2000 XLT Adding Foglights Options
2000 XLT Adding Foglights Options
I own a 2000 XLT SuperCab without factory fog/driving lights. I recently purchased a set of Hella 450 fog lights and with a little plastic surgery, mounted them in the lower bumper valance. Now comes the decision making time...... do I change the dash panel light switch to the factory fog version and use the harness in place or do I install a new harness and relay strictly for the fogs?
From what I can tell, if I use the factory switch, the fogs will only be on if my low beam headlights are on. I don't want that. I would like to have the fogs working if the parking lamps are on to eliminate the white light from the headlights completely.
Now if I change out the switch do I have to do anything in the fuse panel? There is fuse in location 27 which I assume is currently not used.
Or as an seperate option can I add a separate switch and use the factory harness through the fuse panel?
Anyone try this?
Oswego, IL
2000 XLT SuperCab
4.2L Auto
115K
From what I can tell, if I use the factory switch, the fogs will only be on if my low beam headlights are on. I don't want that. I would like to have the fogs working if the parking lamps are on to eliminate the white light from the headlights completely.
Now if I change out the switch do I have to do anything in the fuse panel? There is fuse in location 27 which I assume is currently not used.
Or as an seperate option can I add a separate switch and use the factory harness through the fuse panel?
Anyone try this?
Oswego, IL
2000 XLT SuperCab
4.2L Auto
115K
Simple and CHEAP!!!
Just tap into the Brown wire on your headlamp switch.. It is the same circuit that flows the juice to the park lamps. So if you want them to be on when your park lamps and/or headlamps are on, this is a likely source for your voltage without anything other than a scotch lock and some wire and connectors!!
Be careful removing your headlamp switch though, Those things break real easily.. Grab a very thin bladed screwdriver and look for the proper places to insert it to release the locking tabs.
Good Luck and let me know the outcome!!!
FordMasterTech
Just tap into the Brown wire on your headlamp switch.. It is the same circuit that flows the juice to the park lamps. So if you want them to be on when your park lamps and/or headlamps are on, this is a likely source for your voltage without anything other than a scotch lock and some wire and connectors!!
Be careful removing your headlamp switch though, Those things break real easily.. Grab a very thin bladed screwdriver and look for the proper places to insert it to release the locking tabs.
Good Luck and let me know the outcome!!!
FordMasterTech
Based on FordMasterTech's tip I wired the switch to the brown lead for the parking lamps. It was easily accessible at the headlamp switch. The headlamp switch simply pops out with a slight twist of a screwdriver. (I discovered this AFTER needlessly removing the surround and it's six screws). The foglights are can now operational whenever the parking lamps are activated, including when the headlamps are lit. The big plus to this is the light alarm will sound if you leave the lamps on upon turning off the truck.
The foglamp switch was mounted in the plastic valance surrounding the upper half of the steering column. I mounted the switch to the left of the column. The switch is grounded below the fuse box. The switched lead goes through the firewall and utilizes the spring clips to run along the upper fire wall to the relay. I mounted the relay near the battery to minimize the length of wire from the terminals to the relay and down to the lights. The lights are each grounded at the lower bumper bolts.
I will try take some photos of the bumper surgery soon.
The foglamp switch was mounted in the plastic valance surrounding the upper half of the steering column. I mounted the switch to the left of the column. The switch is grounded below the fuse box. The switched lead goes through the firewall and utilizes the spring clips to run along the upper fire wall to the relay. I mounted the relay near the battery to minimize the length of wire from the terminals to the relay and down to the lights. The lights are each grounded at the lower bumper bolts.
I will try take some photos of the bumper surgery soon.
First attempt at uploading photo.....
https://www.f150online.com/galleries....cfm?gnum=2734
As soon as I figure out how to add more photos, I will.
https://www.f150online.com/galleries....cfm?gnum=2734
As soon as I figure out how to add more photos, I will.
How much cutting did you have to do? Are the lights actually inset in the valence, or are they mounted on the surface? Looks pretty good either way.
Where did you get the lights?
peace, Dennis
Where did you get the lights?
peace, Dennis
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Ebay of course
I picked up the Hellas on Ebay for $35 used. I could get a new set for about $85.
The layout was more intensive than the drilling and cutting. I actually removed the entire bumper assembly to make sure I had easy access. My first step was to drill a hole 3" directly below the bolting hole I chose the use (there are others) That provided my center. Then I tried to determine where I wanted them horizontally. I measured across the bumper with a string and level to the other side. Marked and drilled starter holes in the upper corners and cut with a fine toothed sabre saw. Traced out the OD of the light and finished cutting.
I made it tight and trimmed the opening as needed. I shimmed the lights with galvanized fender washers and double nuts. The covers are tight in the holes, but thats OK. It will discourage theft.
The lights are mounted right where the valance starts to curve, so about half the light is recessed, and half is not.
I actually picked up an extra valance in case the surgery didn't turn out so well. I will save it for when I sell.
The layout was more intensive than the drilling and cutting. I actually removed the entire bumper assembly to make sure I had easy access. My first step was to drill a hole 3" directly below the bolting hole I chose the use (there are others) That provided my center. Then I tried to determine where I wanted them horizontally. I measured across the bumper with a string and level to the other side. Marked and drilled starter holes in the upper corners and cut with a fine toothed sabre saw. Traced out the OD of the light and finished cutting.
I made it tight and trimmed the opening as needed. I shimmed the lights with galvanized fender washers and double nuts. The covers are tight in the holes, but thats OK. It will discourage theft.
The lights are mounted right where the valance starts to curve, so about half the light is recessed, and half is not.
I actually picked up an extra valance in case the surgery didn't turn out so well. I will save it for when I sell.


