Calling Dr. Troyer...
Hello again Mike and F-150 fans.
Thank you for returning my calls and just so the rest of the population knows, Mike IS reachable and you WILL be forwarded to him, if your question is too technical for others to answer.
Mike, I finally got a reading on my Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) and it was just as you thought. It was reading low at 0.895. I couldn't get a reading with the probes I was using so I had to resort to a "MacGyver" method. I used 3 test leads (a single wire with alligator clips on both ends) and used these between the sensor and the (unplugged) socket. Being very careful to insulate between the clips with tape, I was then able to turn the key on, with engine off, and use my volt meter to get an easy read. I found that by loosening both TPS mounting screws, I was able to rock the sensor slightly and determine that, to increase the voltage, I needed to turn it clockwise. I accomplished this by re-tightening the bottom screw snugly and then taking readings as I rotated the sensor, a little at a time. It took less than 1/8 of an inch to get the proper reading (0.985) and then carefully tightening both mounting screws, bottom first, while checking voltage as I went. Make sure you turn off the key BEFORE you disconnect the jumpers, as any contact between the clips could result in a short and blown fuse OR damaged sensor.
DISCLAIMER: I do NOT recommend this method of voltage testing because of the high potential for trouble and or damage.
While correcting the voltage to the TPS did not fully remove the off idle bog, it did substantially improve it, with throttle response being much improved.
I just have to hook up the SuperChips Tuner and install the full performance program and I am ready to go burn some rubber
.
Thanks again Mike for your help and the effort that you put into this site. I really appreciate it.
Cheers,
Lonster
Thank you for returning my calls and just so the rest of the population knows, Mike IS reachable and you WILL be forwarded to him, if your question is too technical for others to answer.
Mike, I finally got a reading on my Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) and it was just as you thought. It was reading low at 0.895. I couldn't get a reading with the probes I was using so I had to resort to a "MacGyver" method. I used 3 test leads (a single wire with alligator clips on both ends) and used these between the sensor and the (unplugged) socket. Being very careful to insulate between the clips with tape, I was then able to turn the key on, with engine off, and use my volt meter to get an easy read. I found that by loosening both TPS mounting screws, I was able to rock the sensor slightly and determine that, to increase the voltage, I needed to turn it clockwise. I accomplished this by re-tightening the bottom screw snugly and then taking readings as I rotated the sensor, a little at a time. It took less than 1/8 of an inch to get the proper reading (0.985) and then carefully tightening both mounting screws, bottom first, while checking voltage as I went. Make sure you turn off the key BEFORE you disconnect the jumpers, as any contact between the clips could result in a short and blown fuse OR damaged sensor.
DISCLAIMER: I do NOT recommend this method of voltage testing because of the high potential for trouble and or damage.
While correcting the voltage to the TPS did not fully remove the off idle bog, it did substantially improve it, with throttle response being much improved.
I just have to hook up the SuperChips Tuner and install the full performance program and I am ready to go burn some rubber
.Thanks again Mike for your help and the effort that you put into this site. I really appreciate it.
Cheers,
Lonster
Last edited by Lonster; Oct 28, 2003 at 07:20 PM.
Hi Lonster,
Excellent - once the reading was taken with the engine off instead of running, you were able to get to an accurate reading & see just what's really going on there.
What you found is absolutely typical, that's just what we usually find.
I'm glad you were able to get that adjusted to improve the throttle response - and I agree, that sometimes doesn't completely *cure* that, but it sure does help and noticeably so. It's a common driveability tweak we've been using for years & years.
Glad that is taken care of, now you can install the Micro Tuner & start enjoying that last piece of the picture, so to speak - that truck will respond nicely.
By the way, thanks *very* much for your detailed description of the procedure you used, and especially for the IMPORTANT WARNING about being very careful with the leads & turning the ignition back off BEFORE disconnecting those leads, making sure not to touch (jump) the leads, etc. That is very important when using a voltmeter as opposed to a diagnostic tool plugged into the OBD-II port!
Have fun!
Excellent - once the reading was taken with the engine off instead of running, you were able to get to an accurate reading & see just what's really going on there.
What you found is absolutely typical, that's just what we usually find.
I'm glad you were able to get that adjusted to improve the throttle response - and I agree, that sometimes doesn't completely *cure* that, but it sure does help and noticeably so. It's a common driveability tweak we've been using for years & years.
Glad that is taken care of, now you can install the Micro Tuner & start enjoying that last piece of the picture, so to speak - that truck will respond nicely.

By the way, thanks *very* much for your detailed description of the procedure you used, and especially for the IMPORTANT WARNING about being very careful with the leads & turning the ignition back off BEFORE disconnecting those leads, making sure not to touch (jump) the leads, etc. That is very important when using a voltmeter as opposed to a diagnostic tool plugged into the OBD-II port!
Have fun!
Mike,
I agree as well it is hard to get to you, but in part of this post you said you sometimes have to talk to people about more complex tuning issues.
I spoke to you a few weeks ago about swapping out a 4.6 to a 5.4 from a 1998 F150 4X4. I purchased the 5.4 from KarKraft. It is a new 5.4 with PI heads which was manufactured on 5/23/2000 which makes it a 2001 model year (I think). We talked about swapping the PCM, but in conversations on another thread, I found out there would be many complications in swapping the PCM. Ultimately we came up with keeping my original PCM and using my 4.6 wiring harness on the 5.4. I will not be using the COP that came with the 5.4, just changing to Coil Packs and Plugs from the old 4.6.
You had suggested me getting the new MicroTuner which you could program for the 5.4 with the PI heads. The other mods I have are K&N FIPK, and Magnaflow Cat Back 3" system. I don't plan on adding headers at this time.
I left a message for you this morning with my cell phone number and would love to get this purchased. I have the new motor in the engine compartment and should have it running this weekend. I look forward to purchasing this system from you and can't wait to see the difference in performance of my truck with the 5.4.
Thanks,
Steve Clime
I agree as well it is hard to get to you, but in part of this post you said you sometimes have to talk to people about more complex tuning issues.
I spoke to you a few weeks ago about swapping out a 4.6 to a 5.4 from a 1998 F150 4X4. I purchased the 5.4 from KarKraft. It is a new 5.4 with PI heads which was manufactured on 5/23/2000 which makes it a 2001 model year (I think). We talked about swapping the PCM, but in conversations on another thread, I found out there would be many complications in swapping the PCM. Ultimately we came up with keeping my original PCM and using my 4.6 wiring harness on the 5.4. I will not be using the COP that came with the 5.4, just changing to Coil Packs and Plugs from the old 4.6.
You had suggested me getting the new MicroTuner which you could program for the 5.4 with the PI heads. The other mods I have are K&N FIPK, and Magnaflow Cat Back 3" system. I don't plan on adding headers at this time.
I left a message for you this morning with my cell phone number and would love to get this purchased. I have the new motor in the engine compartment and should have it running this weekend. I look forward to purchasing this system from you and can't wait to see the difference in performance of my truck with the 5.4.
Thanks,
Steve Clime
Hi Steve,
Good talking with you again today.
As we discussed, we are the very first general release site for the new Superchips Custom Tuning setup, and our whole package should ship out somewhere between Thursday & Friday, and then we'll get it within a couple of days after that.
Once I get it loaded up & get a chance to take a look at whatever computer code your truck has, then I;ll let you know just what kind of timeframe we're looking at to get this done for you.
As we discussed, PATS is not an issue until the 1999 model year, so using a 1998 5.4 PCM would have worked - but I like the way you're doing it now, using the "conventional" 4.6 ignition setup & PCM with a few alterations to the wiring harness. It'll be interesting to see how this all works out - most engine swaps aren't for the kind of practical purpose you're doing, to get more torque for towing, it's almost always for all-out performance, a drag strip car, etc.
If this works out smoothly, this may provide an impetus for more 4.6 owners to swap out for the 5.4 for the additional lower-rpm torque.
At any rate, let us know what you find for the compute code, and then as soon as we are actually up & running with this new setup, we'll talk again as to timeframe, etc.
Good luck!
Good talking with you again today.
As we discussed, we are the very first general release site for the new Superchips Custom Tuning setup, and our whole package should ship out somewhere between Thursday & Friday, and then we'll get it within a couple of days after that.
Once I get it loaded up & get a chance to take a look at whatever computer code your truck has, then I;ll let you know just what kind of timeframe we're looking at to get this done for you.
As we discussed, PATS is not an issue until the 1999 model year, so using a 1998 5.4 PCM would have worked - but I like the way you're doing it now, using the "conventional" 4.6 ignition setup & PCM with a few alterations to the wiring harness. It'll be interesting to see how this all works out - most engine swaps aren't for the kind of practical purpose you're doing, to get more torque for towing, it's almost always for all-out performance, a drag strip car, etc.
If this works out smoothly, this may provide an impetus for more 4.6 owners to swap out for the 5.4 for the additional lower-rpm torque.
At any rate, let us know what you find for the compute code, and then as soon as we are actually up & running with this new setup, we'll talk again as to timeframe, etc.
Good luck!
Mike,
I got the PCM code for you. Sorry I did not get it until this morning. Please let me know what you can do for me on the chip burn with the new software. I will be looking forward to hearing from you.
Thanks,
Steve
PCM Code
F0U1
I got the PCM code for you. Sorry I did not get it until this morning. Please let me know what you can do for me on the chip burn with the new software. I will be looking forward to hearing from you.
Thanks,
Steve
PCM Code
F0U1
Hi Steve,
My apologies as I don't have your number handy (I know you called yesterday), give me a shout again when you can (say, maybe Monday?), so we can go over a couple of things & get your 5.4 motor into that FOU1 4.6 F-150 swap tuning taken care of!
Talk to you soon!
My apologies as I don't have your number handy (I know you called yesterday), give me a shout again when you can (say, maybe Monday?), so we can go over a couple of things & get your 5.4 motor into that FOU1 4.6 F-150 swap tuning taken care of!

Talk to you soon!
Mike,
Just got of the phone with Jim Ferraro at Superchips. We are working on the program for my truck. He wants me to have a dyno run on it and at least get wideband AFR numbers for him so he or you can correct for it. I have a bad O2 sensor and will be changing that tonight. I have a place within a half hour of my house where I can get the dyno and AFR done.
I will forward the numbers to you as soon as I have them. Let me know if you need anything else.
Thanks,
Steve Clime
1998 F150 with 2001 5.4 PI Heads
Just got of the phone with Jim Ferraro at Superchips. We are working on the program for my truck. He wants me to have a dyno run on it and at least get wideband AFR numbers for him so he or you can correct for it. I have a bad O2 sensor and will be changing that tonight. I have a place within a half hour of my house where I can get the dyno and AFR done.
I will forward the numbers to you as soon as I have them. Let me know if you need anything else.
Thanks,
Steve Clime
1998 F150 with 2001 5.4 PI Heads
Hi Steve,
Yes, we've been talking about you a good deal here lately!
Jim is a good guy, and I've gone over with him in detail about your tuning needs & what's going on here, and I asked him to call you directly yesterday - he also made sure that the receptionist in their new building (they just starting moving Friday into a huge new facility) would put your return call to Jim right thru to him - the new building still has some phone line, fax line, etc. little bugs to get worked out, etc., as they just built another brand new building down there.
Thanks for calling me today as well, so we could go over all of this, and I'm glad you found a dyno close by - excellent! If that dyno facility has a diagnostic tool, in addition to the wideband O2 for A/F ratios at both WOT (wide-open throttle) *and* during cruise (say, just "cruising" at 70 mph in Overdrive on the dyno), I would also like to see the following data logged during the dyno pulls:
1.) MAF voltage & flow rate (#'s of air)
2.) Engine timing
3.) Short-term fuel trims
4.) Engine Coolant Temperature
5.) Inlet Air Temperature (IAT) - this is sometimes called "ACT," for "Air Charge Temperature" - means the same thing.
6.) Load (ve)
Now it's not the end of the world if they cannot data log those additional data streams for us - though any competent dyno facility really should easily be able to do this, many still don't, unfortunately - which says a lot about the individual facility. If we don't get that data, it's not a make or break deal, it's just very helpful for us to be able to see just what's going on there, even when still using the stock MAF & injectors, etc.
I enjoyed talking with you again today, Steve - as usual.
This is a fun project, & we should have you taken care of here pretty quickly once we get that data. Oh, by the way - just so we'll know before any tuning changes, please let me know how it runs once you've had a chance to double-check all the various connections, vacuum hoses, fittings, etc. and have those 2 upstream O2 sensors replaced, OK? Thanks!
Also, let me know if you need (or want) me to speak with your dyno facility - I am leaving here Sunday to go back down to Florida (going to Superchips again next week), but our staff can reach me during that time and I can always call them (or anyone else) back during that time if need be.
Talk to you soon, Steve!
Yes, we've been talking about you a good deal here lately!
Jim is a good guy, and I've gone over with him in detail about your tuning needs & what's going on here, and I asked him to call you directly yesterday - he also made sure that the receptionist in their new building (they just starting moving Friday into a huge new facility) would put your return call to Jim right thru to him - the new building still has some phone line, fax line, etc. little bugs to get worked out, etc., as they just built another brand new building down there.
Thanks for calling me today as well, so we could go over all of this, and I'm glad you found a dyno close by - excellent! If that dyno facility has a diagnostic tool, in addition to the wideband O2 for A/F ratios at both WOT (wide-open throttle) *and* during cruise (say, just "cruising" at 70 mph in Overdrive on the dyno), I would also like to see the following data logged during the dyno pulls:
1.) MAF voltage & flow rate (#'s of air)
2.) Engine timing
3.) Short-term fuel trims
4.) Engine Coolant Temperature
5.) Inlet Air Temperature (IAT) - this is sometimes called "ACT," for "Air Charge Temperature" - means the same thing.
6.) Load (ve)
Now it's not the end of the world if they cannot data log those additional data streams for us - though any competent dyno facility really should easily be able to do this, many still don't, unfortunately - which says a lot about the individual facility. If we don't get that data, it's not a make or break deal, it's just very helpful for us to be able to see just what's going on there, even when still using the stock MAF & injectors, etc.
I enjoyed talking with you again today, Steve - as usual.
This is a fun project, & we should have you taken care of here pretty quickly once we get that data. Oh, by the way - just so we'll know before any tuning changes, please let me know how it runs once you've had a chance to double-check all the various connections, vacuum hoses, fittings, etc. and have those 2 upstream O2 sensors replaced, OK? Thanks!Also, let me know if you need (or want) me to speak with your dyno facility - I am leaving here Sunday to go back down to Florida (going to Superchips again next week), but our staff can reach me during that time and I can always call them (or anyone else) back during that time if need be.
Talk to you soon, Steve!
Thanks for the info. Mike.
I will get as much info. as I can from the dyno.
I swapped both O2 sensors tonight and have driven it 20+ miles with no additional codes. I also discovered my rough idle was due to a spark plug wire loose. Fixed that and idle's nice now.
When cruising around 1500 rpm 55/60mph I get the vibration. This is letting the trans go into overdrive. If I override overdrive, the vibration goes mostly away. I am then running in the 2200 - 2500+ rpm range. Under heavy acceleration, I again get the vibration and seems a little rough running.
Hope this info. helps.
Thanks for your time today. You have a wealth of knowledge and it is great that you share so much of it with the rest of us.
Looking forward to talking with you after the dyno run next week.
Thanks,
Steve
I will get as much info. as I can from the dyno.
I swapped both O2 sensors tonight and have driven it 20+ miles with no additional codes. I also discovered my rough idle was due to a spark plug wire loose. Fixed that and idle's nice now.
When cruising around 1500 rpm 55/60mph I get the vibration. This is letting the trans go into overdrive. If I override overdrive, the vibration goes mostly away. I am then running in the 2200 - 2500+ rpm range. Under heavy acceleration, I again get the vibration and seems a little rough running.
Hope this info. helps.
Thanks for your time today. You have a wealth of knowledge and it is great that you share so much of it with the rest of us.
Looking forward to talking with you after the dyno run next week.
Thanks,
Steve
Mike,
I faxed you the dyno sheets last week. I know you were in Florida so thought I'd check up to see what the status is on my chip. Right now the truck idles fine and still has a vibration around 1200 to 2000rpm especially when in overdrive. If you take it out of overdrive, and cruise around 2500 to 3000rpm it smoothes out. I know the dyno showed a very high AFR of 17.00:1 at cruise so I expect the virbration is caused by the lean condition. I have since cleared the P1131 code by replacing the O2 sensors. I did replace them with BOSH so they should be quality.
Please let me know if you need any further information and let me know when the chip ships.
Thanks,
Steve
I faxed you the dyno sheets last week. I know you were in Florida so thought I'd check up to see what the status is on my chip. Right now the truck idles fine and still has a vibration around 1200 to 2000rpm especially when in overdrive. If you take it out of overdrive, and cruise around 2500 to 3000rpm it smoothes out. I know the dyno showed a very high AFR of 17.00:1 at cruise so I expect the virbration is caused by the lean condition. I have since cleared the P1131 code by replacing the O2 sensors. I did replace them with BOSH so they should be quality.
Please let me know if you need any further information and let me know when the chip ships.
Thanks,
Steve
Mike,
Glad you are feeling better. I have been fighting a sinus infection for the last three weeks so have been down and out too.
In my previous post to this thread, I had faxed to you the dyno sheets from my 98 F150 4.6 which I have converted to the 2001 5.4. Just checking in to see if you need anything else before you burn the chip. I have really missed driving my truck, and since it is running so lean it has been parked since before Christmas.
Can you give me an idea when you will have a chance to look at the programming. Let me know if you want me to give you a call first.
Thanks,
Steve
1998 F150 4X4 Xcab 4.6 swapped out for 2001 5.4
Glad you are feeling better. I have been fighting a sinus infection for the last three weeks so have been down and out too.
In my previous post to this thread, I had faxed to you the dyno sheets from my 98 F150 4.6 which I have converted to the 2001 5.4. Just checking in to see if you need anything else before you burn the chip. I have really missed driving my truck, and since it is running so lean it has been parked since before Christmas.
Can you give me an idea when you will have a chance to look at the programming. Let me know if you want me to give you a call first.
Thanks,
Steve
1998 F150 4X4 Xcab 4.6 swapped out for 2001 5.4


