I did notice you are running 3:55's.Most Z71s come with 3:75's, this can acount for the differance. I have 3:55's in my y2k, my brother has 3:75's in his y01k he does an admeral job of staying with the chevy. Mine before the chip and airraid could not touch them, even the jeep's would dust me. So if you two are matched mod for mod, then the gears must be the problem. One more thing to remember if mod for mod, then it is horse power to horse power also with the chevy 35 hp ahead.

 

It's better then mine 16.78
and I have a 3.73


------------------
99 XLT SC 4x4 STYLESIDE ORP 5.4,AUTO & 3.73 POSI
MED. TOREADOR RED
EXTANG TONEAU,BED MAT,
K&N FILTER & WOOD DASH KIT

 

Hey, I am with Benny on this one. I think that the gears are the problem. 3:55s kill your low end. My dad has a stock 96 z-71, and my Friend has a '01 SCrew with the 5.4, true duals and an Airaid. My dads Chevy will leave the Ford. They have about the same HP, just the Chevy has the 3:73s. I have a Bronco with 4:10s and can get the jump on both of them. So gears has alot to do with your situation

 

HI!... MANX!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Where the hell have you been boy? Hav'nt seen a post from you for a very long time. Welcome back. Hey are you going to attend our APRIL 14TH "MILAN MEET" this year? Did you ever end up getting that car you were telling me about before?

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NEAL " THE H.P FREAK" E-MAIL :nnewman@sympatico.ca
'99' F-150 XLT SPORT, oxford white, reg cab shortbox stepside,5.4, auto, 4.10L.S, captain's chairs, bedliner, GTS carbon fiber headlight covers, ***** CEPECK clear halogen driving lights, GTS slotted tailight covers (painted oxford white), fiberglass smooth wiper cowl (painted OXFORD WHITE), FORD locking lug nuts, tinted windows,true duel exhaust with 2.5 inch mandrel bent pipes and FLOWMASTER 3 chamber mufflers with 3' tailpipes exiting before the rear wheel like the LIGHTNING, HELLWIG rear stabalizer bar, 3 AUTOMETER guage pods, filled with tranny temp, engine temp, and oil preasure AUTOMETER "PHANTOM" guages,custom fabricated air intake trac and huge K/N filter, TPS mod, BELLTECH 2-inch rear drop, custom programed SUPERCHIP, BAUMANN ENGINEERING shift kit (on stage 5 setting)BYPASS CLUTCH CONTROL VALVE/PREASURE REGULATOR VALVE, ASP POWER PULLEYS, custom tig welded and ported JBA "JET BLACK coated headers, twin DERALE 16 INCH ELECTRIC FANS, PERMA COOL 14"/10" tranny cooler with 10" electric fan, custom ported (STOCK) throttle body, custom digital air intake temp sensor, custom ported TB intake elbow, relocated ATS.


FUTURE MODS : FORD SVT 24LB INJECTORS, CUSTOM SUPERCHIP FLIP-CHIP, BBK 75MM THROTTLE BODY, 80MM PRO-M MASS AIR METER, AADI F1 RAM AIR HOOD WITH CUSTOM FABRICATED RAM AIR SET-UP, CAL-TRAC TRACTION BARS, EXTRUDE HONED INTAKE MANIFOLD, SHM CUSTOM FUEL RAILS, SHM "RACE WATER PUMP, 90/10 FRONT CE SHOCKS, 70/30 REAR CE SHOCKS, BELL TECH 2/4 DROP, EXPEDITION CENTER CONSOLE, HARLEY DAVISON F-150, LOWER FRONT VALANCE (painted oxford white) and a KENNE BELL BLOWZILLA SUPERCHARGER.

ESTIMATED H.P TO DATE : 330H.P / 425ft/lbs of torque.

CURRENT PERFORMANCE : 1/4 MILE - 14.53E.T * MPH - 93.00 * 0-60MPH - 5.8 * 1/8 MILE - 9.2 * 60 FT - 2.0

OTHER TOYS : "83" PRO STREET FORD RANGER : 351-w stroked to 408c.i 625H.P (natural), 875H.P with 250H.P "BIG SHOT" N.O.S kit, tubbed (crome moly tubing), 12 point chrome moly roll cage, 4-link with coil overs, MUSTANG II front suspension, c-4 tranny (race prepped), 4000rpm stall converter(8 INCH), 3" chrome moly driveshaft,AUTOMETER guages, 15.50 MICKEY THOMPSON rear tires, 4" M/T front tires, CENTERLINE CON-VO PRO rims, fiberglass hood - bumper - prostock hood scoop, wishbone trac-link, two chrome moly driveshaft loops, 16 gallon RCI fuel cell,etc

 

as usual, i can count on you guys for suggestions. Before anything, i want to thank Neal and Mike T for their very informative posts and of course, the rest of you who responded (every post counts). now i feel i am ready to beat my previous time. i had suspicions that manually shifting killed my time. i will post soon as i get a chance to run my truck again. just one more question though, would adding a couple of gallons of racing fuel help at all? it is about 5.50/gal and i think it is about 114 octane. mix that with a quarter tank of 92 octane and it should be good? my other friend who has a 99 f250 v10 and ofcourse a Superchip that beat the chevy (f250-15.47 chevy-15.53) put a couple of gallons of racing fuel and he said that that helped him run this good. i tend to believe him since he is a shop foreman at the Ford dealer we work at. (i run the alarm/stereo department).

3.73 gears might be out of question since it will cost me $370 installed, whereas getting a shift kit installed will only cost $200 installed. any ideas on which one might benefit me more?

------------------
2000 EXPEDITION 4.6 3.31 Rear, AIRAID Fipk with Poweraid Spacer, UltraFlow muffler, 82 mm Mass Air Flow Sensor housing w/ stock sensor, 6.8 inch TV with tuner/VCP, Full alarm and Auto-Start, Daytime Running Lights

New Addition:

2001 F150 SUPERCAB 5.4L 3.55 LS, Airaid FIPK, 82 mm MAF sensor billet aluminum housing w/ stock sensor, Full alarm and auto-start, 50 series 3 chamber 3inch in/out Deltaflow Flowmaster
Swept Side style, Beltech 2 inch rear shackles, SUPERCHIP, billet grille, Lariat wheels and tires (275/60/17), Billet antenna by TRENDZ.

COMING SOON:
pulleys, remove cats, 2 inch drop all around.

 

the ford makes 260 h.p and 350 ft lbs of torque @ 2500 rpm. the chevy makes 285 h.p. and 325 ft lbs @ 4000. the extra torque, at such a low rpm, should more than make up the slight advantage the chevy has with the 3.73.
gears are great but if you think going from a 3.55 to a 3.73 is going to make your truck more than a 10th faster, you are really going to be disapointed.

 

Hey Newbie, I feel your pain. I ran at a drag strip yesterday in Crofton, MD. - my frist time dragging and pulled a 16.49 @ 81.1 mph.
I thought i would at least be somewhere in the 15's. Because I didn't plan on running and have a clue about preparing ( like lowering the tail gate or not having a full tank and tire pressure ) i am hoping to get there next time.
My current mods are: gibson supertruck exhaust, jba headers, airaid fipk, motorsport plugs and wires, superchip and transgo shift kit. i didn't get much burn-out at the start - lightning rims w/ yokohama avst's but did warm them up in the water trough thingy. Does anyone have a clue what kinda times i should be looking at?? even generally? By the way - reaction time was a sorry 1.0
I still had a blast though, even being spanked by a 13.4 second camaro!

------------------
1997 F150 flareside ; Belltech lowered 3" front, 4" rear ,KYB shocks, Gibson Supertruck exhaust, JBA Headers, TransGo shift kit, Superchip (thanks Mike),Airaid FPIK, Ford Expedition center console, White guages, Lightning rims w/ Yokohama AVST's.

 

Hi Newbie46, the Internet tells me the Elevation in Phoenix is 1117 feet. The track I ran 15.7 at has an Elevation of 168 feet. That's a diff of 949 feet. So, I don't think a 2" drop is going to do it for you. I calculate you'll need an 11,388 inch drop.

I think if I had shifted manually I wouldn't have broken out of the 18's.

Good Luck.



------------------
1999 Ford F150 Lariat RegCab shortbed 5.4L 3.55LS Towpkg Line-X
15.714@85.21

 

Hi Newbie46,

You're very welcome of course, and Neal always has great input on lowering 1/4 mile times on these late-model F-150's, doesn't he? What with his '99 running mid-14's while running out of fuel at about 1000 ft., Neal's F-150 is pretty darned strong for a 2-ton+ pickup truck!

And a big thanks to Raoul for posting your actual elevation, because at your 1117 ft. elevation above sea level, you have lost about 3.35% of the power your vehicle will make at sea level, so there is another part of your ET as well. (Remember that normally-aspirated gasoline engines will lose 3% of their power for every 1000 ft. above sea level altitude.)

Yes, the racing gas can help you a little bit, but not a whole lot, as remember, your Superchip really isn't setup to be able to take best advantage of fuels above 93-94 octane. So if you wanted to go to the track with say, 1/4 to 1/2 tank of premium gas, and then put in say, 2-4 gallons of racing gas (depending on how much "normal' premium you have in the tank of course, don't use too much!), then you could pick up another tenth or perhaps even 2 tenths, at best.

I would not advise doing a gear ratio change from 3.55 to 3.73, that's really too small of a change for the cost to be beneficial enough for you, unless you had a specific rpm number you were trying to match thru the lights, and you aren't. If you're going to do a gear change, go for 4.10's or not at all, would be my advice. What we normally do is to use all our power-adders first (meaning, modifications that add horsepower), and then if that still doesn't give the performance desired, then and only then do a gear ratio change, for daily drivers. Some people will do gear changes first, typically drag racers, and that's fine, but we do it last on daily drivers that aren't meant to be primarily drag racing vehicles or aren't going to be towing heavy loads.

Your staging technique is important too (assuming you didn't already know about that, if you did, my apologies), if you weren't already aware of altering rollout distance to improve ET's, then you'll want to practice that a bit too. As a matter of fact, we have a drag racing tips sheet for Lightning owners that we send out with every Lightning Superchip; if you'd like to have a copy, just shoot me an email with your address and we'll shoot you a copy. It's basic, for begineers, not for really experienced drag racers, so let that be your guide on whether or not you feel you might benefit from it. It goes over how to properly do back-to-back drag strip testing to identify just how much your modifications have done for you, along with staging techniques, etc. Basic for experienced drag racers, but nice for those without a lot of experience.

Good luck next time out!

------------------
Mike Troyer
Performance Products, Inc.
National Distributor of Superchips
(540) 862-9515
Email: mtroyer@compuserve.com
Performance Products F150Online Superchip ordering system: F150Online Superchip Ordering System
First National F-150 Online Rally Event Organizer

[This message has been edited by Superchips_Distributor (edited 03-19-2001).]

 

The 5.3L chevy makes 290 hp

 

Is your truck 2wd or 4wd? I ran 16 flat with mine prior to my current exhaust. I'm going to try it this Friday

------------------
OO L Black, Superchip R9, Airaid FIPK and Tonneau cover1999 F-150 Lariat SC 2 WD, White/Silver, 5.4L, 3.55LS, K & N FIPK, Superchip, underdrive pulley set, Flowmaster dual chamber one in and duels out, six disc CD changer, towing package and captain chairs

 

chevrolet 5.3 has 285 h.p.
http://www.chevrolet.com/silverado/index.htm

 

Hey Newbie, i just found this - thought it might be helpful.
http://www.staginglight.com/guide/react.html

------------------
1997 F150 flareside ; Belltech lowered 3" front, 4" rear ,KYB shocks, Gibson Supertruck exhaust, JBA Headers, TransGo shift kit, Superchip (thanks Mike),Airaid FPIK, Ford Expedition center console, White guages, Lightning rims w/ Yokohama AVST's.

 

Neal
I'm hoping to make milan
the car was junk
a lot of bondo and painted in someones
driveway late at night
took it for a ride with a 429 scj and 4:30
detroit locker it would not spin a tire
lost a small depoist and gas there
some times it's best to just walk away

 

my truck is a 2WD version. i am trying to convince my friend to split the cost on a G-tech Pro so we can practice our technique so that when we go back to the track, we will be prepared. Hey Mike, is there such a program that can be burned in these Supechips so that it is mainly for a "go fast" mode? how about the firmest possible shift? can that variable be changed on mine (code SVB1)? also, i noticed that when i am cruising at highway speed and i floor it, my tranny feels like it is shifting all the way down to 1st gear (tach kicks up to 5000+ rpm) for a brief moment then 2nd...etc. i feel that i would benefit more if it just shifts down to 2nd and not all the way down to 1st. could my "custom made" billet housing for the stock MAF sensor (82mm) be the culprit or it is the chips doing? please let me know as i am curious to get my chip re-programmed(ofcourse by you) if any of these are possible. thanks in advance.
ofcourse, my friend sensed what i am trying to do, so now he is getting limited slip, better tires and possibly Micro Tuner 2001. now he wants to break 15's and go high 14's with his sheevie . anyway, thanks again for everybody's input.

------------------
2000 EXPEDITION 4.6 3.31 Rear, AIRAID Fipk with Poweraid Spacer, UltraFlow muffler, 82 mm Mass Air Flow Sensor housing w/ stock sensor, 6.8 inch TV with tuner/VCP, Full alarm and Auto-Start, Daytime Running Lights

New Addition:

2001 F150 SUPERCAB 5.4L 3.55 LS, Airaid FIPK, 82 mm MAF sensor billet aluminum housing w/ stock sensor, Full alarm and auto-start, 50 series 3 chamber 3inch in/out Deltaflow Flowmaster
Swept Side style, Beltech 2 inch rear shackles, SUPERCHIP, billet grille, Lariat wheels and tires (275/60/17), Billet antenna by TRENDZ.

COMING SOON:
pulleys, remove cats, 2 inch drop all around.

[This message has been edited by Newbie46 (edited 03-20-2001).]