I found probably the easiest way to take the goo off the computer terminals. You guys know about the small flat head screwdrivers that are used for eyeglass repair? Well that's what I used and took the goo off in 2 minutes!!! You can even actually see it coming off and not have to guesstimate like when using the 'green' sponge included in the SC pack. Using the small flathead screwdriver leaves it tremendously clean.
Has anyone done this before? I bet it saved you some time!

!!!!PS!!!!!
I seen before on a home page of an F150 Member, the names of people on ebay who are commiting fraud. Accepting money and not mailing anything back. ANY info on this, please let me know!! I am going to buy an expensive cell phone and want to know if this guy is a fake. I think I seen his name on the list. Thanks

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2000 F150 V6 4.2L 5spd
>SuperChip EGJ3
>MagnaFlow Exhaust
>KenWood 600W Powering StealthBox with 2 10" Punch on Stock CD Stereo
>CB/PA System
>PIAA HID Headlights and FogLights
>Bug Deflector
>Clear Coroners
>Window Vents and Tint
> Nothing but Texaco PremiumGasoline-CleanSystem3


[This message has been edited by F150Y2K (edited 02-17-2000).]

 

F150Y2K, yes--! That's not the way I did it, but later found out from Mike Troyer that this is the new preferred method. I even updated my How-To article to tell others this is the best way to do it! Good job!!

--Duke

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2000 F-150 Lariat, 4x2, 4.6L automatic Supercab, Styleside, Blue with gold two-tone, 3.55 slip axle, class III towing package, overhead console, sliding rear window, keyless entry, leather interior, in dash CD, Ford/Duraliner bedliner, Ford chrome nerf bars, Ford bug deflector, Steel Horse billet grille, Leer hard tonneau cover, Superchip, Airaid, Billet door sills & antennae, Gibson split rear exit with 3" slash tips, chrome differential cover. My How-To Articles

 

I used a combination of the two. It seems my little screw driver would not cut the last little bit off. So two swipes with the sponge got the rest.

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97 F-150 SC Lariat, Styleside, White over Gold, 4.6L (Windsor), Automatic, 3.55 rear end, electronic 4X4, w/ every option of Lariat and ORP packages except the 17" wheels (I even got the OR decals now!) MOD's so far: K&N air box mod, Gibson Super Truck, clear Bugflector II, Leer TSC 600 hard cover, Bridgestone Dueler OWL ATP 265/75 R-16's, TrailMaster Invader N7 shocks, Smittybilt step bars, Ford moulded mud guards, "White-white" head lamps, Cloud Rider Design's SS Grill and bumper opening, Bosch Platinum + 4's, Hayden 30K+ Tranny Cooler,Class III Reece load distributing hitch system, full wiring including trailer battery charging system, Escort Sensor II Brake controller, Superchip

 

Dear F150Y2K,

I agree completely! Superchips just started including that green Scotch-Brite pad last summer ('99), so for all these years I have always used the exact same thing, a very small straight-blade screwdriver from a jeweler's kit, or an eyeglass screwdriver kit.

On older Fords, say from roughly the early to mid-90's and on back, this clear conformal coating was lacquer-based, and considerably thinner. In newer vehicles, this coating is generally thicker, and silicon-based, so it's softer too. If your coating is particularly thick, it can gum up the Scotch-Brite pad.

I've developed my technique so that I do not ever have to remove either of the covers of the computer itself. There is more room to work on the top side of the edge connector than there is on the bottom, so a lot of guys will just take the covers off of the computer for better access. I developed my installation technique so I don't have to do that. So for 2 reasons, the conformal coating being clear and sometimes hard to see just how much is there, and because of space available, I have been using the same basic technique as you described here, and it's worked very well, and allows me to install them fairly quickly and easily.

The thing to remember is that the contacts have a protective tin coating over them (that's the silver color you see), so if you see any silver flakes when you're scraping, STOP, you've gone far enough on that contact. You don't want to damage the copper contact underneath the silver, which of course takes quite a bit of effort to actually damage.

Once I am finished manually scraping each contact on top and bottom, I will take a couple of Q-tips dipped in rubbing alcohol and "dress" the connector, to clean it up and make it look nice, and to remove any traces of coating.

Congratulations on your technique, and thanks for posting it for everyone!

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Mike Troyer
Performance Products, Inc.
National Distributor of Superchips
(540) 862-9515
Email: mtroyer@compuserve.com
Online Superchip ordering system:https://www.f150online.com/scpp/index.html