Superchips 1714 and AF1 Intake
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Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 998
Likes: 0
From: Southern Cali
Superchips 1714 and AF1 Intake
Can someone let me know if I can use the superchips 1714 to clear the AF1 intake check engine light?
I had the intake working just fine, then the check engine light came on. Tried disconnecting the negative terminal for about 20 mins then connected it up again. Worked fine for a day, then check engine light came back on.
Thanks for any info!
I had the intake working just fine, then the check engine light came on. Tried disconnecting the negative terminal for about 20 mins then connected it up again. Worked fine for a day, then check engine light came back on.
Thanks for any info!
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 2,803
Likes: 1
From: North Canton, Ohio
Seeing that your truck is an '04, you are more than likely going to require a "Custom Tune" to prevent your present problem from reoccuring. A very large percentage of the 04's come from the factory running lean and the extra air your motor is ingesting with the AF1 is adding to the problem.
The "only" remedy for this issue is custom tuning. Been there, done that.
Good luck.
The "only" remedy for this issue is custom tuning. Been there, done that.
Good luck.
Former Sponsor
Joined: Mar 1998
Posts: 13,385
Likes: 4
From: Virginia
Well yes, you can use it to clear the codes, but what is really required is a *custom* tune to correct the A/F ratios.
See, here's how it works - if you had the 3.0" version of the AF1, it would not require tuning, and does not cause CEL's, etc. But you apparently have the larger 3.25" diameter AF1, and that unit not only gains more power and extends the power band another 500 rpm compared to the 3.0" version, but also requires correction of the MAF TF to get the Air/Fuel ratios back in line. And that cannot be done with the 1714, that can only be done via a custom tune, which we can do for you, if you like.
So the first thing you'll want to do is to remove the AF1 and measure the diameter of the tube at the end where it mates to the rubber boot that attaches to the throttle body (the opposite end from the air filter element). If that is approximately 3.25" instead of approximately 3.0", then you will need to either get another tube to reduce the diameter to just 3.0", or you will need custom tuning to correct this problem.
Ideally, the custom tune would be the route to go, simply because we gain a lot more power in our custom tuning than what you can get from the 1714, as well as it correcting the A/F's and you'd be able to use the 3.25" AF1 with all of it's advantages. The other method would be to get a 3.0" AF1 tube.
I hope that helps,
See, here's how it works - if you had the 3.0" version of the AF1, it would not require tuning, and does not cause CEL's, etc. But you apparently have the larger 3.25" diameter AF1, and that unit not only gains more power and extends the power band another 500 rpm compared to the 3.0" version, but also requires correction of the MAF TF to get the Air/Fuel ratios back in line. And that cannot be done with the 1714, that can only be done via a custom tune, which we can do for you, if you like.
So the first thing you'll want to do is to remove the AF1 and measure the diameter of the tube at the end where it mates to the rubber boot that attaches to the throttle body (the opposite end from the air filter element). If that is approximately 3.25" instead of approximately 3.0", then you will need to either get another tube to reduce the diameter to just 3.0", or you will need custom tuning to correct this problem.
Ideally, the custom tune would be the route to go, simply because we gain a lot more power in our custom tuning than what you can get from the 1714, as well as it correcting the A/F's and you'd be able to use the 3.25" AF1 with all of it's advantages. The other method would be to get a 3.0" AF1 tube.
I hope that helps,
