edgex, When I purchased my KC backup light kit, my local truck accesories shop had it for $59.99, now they are selling it for $69.99.

CCarrara, Not sure what your wiring problem might be from your discription. Your cab switch can get power from the battery just like the aux back up lights.

I placed a diode inline with the each of the switch lines going to the relay and fused each at 3 amps. Just in case of a problem with either the cab switch or stock back up lights, the other circuit could turn the aux back up lights on. Never had a problem with them.

 

Thanks for the replys.

Yeah, I did power the cab switch from the the same battery lead used to power the relay.

Diode in line with the switches... hmmmm, what does that do? Does that keep the power from going the wrong way down the switch lines? If so, I need that, maybe that's my problem. Because if I turn the cab switch to ON, not only do the new aux backup lights come on, so do the factory backup lights. I know why, just don't know how to stop it from happening. It's because the power from the cab switch going to the relay ends up powering the factory backup lights since they are also connected to the same relay terminal (the switch terminal).

Hmmmm ... sounds like I could either install diodes, and/or install a three way switch in the cab. Should I do both or ...??

Thanks in advance guys!!

 

Below is how I have it now. Two problems with it, 1 the problem stated above, blowing the trucks #5 fuse(backup Lts) when put into reverse, problem #2, the factory backup Lts come on when I switch the toggle switch in cab to turn on the new Aux lights. That would be ok normally, except I installed one of those beeper lights into the factory backup light socket. So when I turn on the Aux lights (just to have some light behind truck...), the beeper is going off.

So how do I fix this? I need to Isolate the fact. lights somehow...?

 

The easiest thing, in reference to your diagram, would be to rewire the switch so it is in-line with the power supply for the aux back up lights, bypassing the factory wiring harness. It sounds like you're simply drawing too many amps with the switch controlling both the factory and the aux back up lights. There should be no need to tie the switch into the factory wiring harness; you've already tapped into the back up circuit when you wired the lights downstream of the aux relay. Hope this helps a bit.

 

The spot in the diagram that references the factory wiring harness is the original factory connection to backup lights. That is not my connection. I just connected to the back of one of the lights so when it's hot, it in turn tells the relay to also turn on the Aux Backup lights.

I should note, the fuse that is blowing is NOT the one in the diagram near the battery. It is the factory fuse, which would be up stream to where it says "To factory harness Backup light circuit.."

Really, what I need is to change the relay to a relay that has two separate (isolated) switched inputs, with one output. Is there such a thing? If so, where do I get it?

Cause then I could separate the cab switch from the factory backup lights power (used as a switch to relay). Either would still turn on the aux lights, but independantly. That would solve the problem with the beepter coming on also....

Ideas?

 

Here is a diagram that I made a while back under a similar topic for switched backup lights, it shows the switch in the cab of the truck, but it could actually be placed any where ( ignore the location IDs )

This one is for a switch, that allows the lights to be on with the backup lamps, off, or on in constat run mode:



The switch type of on-off-on is what gives the off option. You would need to look for this type of switch, if you want to be able to have them off if you want.

Good luck

 

SScully,
THANKS!! That does it. I don't know why I didn't see that (changing switch type...) myself... I was looking at it too deeply, trying to complicate it....

Off to Pep boys for a new lighted on/off/on type switch.