I just installed a HyperTech Module in my 4.2L tonight and it works great from 0 to about 50mph, around 50mph i get a noise that kinda sounds like whooshing and it sounds like the engine is revving high (not shifting into the next gear). when i step on the pedal i still have plenty of power (love what the chip did for my V6) and the noise seems to lessen, but the revving still sounds like it's wound out. i've only had it up to 70mph as of now but that wound out sound stays, even though i've still got plenty of kick left when i press the accelerator. anyone know if these sounds are normal or healthy, or if the chip just takes a while to set itself and these will go away? thanks


1998 F150 4.2L V6
K&N poor mans intake
HyperTech Module
PowerTrax No Slip Locker

 

i also found that when i'm in park and first start the truck up it kind of pulses (rpm's go up then down then up...continued) and the OD off light flashes on and off. this continues till i put the truck in drive then it all goes away. i've also found that when i try pushing the OD off button i feel no change (i used to be able to tell when i kicked out of OD). i took the truck on the highway today and at 70-80mph it didn't seem as though the wound out sound went away (i'm not sure if it's not switching into the next gear or what), i don't know whether this is something i should be worried about or what. i'm going to probably call hypertech within the next day or so and see what they say if no one has any thing to say in the forums. thanks in advance for the replies.

 

Hi POD6,

Most likely, it's an installation-related issue.

Those symptoms (especially in your second post) are absolutely *classic* symptoms of not having the connector on the back of the PCM properly cleaned, and thus having a connection problem between the module and the PCM.

It *might* be an issue with the chip, but the odds are slim of that being the case (though Hypertech does once in awhile have problems with transmission shifting, it's rare, they usually work fine), as that usually causes the vehicle to not start at all with the chip installed. This is almost always an installation problem - the symptoms are classic.

You need to disconnect the battery, completely remove the PCM from the vehicle, remove both the top and bottom covers from the PCM, and then remove every bit of conformal coating on every bit of surface area on that connector that is covered by the slot on that module when it is installed.

Then you need to clean out the slot on the module itself, as most likely some conformal coating has transferred over into it, too - use a clean dry toothbrush (one that does NOT have any dried toothpaste on any of the bristles!), and holding that module so the slot is pointed towards the ground, lightly brush back and forth inside the slot with that clean dry toothbrush - just a few strokes back and forth each way. Then blow out that slow - don't use high-pressure compressed air, just blow it out with your mouth (I know that sounds funny, but you know what I mean) - blow it out from each end of the slot a couple of times, to make sure any debris is blown out of there - without getting any saliva in there, it can't be wet at all.

Then once both the connector and the module are 100% free of all conformal coating, go and and reinstall it and re-secure the PCM back into the vehicle so that *neither that module or the PCM can move. Then when all of that is done, then and *only* then reconnect the battery.

Make sure you do not have your keys in the ignition any time you disconnect or reconnect the battery, either. Though yours is a pre-1999& thus probably does not have PATS, always get in this habit anyway, as most modern vehicles do have some kind of chip hidden inside that key as part of the anti-theft system.

Any time you disconnect the battery of any computer-controlled vehicle, and/or change the program the PCM is using, you may experience some mild "relearn" symptoms, where the idle fluctuates just a little bit (not up and down and up and down in a rhythmic pattern, as that usually indicates a problem that has caused the PCM to go into "limp-home" mode) - just a bit of variance in the idle speed, as well as a bit of variance in the firmness level of the shifting in the automatic transmission.

I have no idea what sound you are hearing, nobody can diagnose that without seeing the vehicle - no telling what you are calling a "whooshing" sound - it may just be that the fan's clutch is shot, or it may be you are actually having that chip causing a transmission problem, or anything in between.

But go back and completely re-do your installation, taking your time - that conformal coating that must be removed from the connector is clear in color, and can be very hard to see - use a magnifying glass, and look at it *indoors* - but under bright light and some magnification, so you can really see it well. And remember, you have to clean *all* of that connector, and on both sides - not just the actual contacts, but in between, the sides, edges, etc. - the entire connector. (not the entire circuit board, just the connector)

Most chip manufacturers really do not provide what I feel are thorough enough instructions for proper cleaning of that connector - most just say to use a piece of Scotch-Brite pad, and that alone won't do the job. That is the source of 98% of all problems with chips in FoMoCo vehicles, installation problems due to a connection-related problem between the chip and the vehicle's PCM - due to not properly cleaning the connector.

If you will check in the technical articles section here, there should be a link to an article written a few years ago by a customer of ours, who also took lots of pictures, etc., showing the procedure - there are a few minor things I might do a little bit differently, but all in all it's a very good help article, and will give you a much better idea of the kind of work that needs to be done for a successful installation & proper cleaning of that connector, etc.

Now, once all that is done, if you are still having any of these symptoms, then don't hesitate to call Hypertech for Tech Support on this.

Good luck!

 

thanks for the help Mike, i called the hypertech people before i got to read your post and they said that the model # of the module i got had already been burned once, so what i'm going to do is take it out and try a more thorough cleaning and reinstallation and see if that takes care of it. if not i'm probably going to put it up on ebay and i was wondering if you've (Mike) got a programmer or chip for the 4.2L and how much, for both if you have both. and i've heard that i can get a cheaper price if i call and order, if that's true what # do i need to call to order off of you? thanks a lot, i should be able to try the cleaning in the next couple days and i'll have reached a decision what i'm doing within the week. Thanks Mike.

 

Hi POD6,

OK, glad to hear you talked to Hypertech - I agree, this is most likely just a connection-related issue (installation problem), and that is usually just due to not getting what I consider to be thorough enough instructions on cleaning the connector properly from the manufacturers - for example, we write our own additional docs when we ship out a Superchip for these vehicles, in addition to supplying the manufacturer's instructions exactly because of that potential issue for first-time installers. Good luck with that!

If you should decide for whatever reason not to use that Hypertech unit, then yes, we sure do have virtually every style of tuning device you could want for it - ranging from single program chips to 4-program chips to the 3-custom tune Micro Tuner you can just flash the PCM with. The latter being our most popular item with the 4.2 V6 owners especially, as it's the only way for them to get a Micro Tuner, by doing the custom unit. That one takes all of 8-10 minutes to install, and you don't have to even look at the PCM (computer), much less touch it - no cleaning of the connector, etc. You plug it into the OBD-II port under the dash, push a few buttons and in less than 10 minutes you're done - simple & fast. That is the unit I like best, as in that device we can do in-depth custom tuning (even on a bone-stock truck) to get the best power & performance gains, and it's the easiest to install - it also eliminates the diagnostic & datalogging "limitations" caused by engaging the J3 connector on the Ford PCM. For example, with any type of performance chip installed, the Ford WDS system (that Ford dealership service departments use) can't even communicate with the PCM at all - though the NGS Star tester most Ford dealership also have can. But even those scan tools that *can* communicate with the PCM with J3 (that's the connector you have to clean) engaged, you're limited to being able to get only the generic OBD-II DTC's & sensor PID's - no extended manufacturer-specific data. Now that's not the end of the world of course, you can always just remove any chip if you ever have a need to get any of that extended data - it's just a small point.

Because of the vendor rules here on F-150 Online, we cannot discuss any specific pricing for you here - but yes, you get your best pricing on Superchips products by calling us, what you heard about that is indeed true.

One last tip on your next attempt at cleaning that connector - if you are *careful* in your selection of which type, you can use electrical contact cleaner if you *carefully* spray it on the connector to help loosen up & remove that conformal coating - just make sure it's a kind that is safe for use on plastics, and that you do NOT spray it anywhere except on that connector - don't let it get *anywhere* else on that circuit board. used properly, that can be a nice aid to cleaning that connector.

Good luck!

 

i went over both of the connections with a fine tooth comb (expression of course) and reinstalled it, still no luck. the noise turns out is more like a whine that seems to be coming from around near the computer wiring harness (the noise is inside the engine compartment around that area... who knows what it actually is, all i know is it wasn't there before). the performance is awesome so i know i definitely want a chip or tuner (preferably a tuner, depending on what kind of price i can squeeze out of my wife...lol). thanks again mike, i'll be giving you a call probably monday.

 

Hi POD6,

Hmm, sorry to hear that noise problem was still there - that's very unusual to have any noise accompany a chip installation and still have the vehicle start & run.

Sometimes, when there is a connection problem or a code mis-match or what we call a "jumper box," a solenoid under the hood will make noise when the chip is attached - now usually the truck will not start if that happens, but not 100% of the time.

At any rate, we'll be more than happy to help you get into our tuning, no problem - if you liked what that Hypertech unit did for the performance, you'll *love* what our tuning does.

Good luck & talk to you soon!