Ordered me a new little toy this morning from Troyer to see just how well my truck is performing with 1714 and other mods

 

Hi Grunt,

Glad to see you taking an interest in measuring & tracking the performance of your truck - excellent! This is something many people don't bother to do, using instead a method that just doesn't work - seat of the pants - that doesn’t work in heavy vehicles, especially trucks & SUV's.

The G-Tech unit will give you a lot of great info. One thing I don't really pay attention to are the raw power numbers, as it's not a substitute for a good eddy-current dyno, but the 0-60 acceleration times and the 1/8 mile & 1/4 mile performance spec features are invaluable.

One thing to remember is that you will see significant variances in acceleration times based on weather - temperature, humidity and barometric pressure will make significant differences in how much power the motor makes at any given time, so any time you do your 0-60 or 1/4 mile times, etc. with the unit, please also record what the temperature, humidity & baro pressure was as well - you can easily get that from the Weather Channel (on TV or their web site). record the atmospheric data (temp, humid & baro) each time you use the Gtech to give you a good idea for just how much of an effect the weather has. For example, in summertime the truck will slow down, while in cooler weather it'll be noticeably quicker - we all know that. But what a lot of people aren't aware of is just a 5-8 degree difference in temperature, or a 15% difference in humidity (which *really* effects the ignition's system’s ability to cut the ion path) can have on performance. Just some FYI stuff for you................

Congrats on your GTech & have fun!

 

some more FYI


RWH will read lower than a dyno due to wind resistance figure 3% or so.

MPH in the 1/4 will read higher than a track measurement because the G-Tech gets the speed at the end of the quarter whereas the track averages your speed over the last 60 ft or so.

 

Thanks for the info Guys And mike i ll be calling eventually to get my mods lined out for my truck... Just built a porch with hotub so my funds will be short for a little bit but im lookin to add E fan and Ignition Upgrde, underpully's and eventualy supercharger! But trying to talk everyone into just giving me cash for xmas so i can mod away


Quick Question about the 1714 just got my new 33x1350x18 tires and do i need to measure it after mounted or just go by its size when runnin the 91 octane prog? and is it hurting me runnin 93 plus a bottle of 104 to every tank?



Thanks for everything,
Grunt

 

Thanks for the great info! Will be very helpful when it stop raining here! lol

 

Hi Grunt,

Measure the actual tire height with the tire mounted on the rim & fully inflated.

I do not advise using any kind of octane booster - the few that actually work generally leave pink, red & even purple-ish deposits on the spark plugs, O2 sensors, etc., which can cause a lean drift - so don't use octane boosters unless your only other choice is WALKING, is my advice. If you have used octane booster (and it sounds like you have used the 104 brand of octane booster), then I would pull the 2 upstream O2 sensors and replace them just to be safe. Yeah, we know, all the octane booster bottles say "safe for O2's & cats," but we've seen the deposits many of them leave behind. Don't bother replacing the 2 other downstream O2 sensors (which will be *after* the 1st catalytic converter on each side of the exhaust), as they have nothing to do with A/F ratio feedback control - just replace the 2 upstream O2's, which will be located BEFORE the exhaust reaches the first catalytic converter on each side of the engine's exhaust. Use Bosch brand O2's like Ford uses, and buy them from an auto parts store, as you'll pay about half the dealership price. Make sure you buy UPSTREAM O2's, as the upstream O2's and downstream O2's are different units - upstream is sometimes also called the "front" O2 sensor, and downstream is sometimes called the "rear" O2 sensor.

Now if you only used octane booster once, and didn't use much of it, then you'll probably be OK - but if you have used any significant amount of octane boost, then I'd replace the upstream O2's. We've seen these 3-valve 5.4 motors run as lean as 19:1 A/F and not throw a SES light on the dash, so replacing the O2's is the best way to insure no lean drift from deposits on the O2's.

Now if you were using some actual 100 octane unleaded racing fuel, that will not hurt the O2's - you could add a little bit to bring the octane up, but don't raise the octane up higher than 94 octane or you can actually start to lose power. Octane blending using finished fuels is linear, by the way - I..E., 10 gallons of 90 octane added to 10 gallons of 100 octane = 20 gallons of 95 octane.

There is only 1 fuel "additive" that we approve of, and that is Torco's unleaded "accelerator" - that is a race fuel concentrate, and using it in the proper amount does result in a nice fuel formulation. But again, anything over about 93-94 octane is a waste using either the 1714 or the 1715 Micro Tuners, as they are designed for 91 octane in their premium gas tunes so they can be used out West, where octanes are lower for premium fuels.

Last - jstang made some very good points (as he always does) - I agree, I don't pay attention to the calculated horsepower numbers from the GTech, or to the 1/4 mile trap speeds - and the GTech's documentation goes over this. In actual drag racing at the track, you have 3 lights at the top end, normally spaced at 66 ft. intervals - the first and last are the MPH lights, 132 ft apart, and at the drag strip they simply measure how much time it took the vehicle to travel that 132 ft. and so and your trap speed is *averaged* over that distance at the drag strip. Whereas the GTech gives you the speed at that precise distance of 1320 ft. (1/4 mile) - so as jstang said, the GTech will read higher trap speeds than what you'll actually see at the track.

Have fun!

 

Thanks For the info on the Fuel Additives Mike, i ve only used half a can in one tank on this new truck... but i have used the 104 Brand Heavely In my Previous Vechiles ( 00 Lighting, 03 Mach I, and other various 4-wheel drives) Another route i sometimes go is to use Cam II gasoline its (135) octane and i mix it 1/4 to 3/4 Premium (93)


Btw Im Really Enjoying this Gtech Meter lots of intresting info

 

Hi Grunt,

I like the VP racing fuels for blending - I haven't played with CAM2 in a long time, so I don't have good current info on their results.

Overall, I prefer to blend using an ultra-high octane unleaded race fuel added to 91-94 octane pump premium, to give a good formulation. And of course, for concentrates, Torco's unleaded accelerator works very well.

Glad you're enjoying the GTech!

 

just to throw something out there regarding octane boosting. Xylene and toulene are great octane boosters, assuming you can get the stuff cheap enough in your area. These are the same additives that are in your gas already btw so they are not going to hurt your engine provided you dont over do it. Been doing it for quite a few with the GN's as well as many other engines.

Dan

 

i second dan's comments!

 

A little-known fact is that pump premiums generally contain over 40% toluene by volume already - adding a bit more will raise octane - but as Dan said, just don't go overboard with it.

 

unless you are running a te 72,extra injector and 20lbs of boost!-hahaha

 

time for water,alcohol, or propane injection at that point. Screw additives.

Dan

 

What about additives with achohol and or methanol??? Are these bad?

 

if ur homebrewing with alcohol you have to be careful. Alcohol in higher concentrations is quite corrosive. There have been claims that it gums up injectors as well. If your buying the octance crap from pepboys your only raising the octane a few points(tenths) so it doesnt really matter anyways. Alcohol is good if you wanna get a car to pass emissions tho, but thats another story.

Dan