Accessory Power Lead
Accessory Power Lead
Just got done replacing my driver's side interior fuse panel in my 98 5.4 XLT. It seems that all the splicing (blades and add-a-circuit connectors) I did off the fuse panel caused the fuse panel to loosen up some of the connections and caused a pain for about 6 months.
Therefore, I just ordered 2 add-on fuse panels from JC Whitney: 1 for Battery Hot and 1 for ACC Hot. I am going to pull the Battery hot directly off the battery. However, I don't want to cut into the fuse panel wiring harness to steal a lead for the ACC hot.
I can't find anything in the Haynes manual or the Ford Repair CD. Is there a convenient area to steal a lead for ACC Hot that is easily accessible. I would have thought Ford would have points for BATT, ACC, and GND.
Any suggestions welcome........
Thanks,
Jim
Therefore, I just ordered 2 add-on fuse panels from JC Whitney: 1 for Battery Hot and 1 for ACC Hot. I am going to pull the Battery hot directly off the battery. However, I don't want to cut into the fuse panel wiring harness to steal a lead for the ACC hot.
I can't find anything in the Haynes manual or the Ford Repair CD. Is there a convenient area to steal a lead for ACC Hot that is easily accessible. I would have thought Ford would have points for BATT, ACC, and GND.
Any suggestions welcome........
Thanks,
Jim
Jim,
You are going to want to use a fuse connection from the battery, that is run through a relay and the coil on the relay is what powers the accy fuse block.
You don't want to over load any accy circuit, by adding to it.
Either the same or a seperate fused connection from the battery that is connected to one of the of the N.O. contacts on the relay, the other side to the fuse block. The ground side of the relay to ground, and then use a hot in run position lead from either the fuse block or from the ign switch. The one I used is the hot in run position via a fuse. On my 2001 it was from the block under the steering column and a 12 awg wire, red with a black stripe.
Using the inline fuse to operate the coil is not much of a load at all, and will protect the hot in run position ign circuit if something were to happen.
If you run 1 or 2 circuits, depends on how much you are going to load them up in total, and what size wire you are using.
Good luck, let me know if my post does not make sense
You are going to want to use a fuse connection from the battery, that is run through a relay and the coil on the relay is what powers the accy fuse block.
You don't want to over load any accy circuit, by adding to it.
Either the same or a seperate fused connection from the battery that is connected to one of the of the N.O. contacts on the relay, the other side to the fuse block. The ground side of the relay to ground, and then use a hot in run position lead from either the fuse block or from the ign switch. The one I used is the hot in run position via a fuse. On my 2001 it was from the block under the steering column and a 12 awg wire, red with a black stripe.
Using the inline fuse to operate the coil is not much of a load at all, and will protect the hot in run position ign circuit if something were to happen.
If you run 1 or 2 circuits, depends on how much you are going to load them up in total, and what size wire you are using.
Good luck, let me know if my post does not make sense
SSCULLY,
Not quite sure why I need the relay on the always hot circuitry. I am setting up 2 additional fuse panels: 1)always HOT and 2)ACC Hot.
I can run directory from the battery to my mini fuse panel (Number 1 above). If I am not worried about noise or isolation, there should be no problem. Right?
The second mini fuse panel needs to be powered by an ACC Hot only. I think your post was talking about this panel:
|----------|
accessory HOT----| RELAY |-----12V batt
| |
GND ---------------| |-- fuse panel
------------
I think this is what you were describing?
If so, I think we are on the same page. I just need to find that accessory HOT lead that is easily accessible. Not a lot extra wire to play with under there.
Thanks,
Jim
Not quite sure why I need the relay on the always hot circuitry. I am setting up 2 additional fuse panels: 1)always HOT and 2)ACC Hot.
I can run directory from the battery to my mini fuse panel (Number 1 above). If I am not worried about noise or isolation, there should be no problem. Right?
The second mini fuse panel needs to be powered by an ACC Hot only. I think your post was talking about this panel:
|----------|
accessory HOT----| RELAY |-----12V batt
| |
GND ---------------| |-- fuse panel
------------
I think this is what you were describing?
If so, I think we are on the same page. I just need to find that accessory HOT lead that is easily accessible. Not a lot extra wire to play with under there.
Thanks,
Jim
Jim,
Yes that is what I was getting at.
Using the Red with black stripe under the steering colum to activate the relay to power a feed from the battery to the fuse panel that is active in the run positon of the key.
The 12 awg wire under the steering column is the wire that you need to activate the coil on the relay, and put a fuse between the relay and this wire just to be safe.
Look under the dash, you will see the connector block for the ign switch. In 2001 the hot in run position was a Red with a black stripe.
Yes that is what I was getting at.
Using the Red with black stripe under the steering colum to activate the relay to power a feed from the battery to the fuse panel that is active in the run positon of the key.
The 12 awg wire under the steering column is the wire that you need to activate the coil on the relay, and put a fuse between the relay and this wire just to be safe.
Look under the dash, you will see the connector block for the ign switch. In 2001 the hot in run position was a Red with a black stripe.
I am a little confused as to why you didn't just get an OEM Ford Replacement Panel and put a sub-panel on with a relay for all your goodies.... seems like a re-wire to an aftermarket panel is a lot of work when you can just pull off some harnesses and plug in on the OEM panel.
I did replace the the fuse panel with a factory OEM fuse panel, but instead of tapping the new fuse panel with the blade type connectors or the add-a-circuit,
I purchased 2 smaller fuse panels from JC Whitney, each capable of supporting 8 circuits each. I needed one for always HOT and one for ACC HOT. I hope that explains it.
Thanks,
Jim
I purchased 2 smaller fuse panels from JC Whitney, each capable of supporting 8 circuits each. I needed one for always HOT and one for ACC HOT. I hope that explains it.
Thanks,
Jim


