I'm rolling the dice and going to let this play out in my engine until they need to be replaced. I don't have the tools to replace them myself and I'd hate for something to go wrong while I was doing it myself and then be really screwed. If Ford says they'll last till 100K then I'll be fine with ignorance for the next 6 years.

 

Check it out, only 28K on these babies; they look sick. The two plugs that have the black residue on them are the ones Quintin pulled last week to get a look see of this potential problem brewing and reinstalled them with a coating of dielectric grease, but check out the rust. By the time 100K rolls around (another 72K for the plugs pictured) these plugs ain’t coming out easy, that’s for sure.

 

Remember that it's not the rust on the extensions that causes them to be really hard to get out - look at the *threads* themselves, *that* is what the cylinder head grips mostly, and that is where most of the problem lies.

The rusting is simply the result of combustion chamber condensation (water) attacking the alloy used in those plug extensions - and that does contribute a little bit to the squeaking the first couple of turns. And of course, by claiming a 100K mile spark plug life (NO spark plug should EVER be allowed to stay in for that length of time), they'll get away with it for a loooonnngggg time.

It's a matter of the plugs being installed too tightly by the robots, and not having proper anti-seize put on the threads themselves that makes them hard to get out. The rust might contribute to a little bit of the squeaking sound the first turn or two, but it's really the threads that are being gripped.

And the *ONLY* place any dielectric grease belongs is in the end of the coil pack that connects to the top of the spark plug - nowhere else.

Just FYI, gang......

 

tschaid had 68,000 miles on his 04 Lariat and all eight plugs broke off below the threads / insert stayed in the head

By the plugs being installed too tightly and not having proper anti-seize put on the threads they break below the threads?

 

I read about this problem on one of the tech forms that I am on. There is a carbon build up problem with the design. The carbon wedges in-between the plug, at the extended tip below the threads, and the plug hole. The buildup is so great that the techs are having a hell of a time getting the plugs out. It would not surprise me that the plugs are in fact breaking off below the threaded part. The only cure is to remove the head and pound out the tip. Preventative maintenance would be to pull the plugs more often, maybe every 25,000 miles and clean. I would look into tapping the hole all the way down and using a regular plug.

JMC

 

I posted a diagram in the main thread about this. Here is the link to that post: Spark Plug diagram.

 

So if Ford techs recognize this as a problem, then shouldn't there be a TSB out soon to fix this? Or just an extended warranty to cover spark plugs till replacement is deemed neccessary?

 

I hear you Duke! I am afraid to take mine out and apply anti seize for fear that I might break one off and have to have the heads pulled now instead of at 100,000 miles.

 

I don’t see an extended warranty being given on spark plugs since they’re not covered in the first place. Ford says they’ll last for 100K but there’s no warranty on them. Best get them out at 30K or so, clean and reinstall (or replace) and use anti seize. I’m waiting on UPS right now

 

I dont agree that these heads are designed for a regular plug even if you tap the hole all the way down. I see the extension on the plug what is going to take that extensions place when you tap the hole all the way down and install a regular plug

 

What JMC is saying about the plug break problem is that anti-sieze won't fix it because the carbon build up is below the threads. So we have to use anti sieze to ensure we can remove the plugs every 20-25k miles to clean off the carbon build up (or just replace the plugs that often).

 

Mine arrive tomorrow, got the socket today. Have 22,500 on the OD and hope mine come out ok. I'll post the results after the weekend.

 

I should have been more explicit and written; bore out the plug hole so a regular plug will fit past where the seat is now and then tap the lower part for 7 or 8 threads.

JMC

 

Wouldn’t you have to have the heads off and on the workbench to do that?

 

Just curious, what plug socket did you get? I got this one coming tomorrow via UPS and hopefully the plugs will be coming soon too.

FORD F-150 SPARK PLUG SOCKET

*EDIT*

Another question * what is the optimal circumstance to change the plugs? Warm engine? Totally cold engine? What about outside temperature effecting the process? With all the hype about these babies possibly snapping every little advantage will be useful. Another question * what about anti-seize on the insert? Quintin put it on his but input on this would be appreciated