MicroTuner + Magnaflow + Volant
I currently have the 1715 MicroTuner, Magnaflow 15749 SI/DO system and a Volant closed cold air intake sitting in my house.
What would be the recommended order of install for these three items?
Should I reset the computer or will the MicroTuner program take care of having to do this?
I also expect a TPS adjustment will be needed, or not with the "closed" cold air intake.?
Thanks for the help
redbuck50
What would be the recommended order of install for these three items?
Should I reset the computer or will the MicroTuner program take care of having to do this?
I also expect a TPS adjustment will be needed, or not with the "closed" cold air intake.?
Thanks for the help
redbuck50
I would install the intake, exhaust and then the tunrer program. The reason is you want to have to tune once to get the most effiiency out of your truck.
As for resetting the PCM, refer to the Microtuner instructions, it will tell you the info you need.
You should not have to touch your TPS. You only need to do that if you changed throttle body's. The system that is on the truck is a closed air intake system, like the Volant. You should also not have to touch the TPS on an open intake system like the Air Force one setup. If you had to do this step, many people would have ill running trucks, or have to take them to the dealer to get it set correctly.
Good Luck,
Brian
As for resetting the PCM, refer to the Microtuner instructions, it will tell you the info you need.
You should not have to touch your TPS. You only need to do that if you changed throttle body's. The system that is on the truck is a closed air intake system, like the Volant. You should also not have to touch the TPS on an open intake system like the Air Force one setup. If you had to do this step, many people would have ill running trucks, or have to take them to the dealer to get it set correctly.
Good Luck,
Brian
Hi redbuck50,
The reality is that it does not matter which order you do those 3 specific modifications in - that makes absolutely no difference with regard to the end result.
Now the actual order of best bang for the buck is the tuning, the intake and then the exhaust, but for those 3 mods you can actually install them in any order you prefer, and that will not make any difference in the end result.
Also, I *do* recommend checking & if need be, adjusting the TPS voltage on these stock factory throttle bodies anytime you install any aftermarket intake, as it is *rarely* optimal from the factory - I have yet to see one at 0.98 to 0.99 stock and we've specialized in modifying these vehicles for more performance for years, serving thousands of owners. The reality is that they usually range from about 0.84-0.88, with the occasional 0.94 or so - optimal is 0.98-0.99 for best light-throttle driveability. There is no "adjustment range" built into the factory throttle body's TPS, so you will usually need to file a small "notch" so you can gain effective adjustment range.
Now what *is* true is that you generally do not have to adjust the TPS to get WOT (wide-open throttle) recognized by the PCM when you floor the gas pedal, but they aren't "optimal" from the factory and this does indeed affect light-throttle driveability with many aftermarket intake systems.
The fact that these trucks don't have a really noticeable "deficit" with the stock intake & TB with it's less-than-optimal voltage setting from the factory means nothing - what is actually going on there is that the factory air intake tract is designed to provide good *velocity* at low rpm & very light throttle - at the expense of power everywhere else. But when you open up the intake by installing an aftermarket intake system, many times what happens is you get a scenario in which when you apply the first little bit of throttle the vehicle responds correctly, then the next little bit it bogs, and then give it just a bit more still and it picks back up - this is very typical with many low-restriction intake setups on these vehicles, and that *is* in fact improved noticeably by correcting the TPS voltage.
With regard to clearing the PCM, that is optional and is not actually required with those modifications. Many people will do that after installing performance modifications, so the PCM can go back thru it's basic relearn cycle, and so that it's adaptive strategy adjustments will begin with the new mechanical configuration. This would happen anyway over time, it's just a technique to get better **short-term** results. In the long run, it won't make a difference whether or not you clear the PCM after installing those 3 performance mods, that is a short-term technique where those specific mods are concerned.
Many times guys will clear their PCM when they take their daily driver go to the dragstrip, as daily drivers usually tend to get a fair amount of conservative driving put on them, and the PCM can reduce power *slightly* in those situations via adaptive strategy. You get that back by clearing the PCM & making a couple of passes - until you do a good bit more conservative driving again. There isn't' a "big" difference by the way, we're only talking about a coupla-few percent difference in power output.
What I would recommend is to install your parts one at a time just so you can give the vehicle a quick test drive to make sure everything is OK with each installation - (this really applies mainly to the intake system) - then go ahead and install the other 2 parts in a similar manner, all on the same day if you like. That's what I would do if I had all those parts on hand & just waiting to go on. Then when you've got them all installed, if you like you can go ahead and clear the PCM.
If you'd like to go over any of this in more detail, please feel free to give us a call - our number is listed below & we're open Monday thru Friday from 9 to 6, Eastern time.
Have fun with your new mods & good luck!
The reality is that it does not matter which order you do those 3 specific modifications in - that makes absolutely no difference with regard to the end result.
Now the actual order of best bang for the buck is the tuning, the intake and then the exhaust, but for those 3 mods you can actually install them in any order you prefer, and that will not make any difference in the end result.
Also, I *do* recommend checking & if need be, adjusting the TPS voltage on these stock factory throttle bodies anytime you install any aftermarket intake, as it is *rarely* optimal from the factory - I have yet to see one at 0.98 to 0.99 stock and we've specialized in modifying these vehicles for more performance for years, serving thousands of owners. The reality is that they usually range from about 0.84-0.88, with the occasional 0.94 or so - optimal is 0.98-0.99 for best light-throttle driveability. There is no "adjustment range" built into the factory throttle body's TPS, so you will usually need to file a small "notch" so you can gain effective adjustment range.
Now what *is* true is that you generally do not have to adjust the TPS to get WOT (wide-open throttle) recognized by the PCM when you floor the gas pedal, but they aren't "optimal" from the factory and this does indeed affect light-throttle driveability with many aftermarket intake systems.
The fact that these trucks don't have a really noticeable "deficit" with the stock intake & TB with it's less-than-optimal voltage setting from the factory means nothing - what is actually going on there is that the factory air intake tract is designed to provide good *velocity* at low rpm & very light throttle - at the expense of power everywhere else. But when you open up the intake by installing an aftermarket intake system, many times what happens is you get a scenario in which when you apply the first little bit of throttle the vehicle responds correctly, then the next little bit it bogs, and then give it just a bit more still and it picks back up - this is very typical with many low-restriction intake setups on these vehicles, and that *is* in fact improved noticeably by correcting the TPS voltage.
With regard to clearing the PCM, that is optional and is not actually required with those modifications. Many people will do that after installing performance modifications, so the PCM can go back thru it's basic relearn cycle, and so that it's adaptive strategy adjustments will begin with the new mechanical configuration. This would happen anyway over time, it's just a technique to get better **short-term** results. In the long run, it won't make a difference whether or not you clear the PCM after installing those 3 performance mods, that is a short-term technique where those specific mods are concerned.
Many times guys will clear their PCM when they take their daily driver go to the dragstrip, as daily drivers usually tend to get a fair amount of conservative driving put on them, and the PCM can reduce power *slightly* in those situations via adaptive strategy. You get that back by clearing the PCM & making a couple of passes - until you do a good bit more conservative driving again. There isn't' a "big" difference by the way, we're only talking about a coupla-few percent difference in power output.

What I would recommend is to install your parts one at a time just so you can give the vehicle a quick test drive to make sure everything is OK with each installation - (this really applies mainly to the intake system) - then go ahead and install the other 2 parts in a similar manner, all on the same day if you like. That's what I would do if I had all those parts on hand & just waiting to go on. Then when you've got them all installed, if you like you can go ahead and clear the PCM.
If you'd like to go over any of this in more detail, please feel free to give us a call - our number is listed below & we're open Monday thru Friday from 9 to 6, Eastern time.
Have fun with your new mods & good luck!
Thanks Brian and Mike,
First I'm going to check the TPS reading in stock configuration. I printed out a how-to from the Lightning forum by clonetek. Is it the same procedure on the regular 5.4 F-150. I didn't see anything about "file a small notch" in the procedure? I'll continue to look unless someone can give me the link.
I think I will install the Tuner first. If all is OK then I'll put the intake on the next day and check the TPS. Then give it a week (approx 100 miles of driving) and install the exhaust. I'll check the TPS again. If there are noticable improvements then I'm not going to re-set the PCM and let it do it on it's own. If I follow you, you are saying the tuner does not re-program the PCM totaly just in certain areas and the PCM still needs to learn some things on it's own.
Thanks again. This site is great.
redbuck50
PS - What other mods are possible without exceeding the Micro Tuners capabilities?
First I'm going to check the TPS reading in stock configuration. I printed out a how-to from the Lightning forum by clonetek. Is it the same procedure on the regular 5.4 F-150. I didn't see anything about "file a small notch" in the procedure? I'll continue to look unless someone can give me the link.
I think I will install the Tuner first. If all is OK then I'll put the intake on the next day and check the TPS. Then give it a week (approx 100 miles of driving) and install the exhaust. I'll check the TPS again. If there are noticable improvements then I'm not going to re-set the PCM and let it do it on it's own. If I follow you, you are saying the tuner does not re-program the PCM totaly just in certain areas and the PCM still needs to learn some things on it's own.
Thanks again. This site is great.
redbuck50
PS - What other mods are possible without exceeding the Micro Tuners capabilities?
Originally posted by REDBUCK50
Thanks Brian and Mike,
First I'm going to check the TPS reading in stock configuration. I printed out a how-to from the Lightning forum by clonetek. Is it the same procedure on the regular 5.4 F-150. I didn't see anything about "file a small notch" in the procedure?
Thanks Brian and Mike,
First I'm going to check the TPS reading in stock configuration. I printed out a how-to from the Lightning forum by clonetek. Is it the same procedure on the regular 5.4 F-150. I didn't see anything about "file a small notch" in the procedure?
thanks in advance
don
Don,
Here is the link:
https://www.f150online.com/forums/sh...ghlight=tps%2A
I did it the other day. It was pretty simple. I had to loosen some part (no idea what it is) to get to the screws.
My reading was 94.1 and I set it to 99.4. I haven't put on the intake yet though.
Here is the link:
https://www.f150online.com/forums/sh...ghlight=tps%2A
I did it the other day. It was pretty simple. I had to loosen some part (no idea what it is) to get to the screws.
My reading was 94.1 and I set it to 99.4. I haven't put on the intake yet though.
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Hi Redbuck,
Excellent, glad to see you got your TPS voltage set to 0.994 (watch the decimal place, you don't want to every hit 1.0 volt or higher with the key on, engine off
), that's as perfect as you can get. We'll take anything in the 0.96-0.99 volt range, with 0.99 being ideal, so it sounds like you did a very nice job.
With regard to filing a "notch," that is sometimes needed depending on how far off it is, and sometimes not needed - and we're talking about just filing a notch in the plastic TPS "housing," for lack of a better term, on one of the screw points, basically, to give more effective adjustment "range." It's the same basic procedure for both Lightnings & "regular" F-150's, but they do have completely different throttle bodies, of course.
To answer your question about what other performance mods you can do and still use the Micro Tuner, here they are: Intake kits, cat-back exhaust systems, electric fans, underdrive pulleys, larger throttle bodies - and sometimes, even shorty headers.
Mods like blowers, nitrous, ported heads, camshaft changes, a different MAF (mass airflow meter/sensor) or larger fuel injectors are generally the types of mods you will need *custom* engine tuning to compensate for in the 1997-2003 non-Lightning F-150's & Expeditions, just to give you a rough idea.
If there is anything in particular you are thinking about & want to know if it will be OK with the Micro tuner, please feel free to give us ac all & we can go over all of that with you in detail.
With regard to clearing the PCM after installing most of the more common bolt-on modifications, you can do that if you like, but that is not generally *required*. Now many people *do* clear the PCM after installing a new intake, or a new exhaust system, etc., and that will allow the PCM to adapt to certain changes a bit quicker - but that will happen anyway even if you do not clear the PCM, so whether you do that or not is up to you.
One last point, about this issue of the "PCM adapting" to its new programming - the tuning is changed with the Superchips tuning, but the PCM still needs to adapt to those new instructions. Remember, adaptive strategy is still at work, we don't defeat any of that, so the motor will, for about the first 350-500 miles, pick up a bit more power as the PCM "adapts" to it's new programming, so to speak.
I hope that info helps & congrats on nailing the TPS voltage!
Excellent, glad to see you got your TPS voltage set to 0.994 (watch the decimal place, you don't want to every hit 1.0 volt or higher with the key on, engine off
), that's as perfect as you can get. We'll take anything in the 0.96-0.99 volt range, with 0.99 being ideal, so it sounds like you did a very nice job.With regard to filing a "notch," that is sometimes needed depending on how far off it is, and sometimes not needed - and we're talking about just filing a notch in the plastic TPS "housing," for lack of a better term, on one of the screw points, basically, to give more effective adjustment "range." It's the same basic procedure for both Lightnings & "regular" F-150's, but they do have completely different throttle bodies, of course.
To answer your question about what other performance mods you can do and still use the Micro Tuner, here they are: Intake kits, cat-back exhaust systems, electric fans, underdrive pulleys, larger throttle bodies - and sometimes, even shorty headers.
Mods like blowers, nitrous, ported heads, camshaft changes, a different MAF (mass airflow meter/sensor) or larger fuel injectors are generally the types of mods you will need *custom* engine tuning to compensate for in the 1997-2003 non-Lightning F-150's & Expeditions, just to give you a rough idea.
If there is anything in particular you are thinking about & want to know if it will be OK with the Micro tuner, please feel free to give us ac all & we can go over all of that with you in detail.
With regard to clearing the PCM after installing most of the more common bolt-on modifications, you can do that if you like, but that is not generally *required*. Now many people *do* clear the PCM after installing a new intake, or a new exhaust system, etc., and that will allow the PCM to adapt to certain changes a bit quicker - but that will happen anyway even if you do not clear the PCM, so whether you do that or not is up to you.
One last point, about this issue of the "PCM adapting" to its new programming - the tuning is changed with the Superchips tuning, but the PCM still needs to adapt to those new instructions. Remember, adaptive strategy is still at work, we don't defeat any of that, so the motor will, for about the first 350-500 miles, pick up a bit more power as the PCM "adapts" to it's new programming, so to speak.
I hope that info helps & congrats on nailing the TPS voltage!
Mike
Thanks for clearing up the "notch" thing. Now I understand.
I got the whole install order thing opposite of what I intended, but in the end it doesn't matter anyway. I set the TPS thinking I was about to put the intake on but the fittings that fit on my '98 F-150 don't work on the 2003 F-150 (I had this intake on my last truck). Volant is sending me some hose and fittings, which is cool.
So that got set aside and on went the Magnaflow exhaust. Next is the SC Tuner and then the intake when I get the parts. I'll drop the TPS down to .989 to be safe. I gave myself 5 mils of tolerance but I'll up it to 10.
Your list of mods helps me plan the next mod realistically. I hate planning a mod only to find out I need to do something else to make it really work.
Thanks for clearing up the PCM issue too. I have never seen an estimated mileage required for the PCM to adapt. It won't take much time to put that milage on the truck.
You should maintain a FAQ's section on your specialty products because I'm sure you have answered these questions before.
As usual you have come through with complete and understandable answers. Thanks for your time.
Thanks for clearing up the "notch" thing. Now I understand.
I got the whole install order thing opposite of what I intended, but in the end it doesn't matter anyway. I set the TPS thinking I was about to put the intake on but the fittings that fit on my '98 F-150 don't work on the 2003 F-150 (I had this intake on my last truck). Volant is sending me some hose and fittings, which is cool.
So that got set aside and on went the Magnaflow exhaust. Next is the SC Tuner and then the intake when I get the parts. I'll drop the TPS down to .989 to be safe. I gave myself 5 mils of tolerance but I'll up it to 10.
Your list of mods helps me plan the next mod realistically. I hate planning a mod only to find out I need to do something else to make it really work.
Thanks for clearing up the PCM issue too. I have never seen an estimated mileage required for the PCM to adapt. It won't take much time to put that milage on the truck.
You should maintain a FAQ's section on your specialty products because I'm sure you have answered these questions before.
As usual you have come through with complete and understandable answers. Thanks for your time.
Hi Redbuck50,
Well, you know what they say about the best laid plans.....Murphy's Law is always there for a "gotcha." As you said, it won't matter what order you do those particular mods in, the end result will be the same.
>>>I'll drop the TPS down to .989 to be safe. I gave myself 5 mils of tolerance but I'll up it to 10. <<<
This is strictly up to you - it's probably fine like it is, you can always plug in a scan tool and check to see that the PCM still thinks it's in idle, and not "part-throttle," for example. As long as the PCM thinks the motor is at idle, that 0.994 is fine - if you;re not getting any obvious symptoms, like having to apply more brake to keep the vehicle from creeping thru a light, or an increased idle speed, then your current setting is fine - so it's up to you. Very nice to see you taking the time to be so precise - looks like you're taking that kind of approach to all your mods, by doing them one at a time, checking it out etc., and then proceeding on to the next mod.
>>>You should maintain a FAQ's section on your specialty products because I'm sure you have answered these questions before. <<<
Actually, I'd like to have a FAQ on say, the Top 100 questions here (like the Top 100 most frequently asked) and my posts in response, to build a really thorough FAQ. Over the 5-6 years we have been here, we have covered so very many things that it would be a significant FAQ - I'd love to have that to post on our web site. If I had the time I would do it myself, but I just don't, unfortunately. I take the spare few minutes I have each day (or can make) to answer what I can here, do it as quick as I can, and then get on to everything else we have to do.......
I have one idea as to how that could get done - if anyone (anyone capable, of course) would like to make a little $$ on the side spending time searching out the best questions & my responses, we could get that FAQ built...... anyone interested in participating can give us a call & we can go over that - realistically, that's about the only way for us to make that happen at this time.
Thanks for your response & your suggestions, & best of luck!
Well, you know what they say about the best laid plans.....Murphy's Law is always there for a "gotcha." As you said, it won't matter what order you do those particular mods in, the end result will be the same.

>>>I'll drop the TPS down to .989 to be safe. I gave myself 5 mils of tolerance but I'll up it to 10. <<<
This is strictly up to you - it's probably fine like it is, you can always plug in a scan tool and check to see that the PCM still thinks it's in idle, and not "part-throttle," for example. As long as the PCM thinks the motor is at idle, that 0.994 is fine - if you;re not getting any obvious symptoms, like having to apply more brake to keep the vehicle from creeping thru a light, or an increased idle speed, then your current setting is fine - so it's up to you. Very nice to see you taking the time to be so precise - looks like you're taking that kind of approach to all your mods, by doing them one at a time, checking it out etc., and then proceeding on to the next mod.
>>>You should maintain a FAQ's section on your specialty products because I'm sure you have answered these questions before. <<<
Actually, I'd like to have a FAQ on say, the Top 100 questions here (like the Top 100 most frequently asked) and my posts in response, to build a really thorough FAQ. Over the 5-6 years we have been here, we have covered so very many things that it would be a significant FAQ - I'd love to have that to post on our web site. If I had the time I would do it myself, but I just don't, unfortunately. I take the spare few minutes I have each day (or can make) to answer what I can here, do it as quick as I can, and then get on to everything else we have to do.......
I have one idea as to how that could get done - if anyone (anyone capable, of course) would like to make a little $$ on the side spending time searching out the best questions & my responses, we could get that FAQ built...... anyone interested in participating can give us a call & we can go over that - realistically, that's about the only way for us to make that happen at this time.

Thanks for your response & your suggestions, & best of luck!


