When cruising in any gear, if I mash the gas, the truck will stutter and then accelerate normally. I noticed the lower the rpms, the worse the stutter. When I slowly give it gas, it accelerates very nice and smooth. The truck has done this for a while. Can't remember how long, though.
I have 17000mi and have not replaced the fuel filter. I'm assuming it is clogged but I wanted to see if there are other opinions like a dirty MAF or a factory program that needs to go. I noticed this on my 1995 F150 4x4 which had the inline 6, 4.9L and 5spd but I never really cared like I do with my V8 . This is for a 2001 F250 with 5.4V8 and 5spd manual. Any advice is greatly appreciated. I would really like to feel solid acceleration when I punch it instead of this lag and go. Thank you.

 

Hi Thewhiteford,

That behavior certainly isn't normal, you should be able to crack the throttle and have that motor pull strong and immediately.

Just for GP's, anytime there is any kind of driveability issue with a vehicle that is using any kind of performance chip, we *always* recommend pulling the Superchip to see if the same behavior occurs with and without the Superchip. It's also a must in your troubleshooting to make sure that all of the conformal coating has been removed from both sides of the connector where the Superchip attaches, as well as checking inside the slot on the Superchip to make sure no conformal coating that may have remained transferred over onto the Superchip. This way you can not only identify if this problem is related to the Superchip, but also double-check your installation of the Superchip and reseat it when you're thru. This could be just something as simple as just needing to re-seat the Superchip. The point being, check these simple things first anytime any kind of performance chip is installed on a Ford ECU, to make sure you do not have any connection-related issue, or perhaps a problem with the chip itself, etc.

This could be any of a number of things, of course. It could be a fuel filter, with 17K miles on it you can go ahead and change it.

A dirty MAF would usually give other symptoms as well, like a rough idle, etc. However, it's certainly worth giving it a cleaning especially since you use an aftermarket low-restriction type of air filter, just make sure you disconnect the battery first. Use a couple of Q-tips dipped in some rubbing alcohol and give the thin wire (or pair of wires, depending on which MAF you have) a very careful & gentle wiping.

There are any number of things you can check, from EGR to PCV and far more, however, if these few very simple things I've mentioned don't take care of this issue, you have a new vehicle under warranty so I would suggest just getting it into the dealer ASAP and let them do their job. Make sure you remove the Superchip and clear the ECU first, as described in your Performance Products documentation, & give us a call if you have any questions on that.

Good luck & please let us know what you found when you identify the culprit!

 

Wow, Mike. Thank you for the response. As much as I hate to do it, I'll pull the chip and see if that's it first. Then, I'll leave it out until I find the problem, just in case it has to go into the dealership. I'm sure it's something simple. I just don't know if I can go too long without the chip! Thanks again. I'll be sure to post the results.

 

Hi the,

I know, it's no fun driving without the Superchip, & my apologies for asking you to pull it, even if only briefly. It's just that it's always one of the most simple things to look at in troubleshooting a driveability problem on any vehicle that is using a performance chip, so you check it very early on, usually first because it's so easy. Usually it's not related to the chip if it's installed properly, but because it is within the realm of possibility, and it's so easy to do, it's one of the first things to check. Luckily, you can remove it or replace it in about a minute, and then say, another 5 minutes to clear the ECU again, and voila`, you're back to enjoying your truck again.

Best of luck & we look forward to hearing the resolution.

P.S. If you ever feel you're at a brick wall, don't hesitate to call us!

 

I pulled the chip a few weeks ago and found more goop on the factory contacts. So I cleaned every last bit perfectly. I, then, had a chance to drive without the chip. I just couldn't do it. I know, it's pathetic. But I'm soooo addicted to the power. Even tonight, with my bed empty and some cool night air, ZOOOOMMMMM. I can't go without it. Besides I have a gut feeling it's nothing engine related. It starts, idles and revs smooth as silk.
Here's what I discovered. When the roads are wet, during or after a rain, and I perform the same motions of punching the gas....... no stutter. So I took it a step further. Sitting at a red light, when the light turned green, I dropped the clutch and floored it. On a wet surface, crazy wheel spin. That and no more tailgaters . Then on a dry road, crazy wheel hop. Almost to the point I thought the front end was going to catch air. I tried it at different speeds with all the same results. Wet roads and cold tires gave no hesitation, bucking, or wheel hop. Dry roads, it's all there.
Here's what I think. My rear springs are way too soft. The rear of the truck sags big time when fully loaded. Especially for being a SD. I think Ford screwed up and put soft springs in the back for a more comfy ride. And I think that is why they cause the wheel hop I feel when I hit the gas. I know they did this with the 1997 F150. My friend had one and couldn't handle half the weight my 1995 F150 could. And there was a recall on those springs, as well.
So now I need to find a solution. I need a much stiffer rear suspension WITHOUT lifting it. I have a ladder rack that is hard enough to reach even being 6'3". I was thinking about airbags, Hellwig helper springs that bolt on top of the existing spring pack or this shock device from Active Suspension .
The airbags are at the top because I have more control over ride height when loaded. The Active Susp. looks pretty logical, too. Guess we'll just have to wait and see.
Sorry about the long post. This has been going in circles in my head for awhile, gathering more and more inane babblings as I go.
Please let me know what you think of this "wheel hop" theory. Thanks.

 

Hi thewhiteford,

So you obviously found the problem, more conformal coating on teh connector, and it sounds like you've got that taken care of.

The wheel hop issue plagues every 1997 & newer F-150 that gets subjected to clutch-dump starts, and will also happen in higher-powered automatics. JMC put up a good description, and his wheel hop was so bad that it threw off his G-Tech times by seconds, and had the same violent shaking transmit throughout bascially the entire vehicle.

So until you get that taken care of, no more clutch-dump starts! How you take care of that can vary, including the various methods you mentioned there. Traction bars, helper springs & helper devices, replacement springs, etc. are all out there, it's a matter of configuring the vehicle for how it's going to be driven & used. In other words, setting it up for the drag strip, you'd go a certain way, and setting it up for towing, you'd go a different route. You're best bet in handling that is to call the various manufacturers of those parts and talk directly to them telling them what's happenging, and then get their recommendations. Once you've called a few of those companies, you should have a good picture of what to do specifcally, and if not, you can always give us a call.

Have fun,