XCal2 coming soon.
XCal2 coming soon.
Just thought I would give an update on my XCal2, since this forum has been strangely quiet today.
My sheets went in on 10-12. I called and was told it may go out this week, but most likely mid next week. So, you might use that as a reference point for your order, keeping in mind Mike was gone a week at SEMA.
So, I will soon get the kick I need
Last edited by desparado; Nov 18, 2005 at 11:11 AM.
I ordered mine on 10-10, and they shipped it out on Monday 11-14, and its supposed to arrive tomorrow 11-18. I can't wait to start using that puppy
.
So yours should be headed your way pretty soon.
.So yours should be headed your way pretty soon.
Sent my paperwork back 10/25 so I guess I still have a couple of weeks to go. Been only getting 1/4-1/2 tank of gas at a time lately so I can fill it up with 93 octane and download the perf tune the day it arrives! Thanks for the timeframe reference..
I have not put anything but 93 octane since I sent my papers in on 11/11. Yeah I still have a little time.
They sell 93 octane here on Tuesdays for the price of 87 so I just started filling up every Tues. My luck after years of "Super Tuesday" as soon as I get my tuner they will quit running these specials.
Oh well I figure it is only 4 or 5 bucks a tank difference.
My Truck
https://www.f150online.com/galleries....cfm?gnum=6311
They sell 93 octane here on Tuesdays for the price of 87 so I just started filling up every Tues. My luck after years of "Super Tuesday" as soon as I get my tuner they will quit running these specials.
Oh well I figure it is only 4 or 5 bucks a tank difference.My Truck
https://www.f150online.com/galleries....cfm?gnum=6311
some pertinent info
Originally Posted by Superchips_Distributor
(Snip
By the way - on the subject of fuels & energy content - higher octane fuel does not automatically have "less energy." On the other hand, it is also false that higher octane premium fuels will always automatically have a *higher* energy content than "regular" fuels, as some assume (and as some oil companies have advertised/marketed) - more often than not, when there is a difference, it's usually in favor of the higher octane fuel. There is not any kind of "rule-of thumb" *either* way.
When dealing with *quality* fuels, the actual BTU content per gallon (or per lb.) of fuel usually does not vary much regardless of octane (in the 87-100 octane range, R+M/2). The actual energy content of gasoline is expressed by the oil company/refiner in terms of the number of BTU's per gallon - say, 110,000 BTU's per gallon, or 98,000 BTU's per gallon, etc. - and that is not "automatically" increased or decreased (all else being equal) based solely on the octane rating.
Another point that comes up from time to time regarding fuels & higher octanes is the burn rate - once ignited, the flame front propagates itself across the combustion chamber at roughly the same speed regardless of octane (again, when we're talking about fuels in the 87-100 octane range R+M/2), generally speaking - but getting it *LIT* - actually INITIATING the burn of the A/F mixture takes more time - both in real time and in degrees of crankshaft rotation, as octane rating goes up. This is *precisely* why it's generally considered close to a waste of money to use more octane than the motor is tuned for, more often than not - and I'd be the first to say not to bother using more octane than the motor is tuned for, I do agree with you on that, certainly. Using significantly more octane than the engine is tuned for will actually *reduce* power and fuel mileage, and can also cause MIL's, etc. just as the owners manuals for most of these vehicles mentions.
With higher octane, it's not just that we can make more power & mpg *if* we add timing - proper tuning dictates that we *must* add more timing to the motor to compensate for now much longer it takes to *initiate* the burn of the higher octane A/F mixture. The spark plug needs to get it's current with the piston further down the bore (BTDC) so that peak cylinder pressure still occurs with the piston the same approximate number of degrees *down* the bore (ATDC) - otherwise the engine doesn't make the power it should, and won't get the fuel economy it should, either - this is why most of these vehicles owners manuals specifically instructs *not* to use premium gas, as they are originally tuned for 87 octane from the factory.
In tuning, the BTU content ("energy") of the fuel makes every bit as much difference, if not more, than just it's octane rating. A low energy 93 octane fuel can be out-performed by a higher-energy 92 octane fuel, for example. Or take methanol-based fuels (far different from gasoline) - now they have a *very* high octane rating, but have only about 50%-70% of the BTU content per gallon of gasoline.
Just some quick general FYI...................
By the way - on the subject of fuels & energy content - higher octane fuel does not automatically have "less energy." On the other hand, it is also false that higher octane premium fuels will always automatically have a *higher* energy content than "regular" fuels, as some assume (and as some oil companies have advertised/marketed) - more often than not, when there is a difference, it's usually in favor of the higher octane fuel. There is not any kind of "rule-of thumb" *either* way.
When dealing with *quality* fuels, the actual BTU content per gallon (or per lb.) of fuel usually does not vary much regardless of octane (in the 87-100 octane range, R+M/2). The actual energy content of gasoline is expressed by the oil company/refiner in terms of the number of BTU's per gallon - say, 110,000 BTU's per gallon, or 98,000 BTU's per gallon, etc. - and that is not "automatically" increased or decreased (all else being equal) based solely on the octane rating.
Another point that comes up from time to time regarding fuels & higher octanes is the burn rate - once ignited, the flame front propagates itself across the combustion chamber at roughly the same speed regardless of octane (again, when we're talking about fuels in the 87-100 octane range R+M/2), generally speaking - but getting it *LIT* - actually INITIATING the burn of the A/F mixture takes more time - both in real time and in degrees of crankshaft rotation, as octane rating goes up. This is *precisely* why it's generally considered close to a waste of money to use more octane than the motor is tuned for, more often than not - and I'd be the first to say not to bother using more octane than the motor is tuned for, I do agree with you on that, certainly. Using significantly more octane than the engine is tuned for will actually *reduce* power and fuel mileage, and can also cause MIL's, etc. just as the owners manuals for most of these vehicles mentions.
With higher octane, it's not just that we can make more power & mpg *if* we add timing - proper tuning dictates that we *must* add more timing to the motor to compensate for now much longer it takes to *initiate* the burn of the higher octane A/F mixture. The spark plug needs to get it's current with the piston further down the bore (BTDC) so that peak cylinder pressure still occurs with the piston the same approximate number of degrees *down* the bore (ATDC) - otherwise the engine doesn't make the power it should, and won't get the fuel economy it should, either - this is why most of these vehicles owners manuals specifically instructs *not* to use premium gas, as they are originally tuned for 87 octane from the factory.
In tuning, the BTU content ("energy") of the fuel makes every bit as much difference, if not more, than just it's octane rating. A low energy 93 octane fuel can be out-performed by a higher-energy 92 octane fuel, for example. Or take methanol-based fuels (far different from gasoline) - now they have a *very* high octane rating, but have only about 50%-70% of the BTU content per gallon of gasoline.
Just some quick general FYI...................

Thanks for the info jpdadeo. Good stuff. I am not trying to make a rocket out of my truck. I just want it to perform a little better. I was quick to point out that I generally go with the "cheapest brand" when I filled out my papers. While on the subject of fuel. I ride 2 stroke dirt bikes. I mix my fuel 40 parts fuel to one part 2 stroke oil. I don't like to leave fuel in my bikes. Would there be any harm if I dumped say a gallon of premix 40:1 on top of a full tank in my truck?
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I would not do it. Two reasons: 02 Sensors and Catalytic Converters.
I used to do that with my boat. Burned the extra gas in my 71 Bronco. But they did not have ANY of the modern emissions controls.
I used to do that with my boat. Burned the extra gas in my 71 Bronco. But they did not have ANY of the modern emissions controls.
Mike called me today. For those who are considering ordering from Troyer, this may help your decision. He called to go over the info on my data sheets and to discuss MY truck and MY needs. That is exceptional service. I believe he is the premier tuner of Ford F150s, but I KNOW that his business provides premier customer service and personal attention.
Thanks Mike for giving me the peace of mind that you are going to tune my truck to not only give me great performance, but also the tune will be safe for my particular supercharged truck. That was what I was looking for to begin with, as I learned the dangers inherent in a FMU controlled fuel system. To those who think you just want to sell them stuff, I can attest that is not true. You could have told me that my booster pump would not be satisfactory, and then sold me a new in-tank pump. I would have bought it. Instead, you said it may be a problem; let's datalog first, and if it is an issue we need to address it. Thanks for that small honest appraisal. That is what I looked for in a tuner, and that is what I found!
Thanks Mike for giving me the peace of mind that you are going to tune my truck to not only give me great performance, but also the tune will be safe for my particular supercharged truck. That was what I was looking for to begin with, as I learned the dangers inherent in a FMU controlled fuel system. To those who think you just want to sell them stuff, I can attest that is not true. You could have told me that my booster pump would not be satisfactory, and then sold me a new in-tank pump. I would have bought it. Instead, you said it may be a problem; let's datalog first, and if it is an issue we need to address it. Thanks for that small honest appraisal. That is what I looked for in a tuner, and that is what I found!
I don’t know if one gallon of 40:1 added to 25 to 28gal would be a problem or not; it would be diluted quite a bit;
Originally Posted by BLYOTH
It is not the $$$ that I am worried about it is the enviroment. Do you know of any where that you can legally dump a gallon or two of pre-mix?
Dispose of it the way God intended!


