I am going to tap into my parking lights to hook up my fogs. Does anyone know which wire is the constant hot and which one is for the signal? It looks like I have a black (ground), white (not sure), and another dark wire with a stripe(not sure). Between the white one and the dark with a stripe I don't know which one does what. I do not have a volt meter to tell and I don't really want to go cutting wires and finding out the hard way. I just want to run the power for my fogs off of the parking lights. Thanks in advance for any help!

 

If I'm not mistaken, the factory wiring is already there for the fog lights. And all you have to do is get a relay and a headlight switch with the for light position.

 

I saw the factory wires for the fogs, but I just don't want to have to do that much wiring or buy a new headlight switch. This way the fogs will come on with my parking lights and it will be a pretty easy wire job. The fogs are just 55w so there not that strong and should not cause too much of a drain on the light system. Nobody knows which wire is which? anybody?

 

i am not 100% sure but i think it is the brown wire i am at work now i can check when i get off if you do it that way you need to use a relay the parking light wire will not carry all the load.

John

 

je3169 nailed it.

EVTM page 92-1.
Parking lamp is Brown wire.
Black is ground
Left front turn signal is lt green w/ white stripe.
Right front turn signal is White w/ Lt Blue stripe.

Use the brown wire to feed the switch to the relay coil, and you are all set.

There is also a run position hot in the truck cab as well, if you want to take power from the run side of the key, rather then from the parking lamps. Depends on how you want them to work.
Parking lamp is the easiest to get the fog lamsp to work with the autolamp feature if you want that to happen ( depending on the driving lights harness, the PIAA it was this way )

Steve

 

even if I just have one light hooked up to each parking light?

 

It is the same fuse for both.

The wiring harness and the fuse are no wherre near able to carry the load of anything more then the bulbs that are installed.

If you try to direct wire the driving light to the parking light, if it does not blow the fuse straight away, over time you could damage the wiring for the parking lamps in the front.

Get a set of drivng lamps with a wiring harness and relay, and use the power to the relay coil from the parking lamps if you are doing it without a switch.

The relay would have the fused connection to the battery.
This is an example of a relay install for you to use.
https://www.f150online.com/galleries...2028-52917.jpg
The switch source in your case is the parking lamp wire.
The switch is an optional but usually it is installed.

 

SSCULLY has it right.

Never wire directly off your lights. You run the risk of burning up all the wires upstream of the oem lights due to the higher electical demand of the fog lights. A relay provides a direct electrical current from the battery. I got the Hella FF1000 Fog light kit. It came with a prewired harness and fused relay. Very easy to install. I have mine set up so that they can only come on if my headlight switch is turned to at least the parking lamps. I ran a wire from the brown power wire going into the switch down to my fog light switch. That way you dont have to worry about leaving your foglights on, and face it if you need your foglights on you also need your parking lights on. If you have any questions let me know.

 

Ok, the last car I had these on I wired in a lighted switch to the inside center console. I was just thinking if I did it the other way it would be less of a wire job(no coming in thru the firewall). The lights ran off the battery and I just grounded it to the frame. I guess I could do it that way again. I just didn't want to make any holes in the dash.

I just want the fogs to come on with the parking lights without having to put any switches in the cab. So if I ran a wire off the battery or the power dist. box how would I wire them with a relay to come on with the parking lights. Would I run the power and ground to the relay? Then ground the relay and have a wire that taps into the brown wire on the parking lights? I have never used a relay and don't really understand how one works. Can I just buy a 12v relay at Radio Shack?

 

christo,

If you have just the lights, and no harness, go to either Pep Boys or AutoZone and get the relay. I just say today at Pep Boys a Relay with the wire for 9.99.

The diagram in the URL above, for what shows as switch power, and a switch going to pin 85, that is a T Tap on the brown wire of the parking lamp. No switch needed.

The wire everything else as the diagram shows, fused power from the battery to pin 30, ground of the driving lights and the relay to either the battery ground, or to a ground lug on the firewall ( I don't trust using the bumper as a ground myself ) and wire up the driving lights to pin 87.

That is all there is to safe wiring of the driving lights, no switch required ( the parking lamp switch is the switch in the diagram ).

The relay coil draws like .1 of an amp, so that is a safe additional load on the stock wiring harness.
The 10 to 20 amp draw of the driving lamps is on the relay contact and the seperate fuse to the battery.

 

sscully, sounds like you've done this a time or two that is the way i would and have done it. i would also add that i would keep the relay inside under the dash you can find a good ground under there as well the reason i say keep the relay inside is after time if the relay gets wet you will need to replace it if it is inside under the dash you don't have to worry about it getting wet.

John

 

Don't mean to sound stupid, but what is pin 85, 87, and 30?

edit: nevermind I see that it refers to points on the diagram. Thanks for your help! I'll go and get a relay today at Autozone. Pep Boys is too far away.

 

je3169,

Actually my last ruck now has a few months over 8 years on the PIAA relays that came with the set, and no problems yet.

I have a few Bosh 30 amp relays on my motorcycle, and no problems yet with them either.
One on the rear fender, behind the side cover to power the external fuse panel for the assy.
Two behind the farring, one for the upgraded headlight ( Napa LS 6235 and a SilverStar 9003ST bulb ), and the other for the driving lights.

Nothing exactly weather tight besides the side cases and farring pockets on a motorcycle.

Maybe I have just been lucky to date ?

Your way is a 100% sure way of nothing weather related happening to a relay, but christo did not want to take anything through the firewall on the truck.

Also got to be careful of what is ground under the dash. I found out that the metal bracket that the hood release is on, is not ground. I found one, and put in a terminal strip from a electrical panel under the dash, so I can terminate on it no problem now.

As if you can't tell I get a bit carried away doing things

 

sscully I am right there with ya i had a viper alarm installed and i replaced the pin switches that they put in with switches that they use on 02 escorts they have rubber boots on them talk about anel i am a installers worst nightmare the only reason they installed it was becouse of the weather. i use to work for airtouch and started out as a installer we use to use relays for horn alerts it didn't happen alot but every now and then we would have to replace a relay that is why i put them inside.Come to think of it i installed a headlight on my dirtbike last summer and used a relay
and i have had no problems with it.

John