The Gotts Mod Revisited - For 2004+ Trucks
OK - I've been reading about the "Gotts" approach to a CAI mod long enough that I decided to try it. Here's what I did - and I take no credit at all for any of this, it was just my implementation of the excellent ideas put out by people that came before me.
In the 2004-2008 trucks, the intake snorkel has only a 2" diameter at the end where it goes into the fender well. Other than that, it's a Cold Air Intake - so, the goal is to increase the intake opening. We start with the intake ducting. Remove the hold down screw (red circle) in the picture below using a 10mm socket and pull the snorkel out of the fender wall (red arrow). Once you do that, you can pull the duct away from the filter box. It will make a lot of noise that sounds like something is breaking - just smile and ignore the bad sounds. :) You can also ignore the dirty fender wall in this picture - it just shows my truck is actually used and is not a "Garage Queen". http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/d...inalIntake.jpg Now that you've got the intake duct out, turn it over and you'll see two rectangular "bumps" at each end of the bellows that look like they might be "release tabs". Some people have said they can pry the parts apart here using a screwdriver. I was not able to do this, but I found they sit over raised areas on the inside tube that act sort of like "tire irons" to separate the bellows from the other parts of the ducting if you twist and pull on the part you want to remove. I separated the bellows from the duct using the circled "bump" in the picture below. (Notice I like to work on the tailgate of my truck). :o http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/d...ircledBump.jpg To do this, I put the duct and bellows between my knees and then twisted the snorkel (where I'm holding it with one hand) all the way around, and it comes right off. (I had to use two hands to do this, but in the picture, one hand was holding the camera). http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/d...orkelTwist.jpg Now that the pieces are apart, compare the 2" flared opening of the snorkel that fits inside the fender with the over 3" opening of the duct at the bellows and you see why the engine might have trouble getting enough air at WOT. http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/d...reOpenings.jpg I went to Home Depot and bought a 2 ft length of 3" ABS pipe and a 3" stainless hose clamp. I wanted to make sure my new duct went into the fender as far as the original snorkel, so I marked my new 3" tube with a white line to match the gasket position. http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/d.../WhiteLine.jpg Now we have a complication. The hole in the fender is an oval, about 3 1/8" high by 3 1/2" wide. There's actually a small "lip" inside this oval too and I got rid of that lip with a Dremel grinding wheel. The resultant hole is now closer to 3 1/4" high and 3 1/2" wide. (Again, ignore the dirty fender wall). :o http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/d...FenderHole.jpg The hardest part: I had to reshape the end of my new snorkel tube back to the white line to match the 3 1/4 x 3 1/2 oval opening. I used a "Mouse" sander, pictured here with the end of the tube that I shaped. http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/d...andedShape.jpg (Continued in Part 2) - Jack |
The Gotts Mod Revisited - For 2004+ Trucks (Part 2)
Here's the finished tube, looking straight down the intake end. The outer surface is cut down so it will just fit into the fender opening and is a 3 1/4" x 3 1/2" oval. The inside opening is a true 3" circular intake.
http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/d...ubeOpening.jpg The new snorkel tube will have to be angled slightly from the rest of the intake to fit into the fender properly. (It needs to enter the fender at close to a right angle), so, the other end of the tube was cut at an angle try to match the truck's tube opening angle. The length of the new snorkel on the long side is 10 5/8". The length of the short side is 10 3/8". (It's about the same length now as the original snorkel). The hose clamp will be used to stabilize things. http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/d...ndjaz/CAI1.jpg I put my new snorkel into the fender (at a right angle) and it goes in right up to the line where I stopped shaping it. It's actually through the second hole in the inside of the fender at this point. It fits quite tightly through the opening, so I'm not worried about it getting "warm" engine air. Then, I slipped the bellows down over it. (Hey, I wiped my fender wall off a bit)! http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/d...z/InFender.jpg After the trial fitting, I painted the new snorkel flat black to cover up the ugly scratches and painted the hose clamp too (for "stealth" purposes). So, here we are - the final "All Black" (apologies to the New Zealand Rugby team) version of my homemade CAI: http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/d.../BlackCAI1.jpg I compressed the bellows pretty much to give it some room to expand under engine torque and not pull the tube out of the fender wall. I noticed that earlier, when I had slid the bellows down the tube farther, it had pulled the tube out about 1/2 inch after a hard acceleration (because the engine twists away from the fender wall in this state). Another view: http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/d.../BlackCAI3.jpg It's a fairly neat assembly, and even though the airflow curve is not as "smooth" as I'd like, I think it directs the flow fairly well. Best of all, the total cost was under $8.00. ($0.99 for the hose clamp and about $6.50 for the ABS pipe). And, it's something that is completely reversible if desired. The new snorkel can be taken off and the original put back in and no one will be the wiser. And here's a final view - it looks almost "stock", even though it's anything but stock: http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/d.../BlackCAI2.jpg Now, some final thoughts: Because the cross-sectional area of the snorkel varies with the square of the radius, the new snorkel has an opening that is about 7.07 square inches compared to just 3.14 square inches for the original snorkel. That's over twice the intake capacity! Since the modification does not change the environment of the MAF sensor above the air filter, it will not be "fooled" and there is no danger of the engine running lean. There is no "drone" with this CAI. While some people have recommended disconnecting the battery so the PCM can "relearn" the new system, there's really nothing for it to learn. In fact, here is a quote from Bill Cohron at Power Hungry Performance: "Don't bother with the battery. There's really no reason to mess with it when doing the snorkel mod. All that's really happening is that the modest restriction is being alleviated allowing a little more flow at higher RPM. However, this mod DOES NOT AFFECT the Mass Airflow Sensor and doesn't significantly change AFR like a CAI does. The MAF sensor still accurately reflects the airflow into the engine and the computer handles everything from there." I hope this writeup can be useful if you decide to try it yourself. - Jack |
Sexy hand you got their Mr.Jack!:lol:
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For those of you that are lazy like me you can just remove the tube that run's into the fender well and it add's a noticable increase in power and better throttle response. With this setup my IAT's ran about the same as the outside temperature except when setting still idiling. I also got a jig saw and cut the muffler's off which improved the under hood appearance. http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t...IMG_0005-6.jpg
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LMAO!!! MUFFLERS?! Oh jeez, you brightened my friday!
Originally Posted by 2004Triton5.4
(Post 3622680)
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So is that how you get it off? (in-between your legs and wiggle it back and forth?) :devil:
https://i221.photobucket.com/albums/...orkelTwist.jpg |
nice retake just may try this my self this weakend. thanks jack
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Originally Posted by i.ride.suzuki
(Post 3622728)
LMAO!!! MUFFLERS?! Oh jeez, you brightened my friday!
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Originally Posted by 2004Triton5.4
(Post 3622785)
Everytime I try to describe them I can't think of the correct name so I just call them muffler's. Which is sorta what they are. They help to keep intake noise down. Hopefully it will make your saturday and sunday worthwhile also.:lol:
Here in Arizona, we regularly get above 100 degrees in the Summer. I wanted the actual air inlet as far as possible from the engine compartment. - Jack |
Intake silencer is what I always called it.
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Originally Posted by 2004Triton5.4
(Post 3622785)
Everytime I try to describe them I can't think of the correct name so I just call them muffler's. Which is sorta what they are. They help to keep intake noise down. Hopefully it will make your saturday and sunday worthwhile also.:lol:
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Originally Posted by 8iron
(Post 3623555)
How about "Smooth Airflow Interrupters" or maybe "Power Inhibitors"?
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That's some nice work!
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So JandJ, hows the improvement power/throttle response wise? I might try this some weekend when I have free time.
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Originally Posted by Bluejay
(Post 3623559)
If PHP's dyno runs are believable, then they really do very little to inhibit. Bill removed the snorkle on a stock intake and on the dyno, it performed very close to the same level as an aftermarket CAI.
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