Mike, quick question please?
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Joined: Jul 2000
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From: MD
Mike, quick question please?
Mike,
I just bought the plasma booster you sell, and a set of plugs. IT16. Thanks for the quick delivery. Anyway, what should I gap them to? and what is your take on dielectric usage?
The Truck is a 5.4 Screw, Magnaflow exhaust, K&N FIPK, Superchip. This winter I plan on doing pulley's and Fan's.
Thanks, for your help
Rick
I just bought the plasma booster you sell, and a set of plugs. IT16. Thanks for the quick delivery. Anyway, what should I gap them to? and what is your take on dielectric usage?
The Truck is a 5.4 Screw, Magnaflow exhaust, K&N FIPK, Superchip. This winter I plan on doing pulley's and Fan's.
Thanks, for your help
Rick
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Joined: Mar 1998
Posts: 13,385
Likes: 4
From: Virginia
Hi Rick,
In some of the factory specs they say to go all the way up to .050 - however, in our experience, since you are in the Mid-Atlantic like we are, you will be subjected to extremely high humidity levels from time to time no matter where you are in Maryland (MD) - in some cases well in excess of 90%. In those conditions, a plug gap of .040 will fire the plugs cleanly all the way up to redline rpms with the IT-16's.
Because your motor is not supercharged, you may be able to get away with .044, and feel free to try that if you like - the bigger gap you can fire, the more power you make until you go too far, of course.
The real test will be on high humidity days, if it will still pull cleanly at full-throttle all the way to redline rpms in 3rd gear - at which point you're hauling some serious speeds of course, so be careful if you decide to try that - that's what we look at for "the test" under worst conditions.
Yes, we *do* advise the use of dialectric grease (sparingly). We also advise the use of anti-seize on the spark plug threads, as these are aluminum cylinder heads - just a dab will do.
When gapping your plugs, do not use any "graduated" gapping tool or device to measure the gap - use individual feeler gauges, as the graduated gap measuring tools (round or straight) will give a different gap on one side of the electrode from the other - and gap needs to be even, so just use traditional feeler gauges for measuring the gap. One last tip is do NOT put any sideways pressure on the firing tip (as so often happens just as second nature in the gapping process sometimes), as it's fragile in that regard - when adjusting the gap, do it by *not* touching the actual firing tip at all, just move the ground electrode as necessary - and check carefully with feeler gauges.
Good luck & have fun!
In some of the factory specs they say to go all the way up to .050 - however, in our experience, since you are in the Mid-Atlantic like we are, you will be subjected to extremely high humidity levels from time to time no matter where you are in Maryland (MD) - in some cases well in excess of 90%. In those conditions, a plug gap of .040 will fire the plugs cleanly all the way up to redline rpms with the IT-16's.
Because your motor is not supercharged, you may be able to get away with .044, and feel free to try that if you like - the bigger gap you can fire, the more power you make until you go too far, of course.
The real test will be on high humidity days, if it will still pull cleanly at full-throttle all the way to redline rpms in 3rd gear - at which point you're hauling some serious speeds of course, so be careful if you decide to try that - that's what we look at for "the test" under worst conditions.Yes, we *do* advise the use of dialectric grease (sparingly). We also advise the use of anti-seize on the spark plug threads, as these are aluminum cylinder heads - just a dab will do.
When gapping your plugs, do not use any "graduated" gapping tool or device to measure the gap - use individual feeler gauges, as the graduated gap measuring tools (round or straight) will give a different gap on one side of the electrode from the other - and gap needs to be even, so just use traditional feeler gauges for measuring the gap. One last tip is do NOT put any sideways pressure on the firing tip (as so often happens just as second nature in the gapping process sometimes), as it's fragile in that regard - when adjusting the gap, do it by *not* touching the actual firing tip at all, just move the ground electrode as necessary - and check carefully with feeler gauges.
Good luck & have fun!