Bolt "chipped" but won't start???
Does anyone no if I'm doing somthing wrong with the installation of my chip. I did every thing the instrutions said to do. This is going to be the second time I'll have to send it back. When I put the chip in all it does is make my engine turn over&over but won't start. Can you help me "Mike" or "anyone"....
lightning chick, I had the same problem redid install and it worked fine.I think if your odometer is flashing and your anti theft is flashing while you are turning it over your chip may need a jumper soldered onto it.Call Mike he is very helpful
------------------
99 F250 XLT LD 4X4 S/C,5.4,3.73 Limited slip,Bright red clearcoat ,4whl abs,remote start w/keyless entry and alarm,chrome rims,tinted,westin nerf bars,factory tonneau,superchip,K&NGen II fipk,pioneer in dash cd,pioneer amp,infinity kappas all around,Lund front runner bug sheild.Gibson split rear,stull SS grilles.
------------------
99 F250 XLT LD 4X4 S/C,5.4,3.73 Limited slip,Bright red clearcoat ,4whl abs,remote start w/keyless entry and alarm,chrome rims,tinted,westin nerf bars,factory tonneau,superchip,K&NGen II fipk,pioneer in dash cd,pioneer amp,infinity kappas all around,Lund front runner bug sheild.Gibson split rear,stull SS grilles.
Dear 20yoLightningchick,
Whenever that happens on a Lightning, it's almost always due to not getting all of that clear-colored conformal coating off of the contacts on the male edge connector that the Superchip mates to. There is nothing wrong with the Superchip itself, it's the *connection* that you're having a problem with. 1999 Lightnings all have the same computer and software code, CUX1, so they're all identical in that one aspect, and they have never had any jumper misconfiguration problems like some of the early 1999 vehicles did.
I would suggest that you pull the computer back out, and go over that connector again. Remember that the conformal coating that has to be removed from the edge connector to establish proper contact is clear in color, so it can be hard to see just exactly how much of it you need to remove. If that coating is thick, you'll need to scrape it from in between the contacts as well, so as not to get that stuff inside the slot on your Superchip module. Also, as you'll probably remember from your installation, there is more room to work on the top of the connector than there is on the bottom, and most of the time in Lightning no-starts it is due to not having removed enough of the conformal coating from the bottom of the connector.
What we do instead of using the piece of green Scotch-Brite pad that is included with every Superchip, is to use a very small straight-blade screwdriver to "shave" this coating off of the contacts, one at a time, manually. The Scotch-Brite pad can work fine, but I've formed my techniques over the years to give me the best & quickest results, to each their own.
Remember that the contacts have a protective tin coating to cover the actual copper contact underneath, so when you're scraping, if you see any silver flakes, STOP, you've gone far enough on that particular contact. Using a very small straight-blade screwdriver, like from a jewelers or eyeglass screwdriver kit, will allow you plenty of room to work even on the bottom of the edge connector, without having to remove the covers from the computer for better access.
Another suggestion is to take a look at this edge connector with a magnifying glass, as that will allow you to see just how much of that coating is there much better, under magnification. This is another reason I use the small screwdriver blade to shave the coating off, as when this coating is "cut" it will look a bit white along the edge, so you can see just how much you actually need to remove better.
There have been a few Lightnings that have had a thin edge connector, thinner than the manufacturing specification, and when that happens you can get erratic operation, but not just dead no-starts all the time, as a rough general rule. You can tell if your edge connector is too thin by virtue of the fact that the Superchip will be noticeably loose, and actually "wobble" on the connector when fully seated. If that happens, Superchips will be happy to correct that for you, and overnight the computer back to you, free of charge!
Overall, I feel certain you're going to find that this in connection-related, rather than anything wrong with the Superchip. Over 98% of the time when this type of problem exists, it's a problem with the actual connection, rather than the Superchip.
Just so you'll know, the way we do this is to first take a couple of Q-tips dipped in rubbing alcohol, and clean the connector before scraping. Then I will scrape each one of the contacts with my trusty screwdriver blade individually, until I know I have enough of that coating removed. The actual thickness of this coating can vary a bit from one vehicle to the next, by the way. Once I'm finished scraping, I will shake the computer to let the shavings fall back out of the computer, and "slap" it across an open palm, to get all that loose stuff out of the computer. These shavings from this coating will almost always fall into the computer while you're doing this, and that won't hurt anything usually, but if there is enough of it it can over time work it's way between the contacts and cause the vehicle to stall, so I always shake them out. Then my last step before actually attaching the Superchip is to take a couple more Q-tips, again dipped in rubbing alcohol, and go over that connector one more time to clean it up good. Then we attach the Superchip, reinstall the computer in the vehicle, and drive off!
Please feel free to give us a call, and we'll be happy to go over this with you in detail, ok? Don't worry, you'll be up and running soon!
------------------
Mike Troyer
Performance Products, Inc.
National Distributor of Superchips
(540) 862-9515
Email: mtroyer@compuserve.com
Online Superchip ordering system:https://www.f150online.com/scpp/index.html
[This message has been edited by Superchips_Distributor (edited 03-21-2000).]
Whenever that happens on a Lightning, it's almost always due to not getting all of that clear-colored conformal coating off of the contacts on the male edge connector that the Superchip mates to. There is nothing wrong with the Superchip itself, it's the *connection* that you're having a problem with. 1999 Lightnings all have the same computer and software code, CUX1, so they're all identical in that one aspect, and they have never had any jumper misconfiguration problems like some of the early 1999 vehicles did.
I would suggest that you pull the computer back out, and go over that connector again. Remember that the conformal coating that has to be removed from the edge connector to establish proper contact is clear in color, so it can be hard to see just exactly how much of it you need to remove. If that coating is thick, you'll need to scrape it from in between the contacts as well, so as not to get that stuff inside the slot on your Superchip module. Also, as you'll probably remember from your installation, there is more room to work on the top of the connector than there is on the bottom, and most of the time in Lightning no-starts it is due to not having removed enough of the conformal coating from the bottom of the connector.
What we do instead of using the piece of green Scotch-Brite pad that is included with every Superchip, is to use a very small straight-blade screwdriver to "shave" this coating off of the contacts, one at a time, manually. The Scotch-Brite pad can work fine, but I've formed my techniques over the years to give me the best & quickest results, to each their own.
Remember that the contacts have a protective tin coating to cover the actual copper contact underneath, so when you're scraping, if you see any silver flakes, STOP, you've gone far enough on that particular contact. Using a very small straight-blade screwdriver, like from a jewelers or eyeglass screwdriver kit, will allow you plenty of room to work even on the bottom of the edge connector, without having to remove the covers from the computer for better access.Another suggestion is to take a look at this edge connector with a magnifying glass, as that will allow you to see just how much of that coating is there much better, under magnification. This is another reason I use the small screwdriver blade to shave the coating off, as when this coating is "cut" it will look a bit white along the edge, so you can see just how much you actually need to remove better.
There have been a few Lightnings that have had a thin edge connector, thinner than the manufacturing specification, and when that happens you can get erratic operation, but not just dead no-starts all the time, as a rough general rule. You can tell if your edge connector is too thin by virtue of the fact that the Superchip will be noticeably loose, and actually "wobble" on the connector when fully seated. If that happens, Superchips will be happy to correct that for you, and overnight the computer back to you, free of charge!
Overall, I feel certain you're going to find that this in connection-related, rather than anything wrong with the Superchip. Over 98% of the time when this type of problem exists, it's a problem with the actual connection, rather than the Superchip.
Just so you'll know, the way we do this is to first take a couple of Q-tips dipped in rubbing alcohol, and clean the connector before scraping. Then I will scrape each one of the contacts with my trusty screwdriver blade individually, until I know I have enough of that coating removed. The actual thickness of this coating can vary a bit from one vehicle to the next, by the way. Once I'm finished scraping, I will shake the computer to let the shavings fall back out of the computer, and "slap" it across an open palm, to get all that loose stuff out of the computer. These shavings from this coating will almost always fall into the computer while you're doing this, and that won't hurt anything usually, but if there is enough of it it can over time work it's way between the contacts and cause the vehicle to stall, so I always shake them out. Then my last step before actually attaching the Superchip is to take a couple more Q-tips, again dipped in rubbing alcohol, and go over that connector one more time to clean it up good. Then we attach the Superchip, reinstall the computer in the vehicle, and drive off!
Please feel free to give us a call, and we'll be happy to go over this with you in detail, ok? Don't worry, you'll be up and running soon!

------------------
Mike Troyer
Performance Products, Inc.
National Distributor of Superchips
(540) 862-9515
Email: mtroyer@compuserve.com
Online Superchip ordering system:https://www.f150online.com/scpp/index.html
[This message has been edited by Superchips_Distributor (edited 03-21-2000).]
I INSTALLED ONE ON MY 1999 LIGHTNING AND DIDNT HAVE A SINGLE PROBLEM WITH IT.YOU REALLY CANT TELL THAT MUCH OF A DIFFERENCE WITH IT BECAUSE THE TRUCK IS ALREADY FAST ENOUGH AND WHEN THE NUMBERS ARE THAT HIGH IT TAKES ALOT TO NOTICE 8 OR MORE HORSEPOWER.
------------------
RED 1999 Lightnig clear corners (tails on the way) k&n, superchip, A.R.E. tonneau cover, permatech glowing sprayed on bedliner,(mine), black f150 supercrew lariat 4x4,1999 EB expedition 4x4,
------------------
RED 1999 Lightnig clear corners (tails on the way) k&n, superchip, A.R.E. tonneau cover, permatech glowing sprayed on bedliner,(mine), black f150 supercrew lariat 4x4,1999 EB expedition 4x4,
Hey,
I have a 2000 F-150 4.6L. I had the same problem installing the chip and it wouldn't start. I finally figured out the problem. First, check the contacts on the computer make sure they are clean and dust free and then make sure the superchip doesn't have any dirt or dust stuck in it. If these check out look at the bracket that holds the computer to the side of the wall under the dash if it has a little lip on it like my truck did it will push the superchip out of connection when you install the computer retaining clip therefore making your engine refuse to start. I fixed this problem with a little "redneck smarts" I fabricated a spacer out of some folded up notebook paper just thick enough to push the lip clear of the chip and then I clipped the computer back on using the factory clip. Works perfect now!!
2000 F-150 reg cab short wheelbase
4.6L V-8 4X4 Sport 3.55 auto
Superchipped, Flowmaster 40 series
K&N filter
Manik brushguard
KC Offroad lights
OEM Black cab steps
I have a 2000 F-150 4.6L. I had the same problem installing the chip and it wouldn't start. I finally figured out the problem. First, check the contacts on the computer make sure they are clean and dust free and then make sure the superchip doesn't have any dirt or dust stuck in it. If these check out look at the bracket that holds the computer to the side of the wall under the dash if it has a little lip on it like my truck did it will push the superchip out of connection when you install the computer retaining clip therefore making your engine refuse to start. I fixed this problem with a little "redneck smarts" I fabricated a spacer out of some folded up notebook paper just thick enough to push the lip clear of the chip and then I clipped the computer back on using the factory clip. Works perfect now!!
2000 F-150 reg cab short wheelbase
4.6L V-8 4X4 Sport 3.55 auto
Superchipped, Flowmaster 40 series
K&N filter
Manik brushguard
KC Offroad lights
OEM Black cab steps
I was going to suggest looking at the rolled up edge on the mounting bracket. I had the same 'no start' problem the next day after I installed the superchip. My truck ran fine the day before, but it sat over night and would not start the next morning. After a few minutes..I decided to push on the chip..and it started right up.
I removed the bracket, flattened out the rolled up edge(only where the superchip sits when installed) and reinstalled everything. Three weeks later and no problems at all.
I helped install a Superchip in my friends F-150 last Friday and also flattened out his bracket. No problems starting.
------------------
2000 F-150 XLT, 4x2, Superchipped 5.4L Supercab, Styleside, Black with silver two-tone, 3.55 rear, class III towing package with heavy duty cooling package, 4 wheel disk ABS, overhead console, sliding rear window, keyless entry, dark graphite interior, in dash CD, factory leather wrapped steering wheel, Pendaliner bedliner, K&N air filter, rubberized undercoating, cabin filtration system, Bugflector II, 5W-30 Mobil 1, engine build 10/4/99
I removed the bracket, flattened out the rolled up edge(only where the superchip sits when installed) and reinstalled everything. Three weeks later and no problems at all.
I helped install a Superchip in my friends F-150 last Friday and also flattened out his bracket. No problems starting.
------------------
2000 F-150 XLT, 4x2, Superchipped 5.4L Supercab, Styleside, Black with silver two-tone, 3.55 rear, class III towing package with heavy duty cooling package, 4 wheel disk ABS, overhead console, sliding rear window, keyless entry, dark graphite interior, in dash CD, factory leather wrapped steering wheel, Pendaliner bedliner, K&N air filter, rubberized undercoating, cabin filtration system, Bugflector II, 5W-30 Mobil 1, engine build 10/4/99
svtaudio,
You might want to examine your chip.... I installed one, and the performance gains from the new shift points is definitely NOTICEABLE! My 1st to 2nd shift will give me a tire chirp occasionally... The 1999 Lightning computer will NOT shift to first from a 25 MPH roll, making the truck fall on it's face if you punch it between 25 and 35 mph. With my new chip, I ALWAYS get a 2nd to 1st shift at these speeds.
Good luck!
You might want to examine your chip.... I installed one, and the performance gains from the new shift points is definitely NOTICEABLE! My 1st to 2nd shift will give me a tire chirp occasionally... The 1999 Lightning computer will NOT shift to first from a 25 MPH roll, making the truck fall on it's face if you punch it between 25 and 35 mph. With my new chip, I ALWAYS get a 2nd to 1st shift at these speeds.
Good luck!


