Microtuner custom settings for 35's
Microtuner custom settings for 35's
I have 35's on my truck and stock 3.55 gears, i got a microtuner 1715 and i talked to a local mechanic and he said that the program that the tuner has isnt the best and that it would be better to custom do it and set the shift points yourself. what do yall think, he said he would help me do it but dont yall think the superchip program would be the best? also if not, is it easy enough to set the shift point yourself and if anyone has done it to there 5.4, 3.55, f-150 w/ 35's give me the specs that you set yours at..
thanks
thanks
Hi big,
Those shift points are already optimized when you take the default tuning in the Micro Tuner - and those shift points are *not* the same for every truck by the way, not by a long shot - that depends on year, configuration, engine, and several other aspects.
In fact, we recommend just the *opposite* - recalibrate the speedometer first, and then run it for at least a month with the shift points it has already optimized, otherwise you have absolutely *no* basis for comparison, as they aren't stock when you take the defaults in the Micro Tuner.
You may already be aware of this (and if so, forgive me!), but just in case, until you change to 4.56 gears to run those 35" tires, you will always be lugging that engine way below it's power band - at any speed, in any gear, all the time - and performance will be way off as a result, fuel mileage will suffer as well. None of that will be fixed by altering shift points of course, only a gear ratio change (or going back to shorter tires) will allow the engine to turn the rpms it should so performance will be what it's supposed to be. Of course, we all have to do what we have to do & work within our budgets!
Recalibrate your speedometer correctly with the Micro Tuner, and the shift points will automatically be "fixed" from how far off they are now with the stock program, 3.55 gears & 35" tires. It's a VSS-dependent system, so restoring speedo accuracy also generally "fixes" the gross shift point deficits caused by large speedometer errors induced by big tires and/or gear ratio changes.
It's up to you of course, but I'd suggest first fixing the speedometer calibration with the Micro Tuner (and please, make sure to actually *measure* your tire height, don't just assume they are actually 35.0" tall), and then drive it for a little while so you can see just where the shift points actually *are*, before deciding they actually need to be changed - the point of reference is the shift points in the default tuning, so if you don't try those, you have no basis for comparison & thus will never know how it drives with the shift points Superchips has already done. Just FYI.............
Best of luck whatever you decide to do,
Those shift points are already optimized when you take the default tuning in the Micro Tuner - and those shift points are *not* the same for every truck by the way, not by a long shot - that depends on year, configuration, engine, and several other aspects.
In fact, we recommend just the *opposite* - recalibrate the speedometer first, and then run it for at least a month with the shift points it has already optimized, otherwise you have absolutely *no* basis for comparison, as they aren't stock when you take the defaults in the Micro Tuner.
You may already be aware of this (and if so, forgive me!), but just in case, until you change to 4.56 gears to run those 35" tires, you will always be lugging that engine way below it's power band - at any speed, in any gear, all the time - and performance will be way off as a result, fuel mileage will suffer as well. None of that will be fixed by altering shift points of course, only a gear ratio change (or going back to shorter tires) will allow the engine to turn the rpms it should so performance will be what it's supposed to be. Of course, we all have to do what we have to do & work within our budgets!

Recalibrate your speedometer correctly with the Micro Tuner, and the shift points will automatically be "fixed" from how far off they are now with the stock program, 3.55 gears & 35" tires. It's a VSS-dependent system, so restoring speedo accuracy also generally "fixes" the gross shift point deficits caused by large speedometer errors induced by big tires and/or gear ratio changes.
It's up to you of course, but I'd suggest first fixing the speedometer calibration with the Micro Tuner (and please, make sure to actually *measure* your tire height, don't just assume they are actually 35.0" tall), and then drive it for a little while so you can see just where the shift points actually *are*, before deciding they actually need to be changed - the point of reference is the shift points in the default tuning, so if you don't try those, you have no basis for comparison & thus will never know how it drives with the shift points Superchips has already done. Just FYI.............

Best of luck whatever you decide to do,
Tuner with 35's
I've got the same setup you're talking about. Of course, like Mike said, actually measure your tire. I was in a big rush to get my Tuner installed and just put in 34.5" as the tire height from the BFG website. Actually it wound up being 33.75"!!!
I drove with the Superchips shift point settings for awhile to test them out. I didn't like how early it shifted, especially in that 3-4 shift at mild throttle position. I decided to bump the points up some to this:
1-2 stock
2-3 halfway between stock and max
3-4 max
The nice thing with the 3-4 setting is it will stay in 3rd longer, especially under mild throttle push. The bad thing is sometimes it will stay in 3rd till 50 mph and then drop straight into 4th (at like 1200 RPM). Of course, by no means are my shift points the best ones - just something I've experimented with.
Anyway, I agree with Mike. Give it some time and then adjust. Just remember, the Tuner can only do so much - regearing is the only way to really return to stock performance. Good luck -
Mike
I drove with the Superchips shift point settings for awhile to test them out. I didn't like how early it shifted, especially in that 3-4 shift at mild throttle position. I decided to bump the points up some to this:
1-2 stock
2-3 halfway between stock and max
3-4 max
The nice thing with the 3-4 setting is it will stay in 3rd longer, especially under mild throttle push. The bad thing is sometimes it will stay in 3rd till 50 mph and then drop straight into 4th (at like 1200 RPM). Of course, by no means are my shift points the best ones - just something I've experimented with.
Anyway, I agree with Mike. Give it some time and then adjust. Just remember, the Tuner can only do so much - regearing is the only way to really return to stock performance. Good luck -
Mike
thanks packager thats what i was looking for, damn im new to this site but i have been on ford truck world and a question like this would have no chance of gettin answered. ive found a new site..
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i set all the shifts at the middle of stock and max and i like it alot the only reason i put them there is because i didnt really know what i was doing and wanted to try it out.. any other members got there settings they put theres on?


