o2 sensor replacement interval? mike troyer
o2 sensor replacement interval? mike troyer
hey mike, jason here. havent talked to you in a while!
quick ? for you. how often do you recommend that the o2 sensors be replaced?
i'm not sure if you remember, but i have a 00 with a 5.4l with just about every bolt on that is made for our trucks!!
i have 65000miles on mine now.
thanks mike,
jason
quick ? for you. how often do you recommend that the o2 sensors be replaced?
i'm not sure if you remember, but i have a 00 with a 5.4l with just about every bolt on that is made for our trucks!!
i have 65000miles on mine now.
thanks mike,
jason
Hi Jason,
Nice to see you again!
This is an *excellent* question, as contrary to the automaker's maintenence schedules which don't even list O2 sensors at all, O2 sensors are in fact a wear & tear item that start deteriorating from the minute they are put into service.
We recommend replacement at 30K to not more than 50K miles.
Unfortunately, most people completely ignore them until they have a problem or check engine light, because none of the automakers puts them on their maintenance schedule, and that is done because then the automakers would be *liable* for replacing them under the emissions warranty, which is 50K miles currently, and lawmakers are trying to extend that to 100K miles.
Neat little trick, eh? The automakers simply don't list them on maint. schedules at all, thus avoiding that issue, but also in effect teaching people to ignore them.
But of course, automakers don't make O2 sensors, Ford gets them from Bosch for example, and if you ask Bosch directly, they will tell you their service life is 30K-50K miles.
In a daily driver, a 50K mile replacement interval for the O2's is generally going to be OK. And you don't have to replace all 4 O2 sensors in the 1996 & newer OBD0II vehicles, you only need to replace the 2 upstream O2's, which is the O2 sensor that is closest to the engine on each side of the motor (in V6's, V8's & V10's). The 2 downstream O2's are there just to check for catalytic covnerter presence & function, and are not used by the PCM for A/F ratio feedback control.
So at 65K miles, it's time to replace them, and we recomend using the Bosch units.
Good luck!
Nice to see you again!
This is an *excellent* question, as contrary to the automaker's maintenence schedules which don't even list O2 sensors at all, O2 sensors are in fact a wear & tear item that start deteriorating from the minute they are put into service.
We recommend replacement at 30K to not more than 50K miles.
Unfortunately, most people completely ignore them until they have a problem or check engine light, because none of the automakers puts them on their maintenance schedule, and that is done because then the automakers would be *liable* for replacing them under the emissions warranty, which is 50K miles currently, and lawmakers are trying to extend that to 100K miles.
Neat little trick, eh? The automakers simply don't list them on maint. schedules at all, thus avoiding that issue, but also in effect teaching people to ignore them.But of course, automakers don't make O2 sensors, Ford gets them from Bosch for example, and if you ask Bosch directly, they will tell you their service life is 30K-50K miles.
In a daily driver, a 50K mile replacement interval for the O2's is generally going to be OK. And you don't have to replace all 4 O2 sensors in the 1996 & newer OBD0II vehicles, you only need to replace the 2 upstream O2's, which is the O2 sensor that is closest to the engine on each side of the motor (in V6's, V8's & V10's). The 2 downstream O2's are there just to check for catalytic covnerter presence & function, and are not used by the PCM for A/F ratio feedback control.
So at 65K miles, it's time to replace them, and we recomend using the Bosch units.

Good luck!
If I am not mistaken, there is a Calibration Code on a white sticker. Atleast that is where mine is, it is on the driver's door on the latch part of the cab for the door. That is where I had to look at to get the correct O2 sensor for my truck. But than again, I only have 1 O2 sensor too for my year of truck. Not sure if it is in the same location on '96 and up vehicles. Mike, correct me if I am wrong. Once you have this code, you should be able to walk into most auto part stores, like 01 stated "Auto Zone", Pep Boys, Canadian Tire and numerous other locations. But like Mike said ask for Bosch, if they say another brand is better ... walk out. Bosch Rules in this case !!! Hope this helps.
Have Fun & Keep on Truckin'
Dean
Have Fun & Keep on Truckin'
Dean
Hi Everyone,
We recommend using Bosch O2 sensors, do *not* use other OEM's or any house brands, etc. Use the Bosch units.
You simply give your Ford parts counter or local parts store your vehicle info & they'll provide the correct O2. Usually the calibration doesn't matter in the late-model trucks, but that varies by manufacturer & vendor, and there are some changes that take effect as of a certain calibration, so you will sometimes run into that as IzzyEddy mentioned.
We get ours thru a special source, and use the same one in all our F-150's.
You can expect to pay anywhere from a low of about $70 to as much as $90 each for quality Bosch O2 sensors. In 1996 & newer vehicles, you only need 2, you don't have to replece all 4 unless you've got a local emissions problem. Just the 2 upstream units (the one closest to the engine on each "side" of the motor) need to be replaced, as only those 2 upstream units are used by the PCM for A/F ratio feedback control.
DON'T SCRIMP ON O2 SENSORS, steer clear of the cheap stuff!
Good luck!
We recommend using Bosch O2 sensors, do *not* use other OEM's or any house brands, etc. Use the Bosch units.
You simply give your Ford parts counter or local parts store your vehicle info & they'll provide the correct O2. Usually the calibration doesn't matter in the late-model trucks, but that varies by manufacturer & vendor, and there are some changes that take effect as of a certain calibration, so you will sometimes run into that as IzzyEddy mentioned.
We get ours thru a special source, and use the same one in all our F-150's.
You can expect to pay anywhere from a low of about $70 to as much as $90 each for quality Bosch O2 sensors. In 1996 & newer vehicles, you only need 2, you don't have to replece all 4 unless you've got a local emissions problem. Just the 2 upstream units (the one closest to the engine on each "side" of the motor) need to be replaced, as only those 2 upstream units are used by the PCM for A/F ratio feedback control.
DON'T SCRIMP ON O2 SENSORS, steer clear of the cheap stuff!

Good luck!
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for you all that have a 97 4.6l....
the number for a Bosch 02 is 15717 and 15718...the differance between the two is the length of the wire harness...other years may have a differant number so you know
I just replaced the 02 sensors on my '98 4.6 this weekend. My truck needed the Bosch 15717 (passenger side) and 15716 (driver side). They were $45 and $40 at Autozone.
I got very lucky and didn't have to get the special socket to remove the orginals, they came off rather easy just using an adjustable wrench.
I got very lucky and didn't have to get the special socket to remove the orginals, they came off rather easy just using an adjustable wrench.
After reading your conversation, I'm covinced that my next step is to replace the two upstream oxygen sensors...
My check engine light came on last week and at that very same moment the truck started running quite rough, jerking, both at idle and while coasting. The only time it would run smooth is if I stepped on it. I'm assuming it's mis-firing (I hope it's not the tranny...)...
Since, I've replaced plugs, plug wires ($85!!!) and fuel filter (thought I got some crappy fuel), but no use! The air-filter was replaced recently and I just inspected it ...looks clean.
The thing appears to be using slightly more gas than usual but I'm not sure about that. Somebody observed that the exhaust fumes have a fuel smell to them.
If the engine is mis-firing in the same cylinder, then I guess I've tracked it back to the coil packs on either side of the engine - don't know if those ever go bad...
If it's the oxy-sensors, I suppose the mis-firing would be random...
If anybody has good advice, please let me know before I put more cash into her...
Thanks much.
My check engine light came on last week and at that very same moment the truck started running quite rough, jerking, both at idle and while coasting. The only time it would run smooth is if I stepped on it. I'm assuming it's mis-firing (I hope it's not the tranny...)...
Since, I've replaced plugs, plug wires ($85!!!) and fuel filter (thought I got some crappy fuel), but no use! The air-filter was replaced recently and I just inspected it ...looks clean.
The thing appears to be using slightly more gas than usual but I'm not sure about that. Somebody observed that the exhaust fumes have a fuel smell to them.
If the engine is mis-firing in the same cylinder, then I guess I've tracked it back to the coil packs on either side of the engine - don't know if those ever go bad...
If it's the oxy-sensors, I suppose the mis-firing would be random...
If anybody has good advice, please let me know before I put more cash into her...
Thanks much.
Hi Swedish,
As Roushfan-1 mentioned in his response, the FIRST thing you need to do anytime you get an SES or Check Engine light on the dash is to SCAN THE PCM for codes.
Don't throw parts at it, don't guess, all of that is a waste of time as it's hit or miss. You may do some very much needed & great maint. in the process of throwing parts at it, and if you're willing to spend the money just from a maint. standpoint, that's fine. But you may not solve the problem that way at all, and will spend a lot of $$ going that route.
So first, I'd suggest getting to an AutoZone where they will scan that PCM for error codes free of charge, and then start your diagnosis from *there*. And remember, error codes don't just automatically tell you what's wrong and how to fix it, they simply tell you what *system* on the vehicle is reporting a problem. From there, proper diagnosis is still required, but you've got the knowledge of what system(s) is/are reporting the problem(s).
Your problem may very well be O2 sensors, but it could just as well be coil packs, plug wires, etc. Any 1997 vehicle running on the original ignition components (coil packs, plug wires & plugs) should replace all of that just from a maint. standpoint. Same thing with the upstream O2's, they need to be replaced as well.
But I wouldn't do that FIRST, I'd get the PCM scanned for error codes & see just what system is causing a check engine light, and take it from *there*.
Remember people, scanning the PCM for error codes is ALWAYS the first step that should be taken anytime you get an SES (Service Engine Soon) or "CE" (Check Engine) light on the dash. Don't guess, don't wait, scan the PCM FIRST, and then you're on your way to solving the problem.
Good luck!
As Roushfan-1 mentioned in his response, the FIRST thing you need to do anytime you get an SES or Check Engine light on the dash is to SCAN THE PCM for codes.
Don't throw parts at it, don't guess, all of that is a waste of time as it's hit or miss. You may do some very much needed & great maint. in the process of throwing parts at it, and if you're willing to spend the money just from a maint. standpoint, that's fine. But you may not solve the problem that way at all, and will spend a lot of $$ going that route.
So first, I'd suggest getting to an AutoZone where they will scan that PCM for error codes free of charge, and then start your diagnosis from *there*. And remember, error codes don't just automatically tell you what's wrong and how to fix it, they simply tell you what *system* on the vehicle is reporting a problem. From there, proper diagnosis is still required, but you've got the knowledge of what system(s) is/are reporting the problem(s).
Your problem may very well be O2 sensors, but it could just as well be coil packs, plug wires, etc. Any 1997 vehicle running on the original ignition components (coil packs, plug wires & plugs) should replace all of that just from a maint. standpoint. Same thing with the upstream O2's, they need to be replaced as well.
But I wouldn't do that FIRST, I'd get the PCM scanned for error codes & see just what system is causing a check engine light, and take it from *there*.
Remember people, scanning the PCM for error codes is ALWAYS the first step that should be taken anytime you get an SES (Service Engine Soon) or "CE" (Check Engine) light on the dash. Don't guess, don't wait, scan the PCM FIRST, and then you're on your way to solving the problem.

Good luck!


