Notes on Dyno and Datalogging (long)
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Notes on Dyno and Datalogging (long)
I completed my first round of Dyno runs and the datalogging for Mike to tweak my tune. Hopefully the data I got is complete and useful.
I thought I would share with everyone the experience, and a few things I did to make it easier. (and a few OOPS)
FIRST make sure you have the latest datalogging instructions from Troyer Performance. Unfortunately, I received mine just before the new ones were issued, so things were a bit different. Hopefully, they will be ok.
SECOND practice with the datalogging software. Start by setting up a configuration file that will give you the information you need, in the order it is asked for. A call to Mike will help, since some of the parameters have the same names, but give different data streams. Then do a few runs of normal driving, it helps to see how the data behaves under different driving conditions. Sort of a reality check.
THIRD set up each file you need to record i.e. idle, pull 1 tune 1, and record a few seconds of data on them. Doesn't matter if it is at idle in your driveway, you are going to overwrite the file at the dyno when you do the actual run. So when a run is complete, you simply "save as" and select the file appropriate to the run. It will ask if you want to replace the current file. Yes. Then you aren't spending dyno time typing file names.
FOURTH make a simple checklist for each dyno run. List which pull, whether you need to load a new tune, clear the PCM, which gear to set the truck in. Believe me that helped a lot. I also installed a disconnect switch on the Neg battery cable to really simplify resetting the PCM. I also pulled the fuses for my AMP, and other things to prevent them from drawing current during the tune changes.
FIFTH tell the dyno shop what you want, and insist on them providing it. My shop did not give me the tabular print out for A/F ratios. They did give me the entire files for all of my runs, and it was kind of fun to load the DynoJet software and print out my own graphs and tabular information. But for the price you are paying, don't let them be lazy. AND get the file anyway.
To their benefit, they were efficient, and well trained on the dyno and driving on the dyno. No problems with the 3rd gear pulls downshifting.
What benefit did I get from all this? I got 10 pulls (first was set up) done in 1 hour for a cost of $125.
It took the dyno shop 4 days to email me the files.
Last thought...it is really scary sitting in your baby, facing a wall, as the engine screams its way up to 5600 rpm and your trying to concentrate on the datalogging and you can feel all that power wanting to bust loose from the restraints of the dyno!! Talk about a rush! Then you get to do it 8 more times!
I thought I would share with everyone the experience, and a few things I did to make it easier. (and a few OOPS)
FIRST make sure you have the latest datalogging instructions from Troyer Performance. Unfortunately, I received mine just before the new ones were issued, so things were a bit different. Hopefully, they will be ok.
SECOND practice with the datalogging software. Start by setting up a configuration file that will give you the information you need, in the order it is asked for. A call to Mike will help, since some of the parameters have the same names, but give different data streams. Then do a few runs of normal driving, it helps to see how the data behaves under different driving conditions. Sort of a reality check.
THIRD set up each file you need to record i.e. idle, pull 1 tune 1, and record a few seconds of data on them. Doesn't matter if it is at idle in your driveway, you are going to overwrite the file at the dyno when you do the actual run. So when a run is complete, you simply "save as" and select the file appropriate to the run. It will ask if you want to replace the current file. Yes. Then you aren't spending dyno time typing file names.
FOURTH make a simple checklist for each dyno run. List which pull, whether you need to load a new tune, clear the PCM, which gear to set the truck in. Believe me that helped a lot. I also installed a disconnect switch on the Neg battery cable to really simplify resetting the PCM. I also pulled the fuses for my AMP, and other things to prevent them from drawing current during the tune changes.
FIFTH tell the dyno shop what you want, and insist on them providing it. My shop did not give me the tabular print out for A/F ratios. They did give me the entire files for all of my runs, and it was kind of fun to load the DynoJet software and print out my own graphs and tabular information. But for the price you are paying, don't let them be lazy. AND get the file anyway.
To their benefit, they were efficient, and well trained on the dyno and driving on the dyno. No problems with the 3rd gear pulls downshifting.
What benefit did I get from all this? I got 10 pulls (first was set up) done in 1 hour for a cost of $125.
It took the dyno shop 4 days to email me the files.
Last thought...it is really scary sitting in your baby, facing a wall, as the engine screams its way up to 5600 rpm and your trying to concentrate on the datalogging and you can feel all that power wanting to bust loose from the restraints of the dyno!! Talk about a rush! Then you get to do it 8 more times!
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Originally Posted by desparado
I completed my first round of Dyno runs and the datalogging for Mike to tweak my tune. Hopefully the data I got is complete and useful.
I thought I would share with everyone the experience, and a few things I did to make it easier. (and a few OOPS)
FIRST make sure you have the latest datalogging instructions from Troyer Performance. Unfortunately, I received mine just before the new ones were issued, so things were a bit different. Hopefully, they will be ok.
SECOND practice with the datalogging software. Start by setting up a configuration file that will give you the information you need, in the order it is asked for. A call to Mike will help, since some of the parameters have the same names, but give different data streams. Then do a few runs of normal driving, it helps to see how the data behaves under different driving conditions. Sort of a reality check.
THIRD set up each file you need to record i.e. idle, pull 1 tune 1, and record a few seconds of data on them. Doesn't matter if it is at idle in your driveway, you are going to overwrite the file at the dyno when you do the actual run. So when a run is complete, you simply "save as" and select the file appropriate to the run. It will ask if you want to replace the current file. Yes. Then you aren't spending dyno time typing file names.
FOURTH make a simple checklist for each dyno run. List which pull, whether you need to load a new tune, clear the PCM, which gear to set the truck in. Believe me that helped a lot. I also installed a disconnect switch on the Neg battery cable to really simplify resetting the PCM. I also pulled the fuses for my AMP, and other things to prevent them from drawing current during the tune changes.
FIFTH tell the dyno shop what you want, and insist on them providing it. My shop did not give me the tabular print out for A/F ratios. They did give me the entire files for all of my runs, and it was kind of fun to load the DynoJet software and print out my own graphs and tabular information. But for the price you are paying, don't let them be lazy. AND get the file anyway.
To their benefit, they were efficient, and well trained on the dyno and driving on the dyno. No problems with the 3rd gear pulls downshifting.
What benefit did I get from all this? I got 10 pulls (first was set up) done in 1 hour for a cost of $125.
It took the dyno shop 4 days to email me the files.
Last thought...it is really scary sitting in your baby, facing a wall, as the engine screams its way up to 5600 rpm and your trying to concentrate on the datalogging and you can feel all that power wanting to bust loose from the restraints of the dyno!! Talk about a rush! Then you get to do it 8 more times!
I thought I would share with everyone the experience, and a few things I did to make it easier. (and a few OOPS)
FIRST make sure you have the latest datalogging instructions from Troyer Performance. Unfortunately, I received mine just before the new ones were issued, so things were a bit different. Hopefully, they will be ok.
SECOND practice with the datalogging software. Start by setting up a configuration file that will give you the information you need, in the order it is asked for. A call to Mike will help, since some of the parameters have the same names, but give different data streams. Then do a few runs of normal driving, it helps to see how the data behaves under different driving conditions. Sort of a reality check.
THIRD set up each file you need to record i.e. idle, pull 1 tune 1, and record a few seconds of data on them. Doesn't matter if it is at idle in your driveway, you are going to overwrite the file at the dyno when you do the actual run. So when a run is complete, you simply "save as" and select the file appropriate to the run. It will ask if you want to replace the current file. Yes. Then you aren't spending dyno time typing file names.
FOURTH make a simple checklist for each dyno run. List which pull, whether you need to load a new tune, clear the PCM, which gear to set the truck in. Believe me that helped a lot. I also installed a disconnect switch on the Neg battery cable to really simplify resetting the PCM. I also pulled the fuses for my AMP, and other things to prevent them from drawing current during the tune changes.
FIFTH tell the dyno shop what you want, and insist on them providing it. My shop did not give me the tabular print out for A/F ratios. They did give me the entire files for all of my runs, and it was kind of fun to load the DynoJet software and print out my own graphs and tabular information. But for the price you are paying, don't let them be lazy. AND get the file anyway.
To their benefit, they were efficient, and well trained on the dyno and driving on the dyno. No problems with the 3rd gear pulls downshifting.
What benefit did I get from all this? I got 10 pulls (first was set up) done in 1 hour for a cost of $125.
It took the dyno shop 4 days to email me the files.
Last thought...it is really scary sitting in your baby, facing a wall, as the engine screams its way up to 5600 rpm and your trying to concentrate on the datalogging and you can feel all that power wanting to bust loose from the restraints of the dyno!! Talk about a rush! Then you get to do it 8 more times!
Thanks for a very well written, well done post.
Very informative!
.. and, beautiful truck!
Cheers
Grog
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Joined: Mar 1998
Posts: 13,385
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From: Virginia
I agree - that was very well written, great tips for those who have never datalogged before (and even those who HAVE done it before, but who may not have a good routine down pat yet, etc.)
By the way, Desperado - we are actually in the middle of another edit of our datalogging instructions, so if you have any suggestions you might like to submit, please do feel free to email them to us.
It's easy for me to write datalogging instructions so that *I* understand them easily, but we are always trying to refine our datalogging docs for the first-timer, and we're in the midst of doing that again - mainly with regard to adding some additional info for the ETC (electronic Throttle Control) trucks, which is primarily where you find some of the parameters named a bit differently - like having "Pedal Position" instead of "Throttle Position %", and the fact that you need to select both the upper & lower case "Open Loop Flag" to get the Closed or Open Loop status, etc.
By the way, Desperado - we are actually in the middle of another edit of our datalogging instructions, so if you have any suggestions you might like to submit, please do feel free to email them to us.
It's easy for me to write datalogging instructions so that *I* understand them easily, but we are always trying to refine our datalogging docs for the first-timer, and we're in the midst of doing that again - mainly with regard to adding some additional info for the ETC (electronic Throttle Control) trucks, which is primarily where you find some of the parameters named a bit differently - like having "Pedal Position" instead of "Throttle Position %", and the fact that you need to select both the upper & lower case "Open Loop Flag" to get the Closed or Open Loop status, etc.
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From: SoCal & Lake Havasu, AZ
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From: Florida Panhandle
Originally Posted by desparado
Frito 
It is Tuning Technologies in Colton. Here is a link to them:clicky
05SilverFX4: Here is one. I made almost 300 hp at the rear. 4WD sucks a lot of power. This is just a start.
It is Tuning Technologies in Colton. Here is a link to them:clicky 05SilverFX4: Here is one. I made almost 300 hp at the rear. 4WD sucks a lot of power. This is just a start.
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Former Sponsor
Joined: Mar 1998
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From: Virginia
The dyno graphs are almost meaningless to us, all we look at is the *shape* of the power curve - what really matters to us is the tabular data, meaning where they give you sheets with 4 columns of just straight test, with Engine rpm every 100 rpm, as well as HP, Torque, and the A/F ratio every 100 rpm - that, combined with the XCalibrator 2 datalog files done as per our docs, are what we want to see, and what we tune from.
getting almost 300 Hp at the rear wheels on the initial baseline tune is very nice - and as another poster mentioned, with those centrifugal blowers, they will keep making power the higher you spin it - but we have to keep the rpms in check with the weakest link in the powertrain, which is the stock torque converter, as was very correctly pointed out.
Thanks for all the posts, & we'll enjoy reviewing the data!
getting almost 300 Hp at the rear wheels on the initial baseline tune is very nice - and as another poster mentioned, with those centrifugal blowers, they will keep making power the higher you spin it - but we have to keep the rpms in check with the weakest link in the powertrain, which is the stock torque converter, as was very correctly pointed out.
Thanks for all the posts, & we'll enjoy reviewing the data!