Reburn for a ported (stock) MAF? Mike?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old May 19, 2002 | 10:13 PM
  #1  
98SCREAMER's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 5,116
Likes: 3
From: Houston, by way of every major city in America.
Question Reburn for a ported (stock) MAF? Mike?

My original MAF died the other day, and the dealer gave me back the old one. I'm in the process of eliminating the center post now, then I can just switch out the factory element from the new one. Would it benefit me at all to have the chip reburned after completing this modification? I know it's recommended for the Pro-M and Gran. types, but would it have any effect on a ported stocker? I don't want to lean out the mixture too much, but if it happens, it happens. I can just switch back to the new MAF for a quick fix. I also have the "dreaded" FOU1 that everyone complains about, LOL! If that makes any difference. Thanks for any pre experiment advice.,,,,98
 
Reply
Old May 20, 2002 | 09:00 AM
  #2  
98SCREAMER's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 5,116
Likes: 3
From: Houston, by way of every major city in America.
Exclamation

Mike? Anyone?,,,98
 
Reply
Old May 20, 2002 | 05:24 PM
  #3  
Superchips_Distributor's Avatar
Former Sponsor
Joined: Mar 1998
Posts: 13,385
Likes: 4
From: Virginia
Hi 98Screamer,

No, we shouldn't need to do any program changes for that, as it's not being replaced with an aftermarket unit that we know will lean it out by quite a bit.

We also do not recommend doing that, as the risk of ruining the MAF is too great for the tiny potential power gain. The metal MAF's seem to do better than the plastic units, and I think up thru 1998 you have the aluminum MAF. I still wouldn't do that, so if you haven't yet, don't, is our advice.

At any rate, good luck if you do that, & no, we shouldn't have to change anything in the Superchip program as a result, just let us know if you have any problems.

Good to see you again!
 
Reply
Old May 20, 2002 | 10:08 PM
  #4  
98SCREAMER's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 5,116
Likes: 3
From: Houston, by way of every major city in America.
Cool

Well, it "is" an "extra" MAF, so it shouldn't be too critical if it doesn't work. It is also an aluminum MAF. Are you saying I shouldn't do it because it may harm the engine?,,,,98
 
Reply
Old May 21, 2002 | 07:38 AM
  #5  
LE PEW's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 1,109
Likes: 1
From: Nu Joizey
Post Gutted MAF

FWIW, I did the MAF mod a few years ago but removed the aluminum plate first before actually cutting out the center post. With the plate removed I drove around for about 50 miles and threw no codes so I figured it was safe to go ahead and remove the offending obstruction.

I would recomend you first try removing the plate as well.

If you dont get a check engine light take your time and do a nice job with the cutting tools. I removed the electronic element from the body so as not to trash it.You can folow the cutting with grinding, sanding, wetsanding, and finally steel wool. with the element removed from the body you can wet sand it & dunk it under running water without fear of harming the sensitive stuff.

If it matters to you I also have the aluminum bodied MAF and the TBL2 'puter code and no problems to date.

Good luck with whatever you decide to do.
 

Last edited by LE PEW; May 21, 2002 at 07:45 AM.
Reply
Old May 21, 2002 | 09:55 AM
  #6  
98SCREAMER's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 5,116
Likes: 3
From: Houston, by way of every major city in America.
Thumbs up

Just trying to make it clear that I have two MAF's. The thing that really got me when they gave me back the old MAF, was that there was small oil spot on one of the wires. I tried cleaning it before I hit the dealer, but the light came back on the next day. I can't help but feel that this small spot I missed caused the check engine light to come back on. There may not be a thing wrong with the MAF that I am gutting. If it works, it works At least I'll have a brand new one to throw back in if I get too much detonation, or a CE light.,,,,,98
 
Reply
Old May 26, 2002 | 02:03 PM
  #7  
98SCREAMER's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 5,116
Likes: 3
From: Houston, by way of every major city in America.
Thumbs up

Well, got it finished off at a Car Quest for $15, I cut the post out by hand, and they removed the rest. They smoothed it out with a flap wheel, and it's still a little rough for my taste. I am off to get some wet sanding paper to make it slick. No CE light, and a decent throttle response difference. I did have to swap out to the new element, as the old one caused the light to come on within minutes. All in all, a nice mod for not a lot of money, I haven't noticed any ill effects yet but time will tell.,,,,98


Thanks for the warning Mike!! I believe it worked, and I still have the (old/new) MAF body to throw back in at the first sign of trouble.
 
Reply

Trending Topics

Old May 28, 2002 | 12:20 PM
  #8  
Superchips_Distributor's Avatar
Former Sponsor
Joined: Mar 1998
Posts: 13,385
Likes: 4
From: Virginia
Hi Screamer,

OK, glad to hear you're not having any obvious problems so far.

I would also throw in a fresh set of plugs and then take a look and read each plug after a week or two of running on the modded MAF, to make sure you're not going too lean, etc. You can go a fair bit lean before some vehicles will throw a CE light for a lean condition, so it's a good idea to read your plugs after doing this type of modification. Remember, the MAF is your engine's primary load signal, in addition to "measuring" the volume & density of airflow coming thru the unit.

Good luck!
 
Reply




All times are GMT -4. The time now is 10:33 AM.