Superchip & Autotap
Superchip & Autotap
Hi,
If I buy Autotap for Windows (from Mike T) will I have to uninstall my Superchip to get accurate readings from the computer? I know that uninstalling the chip is recommended when taking to the dealer. Just think it might be a PITA to have to remove the chip to use the software.
If I buy Autotap for Windows (from Mike T) will I have to uninstall my Superchip to get accurate readings from the computer? I know that uninstalling the chip is recommended when taking to the dealer. Just think it might be a PITA to have to remove the chip to use the software.
Hi Jay,
Actually, how that works is as follows....................
With any performance chip present on the J3 connector, you will not be able to have Autotap (or any other similar diagnostic package) pull up the vehicle's VIN#, and thus you will not be able to access the manufacturer-specific extended parameters.
You *will* be able to get all the OBD-II codes & a readout of many of the powertrain's sensor data in real time, you just won't be able to get to the extended Ford-specific data.
So you'll be able to get fuel trims, for example, and see what the engine's sensors are doing, and you can log all that data if you want to do some accceleration runs & log that data.
The lastest version of Autotap's hardware & software has been vastly improved, 2.03 software & 2.x hardware significantly ups the data transfer rate thru the OBD-II port, so data logging is more useful during acceleration runs, for example. It also sees the second IAT sensor in the supercharged 5.4's & provides an Air/Fuel ratio gauge based on the factory narrow-band O2 sensor's voltage.
If you'd like to go over this in detail so you'll know just exactly what you can and cannot access via Autotap with any performance chip present on the J3 connector (or anything else), please feel free to give us a call as always, Jay.
Actually, how that works is as follows....................
With any performance chip present on the J3 connector, you will not be able to have Autotap (or any other similar diagnostic package) pull up the vehicle's VIN#, and thus you will not be able to access the manufacturer-specific extended parameters.
You *will* be able to get all the OBD-II codes & a readout of many of the powertrain's sensor data in real time, you just won't be able to get to the extended Ford-specific data.
So you'll be able to get fuel trims, for example, and see what the engine's sensors are doing, and you can log all that data if you want to do some accceleration runs & log that data.
The lastest version of Autotap's hardware & software has been vastly improved, 2.03 software & 2.x hardware significantly ups the data transfer rate thru the OBD-II port, so data logging is more useful during acceleration runs, for example. It also sees the second IAT sensor in the supercharged 5.4's & provides an Air/Fuel ratio gauge based on the factory narrow-band O2 sensor's voltage.
If you'd like to go over this in detail so you'll know just exactly what you can and cannot access via Autotap with any performance chip present on the J3 connector (or anything else), please feel free to give us a call as always, Jay.
Thanks Mike... That being the case is it worth the extra $$$ for the Deluxe version? I really don't want to have to pull the chip. What I'm mainly looking for is the ability to read:
1. Engine Coolant Temp.
2. Tranny Temp
3. Air Intage Temp.
4. Air/Fuel Ratio
5. Engine RPM.
The new tranny is going pretty good. I still feel like its shifting early. The shiftpoint remained the same when I put the chip in so I'm not sure what is going on. I really want the software so I can see what RPM the truck is shifting at. I can manually run it up to 5400 when shifting and it seems to perform pretty well. I'm just glad to get the tranny going again.
Also, where do you recommend tapping into the engine coolant.. Recall I bought the Autometer gauge from you and am trying to figure out the best place to install the sender. My options (I think) are 1. Rubber hose from engine block to heater core, 2. T-off of the stock location, 3. tap intake (I say no), and 4. Some plug on the block that is a coolant passage that I have yet to find. What location would you use?
I'll talk to you soon.
1. Engine Coolant Temp.
2. Tranny Temp
3. Air Intage Temp.
4. Air/Fuel Ratio
5. Engine RPM.
The new tranny is going pretty good. I still feel like its shifting early. The shiftpoint remained the same when I put the chip in so I'm not sure what is going on. I really want the software so I can see what RPM the truck is shifting at. I can manually run it up to 5400 when shifting and it seems to perform pretty well. I'm just glad to get the tranny going again.
Also, where do you recommend tapping into the engine coolant.. Recall I bought the Autometer gauge from you and am trying to figure out the best place to install the sender. My options (I think) are 1. Rubber hose from engine block to heater core, 2. T-off of the stock location, 3. tap intake (I say no), and 4. Some plug on the block that is a coolant passage that I have yet to find. What location would you use?
I'll talk to you soon.
F150intally
I cannot add more technical advise to what Mike said, but I have these comments:
I could pull up DTC's with chip in. I have used the Auto Tap on both my 98 F-150 and my 99 Exlorer. Auto Tap also came in very handy when setting the turn on temp when installing the electric fans on my two vehicles. Quite honestly I think I have saved the cost of the software already, since I didn't have to go to the dealer to get the codes read and fixed.
I have those two Fords and my brother-in-law has two Fords, and I am happy with Auto Tap, and I would buy Auto Tap again.
Just one redneck's opinion................
I cannot add more technical advise to what Mike said, but I have these comments:
I could pull up DTC's with chip in. I have used the Auto Tap on both my 98 F-150 and my 99 Exlorer. Auto Tap also came in very handy when setting the turn on temp when installing the electric fans on my two vehicles. Quite honestly I think I have saved the cost of the software already, since I didn't have to go to the dealer to get the codes read and fixed.
I have those two Fords and my brother-in-law has two Fords, and I am happy with Auto Tap, and I would buy Auto Tap again.
Just one redneck's opinion................
Peddler,
which version of the software did you buy? Did you have the version with the extended parameters?
P.S. only high-tech rednecks use software.. LOL
Thanks in advance.
-Jay
which version of the software did you buy? Did you have the version with the extended parameters?
P.S. only high-tech rednecks use software.. LOL
Thanks in advance.
-Jay
Hi Jay,
Yes, you can read those parameters with the chip installed no problem (and more), and you do not need the "full" version to read those specific parameters you listed except for the tranny temperature, if memory serves.
However, even when the limited version will do all you want now, I would still buy the "full" Ford version. We use the "123" version, which handles basically all OBD-II vehicles, not just Ford, & not just GM's, etc., like the other automaker-specific versions, as that is more appliable for what we do.
The bottom line is, most people find there will be a time when they wish they had the full Ford version, in our experience with our custoemrs, it's usually just a question of exactly when you'll need it, not if. So I would, if need be, wait until you can do the full Ford version to pick up Autotap, as you'll own that hardware and software for years.
Peddler1000's comments are an important point, it really doesn't take long for Autotap to pay for itself. It generally costs roughly about $80 at most Ford dealerships to have them do a diagnostic scan, so it only takes a couple-few times for that to happen to have Autotap paid for. When you add up all the other functionality you get from Autotap, it's a bargain we feel.
High-tech redneck........ I like that.
Yes, you can read those parameters with the chip installed no problem (and more), and you do not need the "full" version to read those specific parameters you listed except for the tranny temperature, if memory serves.
However, even when the limited version will do all you want now, I would still buy the "full" Ford version. We use the "123" version, which handles basically all OBD-II vehicles, not just Ford, & not just GM's, etc., like the other automaker-specific versions, as that is more appliable for what we do.
The bottom line is, most people find there will be a time when they wish they had the full Ford version, in our experience with our custoemrs, it's usually just a question of exactly when you'll need it, not if. So I would, if need be, wait until you can do the full Ford version to pick up Autotap, as you'll own that hardware and software for years.
Peddler1000's comments are an important point, it really doesn't take long for Autotap to pay for itself. It generally costs roughly about $80 at most Ford dealerships to have them do a diagnostic scan, so it only takes a couple-few times for that to happen to have Autotap paid for. When you add up all the other functionality you get from Autotap, it's a bargain we feel.
High-tech redneck........ I like that.
Trending Topics
Thanks Mike... money is not really an issue. I just wandered if it was worth considering if I had to pull my chip to take advantage of the extended parameters. You see, with the 4X4 truck, to re-install my chip properly I have to take out the battery and battery mounting pieces. Kind of a lot of work. I think this software will be my next purchase though. Its going to take me a little while to recover from the tranny 
Thanks.
- Jay

Thanks.
- Jay
Hi Jay,
I'm glad you mentioned that, as you do *not* have to go thru all of that to either remove or to reinstall your Superchip after the first time installation. You do *not* have to remove the battery, etc. like you have to in some trucks (especially ORP's & FX4's) to do the first time installation of the Superchip.
For the *initial* installaiton, you have to remove the PCM from the vehicle in order to gain access to cleaning the connector properly, absolutely! But once that is done, you don't ever have to remove the PCM from the vehicle again just to remove or reinstall the Superchip in the future, and I'll explain..............
What you do is simply disconnect the battery, and then go into the cabin and remove the black plastic pressure clip that keeps the PCM held up against it's mounting bracket. Once that pressure clip is slid off (just pull it straight back), then you can easily move the back of the PCM a few inches away from the mounting bracket hardware, easily enough to remove and/or reinstall the Superchip. Just FYI.................
I'm glad you mentioned that, as you do *not* have to go thru all of that to either remove or to reinstall your Superchip after the first time installation. You do *not* have to remove the battery, etc. like you have to in some trucks (especially ORP's & FX4's) to do the first time installation of the Superchip.
For the *initial* installaiton, you have to remove the PCM from the vehicle in order to gain access to cleaning the connector properly, absolutely! But once that is done, you don't ever have to remove the PCM from the vehicle again just to remove or reinstall the Superchip in the future, and I'll explain..............
What you do is simply disconnect the battery, and then go into the cabin and remove the black plastic pressure clip that keeps the PCM held up against it's mounting bracket. Once that pressure clip is slid off (just pull it straight back), then you can easily move the back of the PCM a few inches away from the mounting bracket hardware, easily enough to remove and/or reinstall the Superchip. Just FYI.................
That is awesome to know. I didn't realize that the ECU would move enough (without the black clip) to "Re-tape" the chip back down. That is great news! Thanks for reading up on these posts or I would have never learned that.
Thanks.
- Jay
Thanks.
- Jay
Hi Jay,
We've been using that little "trick" ever since the 1997 F-150 first came out.
You only need to move the back of the PCM 2-3 inches to be able to do all of that, and it sure is a big help & much quicker and easier than removing that heavy battery each time!
Good luck!
We've been using that little "trick" ever since the 1997 F-150 first came out.

You only need to move the back of the PCM 2-3 inches to be able to do all of that, and it sure is a big help & much quicker and easier than removing that heavy battery each time!

Good luck!


