Performance tune and water temp.

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Old Aug 1, 2006 | 06:45 PM
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Performance tune and water temp.

These hot and humid days with a heat index of 114 around Chicago, I found myself in a race.I noticed that my water temp hit 209 degrees based on my scangauge, my temp gauge in the dash was dead center as usual.I hit 105 when I noticed the temp. and backed down.The temp.usaully runs 202 to 206 on the scangauge like I said before the gauge on in the dash stays in the center.2006 v-6 4.2,xcal 2 troyer perf tune.Should I worry about the temp or are these cooling systems able to run hotter because they work under a higher pressure?
 
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Old Aug 1, 2006 | 07:13 PM
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Originally Posted by TSDan
These hot and humid days with a heat index of 114 around Chicago, I found myself in a race.I noticed that my water temp hit 209 degrees based on my scangauge, my temp gauge in the dash was dead center as usual.I hit 105 when I noticed the temp. and backed down.The temp.usaully runs 202 to 206 on the scangauge like I said before the gauge on in the dash stays in the center.2006 v-6 4.2,xcal 2 troyer perf tune.Should I worry about the temp or are these cooling systems able to run hotter because they work under a higher pressure?
Mine stays between 208-210 no matter what. It has gotten to 212 before, but not for long. If you start seeing 220 230 or higher, then you might have a problem.
 
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Old Aug 1, 2006 | 07:49 PM
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I have my electric fans set to turn on at 203 degrees, and the second one at 213 degrees. After numerous, and I do mean numerous dyno runs, we have discovered that my truck makes maximum power right at 202-204 degrees.
I would say you are fine..
 
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Old Aug 1, 2006 | 08:44 PM
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209 is nothing to worry about. You coulda kept the hammer down.

Approacing 220 for a short period (say, a quarter-mile race or something with a very high engine load) isn't really too worrisome IMHO. Prolonged, now that's another story.

Water boils at 212, but anti-freeze and a pressurized cooling system raise the boiling point appreciably. So long as it remain liquid (doesn't boil), the liquid in your cooling system will dissipate heat.

In other words, 209 isn't boiling even with plain water and a non-pressurized cooling system.

My truck runs at 200 - 205 consistently, but rises a bit when I giver her the boot, or when towing in the desert heat.
 
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Old Aug 2, 2006 | 07:18 PM
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Thanks for the replies!Next time i'll keep on the pedal!
 
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Old Aug 3, 2006 | 03:34 PM
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My truk runs at 200+, don't remeber exact number but I am concerned about oil temp! it gets up to 221 at 70+ MPH? don' do any hauling or towing!

Marc Carpenter,

I am looking into e-fans...which brand, part number you installed and can you please share your expereince with us, and installation requiremnts, other parts...etc?, also I read you are fixing them as as add-on. Thanks
 

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Old Aug 3, 2006 | 03:43 PM
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Originally Posted by 2004f1504x4
My truk runs at 200+, don't remeber exact number but I am concerned about oil temp! it gets up to 221 at 70+ MPH? don' do any hauling or towing!
That is fine. 230+ is where you need to start worrying. You want it to get over 212 so that the moisture has a chance to boil out of it.
 
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Old Aug 3, 2006 | 03:55 PM
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Good news, this means I can start setting up my Edge alerts:

EOT 230F
ECT 220F
TFT ???gets up to 200F
IAT ???? ..up to 166F
Fuel ??? almost always 40
torqu control ??almost always zero


Thanks
 
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Old Aug 3, 2006 | 04:02 PM
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Originally Posted by 2004f1504x4
Good news, this means I can start setting up my Edge alerts:

EOT 230F
ECT 220F
TFT ???gets up to 200F
IAT ???? ..up to 166F
Fuel ??? almost always 40
torqu control ??almost always zero


Thanks
I don't know about the '04, but the earlier trucks start to pull out a lot of timing when the IAT hits 115.
 
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Old Aug 3, 2006 | 04:41 PM
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Sorry I am learing this stuff, can you please explain the meaning of timing!, and pulling out a lot of timing...Thanks
 
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Old Aug 3, 2006 | 06:56 PM
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Originally Posted by 2004f1504x4
Sorry I am learing this stuff, can you please explain the meaning of timing!, and pulling out a lot of timing...Thanks
The stock tune will retard the ignition timing when the IATs increase. They do this to combat detonation.
 
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Old Aug 7, 2006 | 04:03 PM
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Hi TSDan,

Those temps are nothing to worry about - in fact, all else being equal, your engine will make it's highest power at about 210 degrees of coolant temperature - hence how the NASCAR stock cars have their cooling systems configured to run at about 210. However, it's nice to be safe rather than sorry!

Also, there is a model in the PCM that takes ECT and infers an oil temperature, and if you exceed that, then under heavy loads it will reduce power in most of these late-model F-150's - though once again, I don't like to depend on that, as not ALL of these trucks have that feature.

As you & others mentioned, you do have a newer design cooling system that operates under much higher pressures which raise the boiling point, so those temps are perfectly OK - in fact, at a certain ECT temperature point, I start adding some additional fueling as well, so I wouldn't worry about it until about 220or so, all else being equal - though normally, unless it's an all-out top speed run, you shouldn't hit more than about 215 or so in the 1/4 mile, for example, *if* that - it just depends on how long it's run at WOT and what the outside ambient temps are.

Good luck!
 
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Old Aug 8, 2006 | 11:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Superchips_Distributor
Hi TSDan,

Those temps are nothing to worry about - in fact, all else being equal, your engine will make it's highest power at about 210 degrees of coolant temperature - hence how the NASCAR stock cars have their cooling systems configured to run at about 210. However, it's nice to be safe rather than sorry!

Also, there is a model in the PCM that takes ECT and infers an oil temperature, and if you exceed that, then under heavy loads it will reduce power in most of these late-model F-150's - though once again, I don't like to depend on that, as not ALL of these trucks have that feature.

As you & others mentioned, you do have a newer design cooling system that operates under much higher pressures which raise the boiling point, so those temps are perfectly OK - in fact, at a certain ECT temperature point, I start adding some additional fueling as well, so I wouldn't worry about it until about 220or so, all else being equal - though normally, unless it's an all-out top speed run, you shouldn't hit more than about 215 or so in the 1/4 mile, for example, *if* that - it just depends on how long it's run at WOT and what the outside ambient temps are.

Good luck!
I'm not too fond of the high temps, myself. I have a 180* thermostat and run a consistent 190* ECT.
Do you think if I went to an OEM thermostat that I'd get any better performance and mileage?
 
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Old Aug 9, 2006 | 01:58 PM
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Well, a 180 t-stat compared to the stock 192 unit is generally going to have a small effect on overall coolant temps, as all the t-stat does is affect at what temp the coolant actually circulates to the radiator - where actual coolant temps have far more to do with the *entire* cooling system, radiator, fuel pump design & flow rate, engine power output, etc.

Now - would you make more power? Well, at the same IAT (intake air temp), you can make a bit more power up to as much as 210 or so ECT - but since you've got the 180 in there, I would not expect to see anything really noticeable by switching to the stock 192, so I'd leave it in there until it's time to flush the cooling system this winter, and then drop in a new 192, perhaps.
 
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Old Aug 9, 2006 | 11:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Superchips_Distributor
Well, a 180 t-stat compared to the stock 192 unit is generally going to have a small effect on overall coolant temps, as all the t-stat does is affect at what temp the coolant actually circulates to the radiator - where actual coolant temps have far more to do with the *entire* cooling system, radiator, fuel pump design & flow rate, engine power output, etc.

Now - would you make more power? Well, at the same IAT (intake air temp), you can make a bit more power up to as much as 210 or so ECT - but since you've got the 180 in there, I would not expect to see anything really noticeable by switching to the stock 192, so I'd leave it in there until it's time to flush the cooling system this winter, and then drop in a new 192, perhaps.
I had put the 180 in because, when I installed my fans and UD pulleys, the engine ran about 2-4 hotter than before. I didn't like that and was worried.
I may change it back sometime in the future.
Thanks for the help.
Jason
 
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