Water Spots
Water Spots
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 456
Likes: 0
From: Calgay, Alberta, Canada
Water spots are always tough and always a problem. In my opinion there is really nothing you can do except keep it clean and dry it off as fast as you can right after cleaning. We seem to have harsh water here in Calgary also. Water spots are always showing up. I just try to give it a full drying. Sorry I couldn't give any actual advice, but i find thats the best way.
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 1,704
Likes: 0
From: Mpls, MN
Grrrrr!!!!Water spots are the only gripe I have with my trucks paint.
For water spots on the windshield I use #0000 steel wool. Removes all of the build-up.
I had water spots all over the right side bed panel last week and because they weren't too bad I was able to use "Hot" soapy water (actually very hot ) to get them off.
There was a post about a month ago about using filtered water for washing. The idea was that filtering out all of the minerals and added checmicals would keep water spots from appearing becase the water was cleaner. I purchased an in-line filter from an RV store a few days later an it actually worked really well. I found that the water that tends to run from my mirrors and down the doors didn't stain and didn't need to be wiped away. The water would just dry without leaving a trace. Looked great. This lasted through 2 washes and then it seems the filter died. Big waste and lesson learned.
I don't know any magic cure but the hot water may work and beyond that; once the water spots are gone I think we just have to do a good job of drying our trucks before the air does. Or use the spotless car wash
-Adam
For water spots on the windshield I use #0000 steel wool. Removes all of the build-up.
I had water spots all over the right side bed panel last week and because they weren't too bad I was able to use "Hot" soapy water (actually very hot ) to get them off.
There was a post about a month ago about using filtered water for washing. The idea was that filtering out all of the minerals and added checmicals would keep water spots from appearing becase the water was cleaner. I purchased an in-line filter from an RV store a few days later an it actually worked really well. I found that the water that tends to run from my mirrors and down the doors didn't stain and didn't need to be wiped away. The water would just dry without leaving a trace. Looked great. This lasted through 2 washes and then it seems the filter died. Big waste and lesson learned.
I don't know any magic cure but the hot water may work and beyond that; once the water spots are gone I think we just have to do a good job of drying our trucks before the air does. Or use the spotless car wash
-Adam
waterspots
A good waxing always does the trick for the waterspots on my f150. But that always does take a little time and effort.
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
From: Thorold,Ontario,Canada
by David W. Bynon
Copyright (c), 2000, Autopia Car Care -- All Rights Reserved
Got Spots?
I have received a rash of questions lately regarding
spot removal. Is it something in the water, or what?
Well, quite literally, it is the water. The same water we use to bathe our
cars can also damage our car'1s paint. The spots and damage are
caused by the minerals in the water. When water evaporates off of your
car's paint, it leaves behind the trace elements it contains. Calcium and
metals are the most damaging elements found in your tap water,
whereas rainwater contains damaging acids from air pollutants.
Getting rid of water spots can be easy if you chase after them. The best
solution is to use a quick detailing spray after you wash, or as soon as
you discover the spots (i.e., when your neighbor's sprinkler gets you).
If the spots sit for a while, they will attach to and harden on your paint.
When this happens, you need to use a mild acid to get them loose.
Believe it or not, the best acid is also the least expensive and most
available: a gallon jug of distilled vinegar.
Expert car detailers have known this secret for years. If you take your car
to a pro, they will tell you about the "magic acid bath" and charge you $60
or more for the pleasure of smelling like a pickle. Save the $60, put on
some gloves, and get to it.
To give your car the magic acid bath, first wash your car with your normal
car shampoo, rinse, then use the distilled vinegar. Just wipe it on with a
sponge, and rub it in. Do one section at a time, let it sit 30 to 60 seconds,
then rinse. When you're done, wash the car again with shampoo and
rinse. By the way, vinegar will remove your wax. So, be prepared to
rewax your car after the vinegar treatment.
If your hard water spots are bad, they will etch the paint. So, even though
the minerals are gone, the paint still has spots. In this case, it is
necessary to use a polish or heavy-duty paint cleaner.
Again, to keep spots to a minimum, try using a detailing spray after you
wash. A good detailing spray contains wax. The wax will condition your
paint and reduce hard water deposit spot formation. My favorite combo is
the Miracle Towel and Pinnacle Crystal Mist (but that's just me). For more
info, follow this link:
http://www.autopia-carcare.com/autop...kmiracle.html. Other's seem
to think the Eimann Fabrik is the way to go.
Copyright (c), 2000, Autopia Car Care -- All Rights Reserved
Got Spots?
I have received a rash of questions lately regarding
spot removal. Is it something in the water, or what?
Well, quite literally, it is the water. The same water we use to bathe our
cars can also damage our car'1s paint. The spots and damage are
caused by the minerals in the water. When water evaporates off of your
car's paint, it leaves behind the trace elements it contains. Calcium and
metals are the most damaging elements found in your tap water,
whereas rainwater contains damaging acids from air pollutants.
Getting rid of water spots can be easy if you chase after them. The best
solution is to use a quick detailing spray after you wash, or as soon as
you discover the spots (i.e., when your neighbor's sprinkler gets you).
If the spots sit for a while, they will attach to and harden on your paint.
When this happens, you need to use a mild acid to get them loose.
Believe it or not, the best acid is also the least expensive and most
available: a gallon jug of distilled vinegar.
Expert car detailers have known this secret for years. If you take your car
to a pro, they will tell you about the "magic acid bath" and charge you $60
or more for the pleasure of smelling like a pickle. Save the $60, put on
some gloves, and get to it.
To give your car the magic acid bath, first wash your car with your normal
car shampoo, rinse, then use the distilled vinegar. Just wipe it on with a
sponge, and rub it in. Do one section at a time, let it sit 30 to 60 seconds,
then rinse. When you're done, wash the car again with shampoo and
rinse. By the way, vinegar will remove your wax. So, be prepared to
rewax your car after the vinegar treatment.
If your hard water spots are bad, they will etch the paint. So, even though
the minerals are gone, the paint still has spots. In this case, it is
necessary to use a polish or heavy-duty paint cleaner.
Again, to keep spots to a minimum, try using a detailing spray after you
wash. A good detailing spray contains wax. The wax will condition your
paint and reduce hard water deposit spot formation. My favorite combo is
the Miracle Towel and Pinnacle Crystal Mist (but that's just me). For more
info, follow this link:
http://www.autopia-carcare.com/autop...kmiracle.html. Other's seem
to think the Eimann Fabrik is the way to go.
Member
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 95
Likes: 0
From: Columbia, SC
I spilt spot remover on my dog and now he's gone.
Rudy, I can relate to your problem with spots. I have never heard of a vineiger bath, but that doesnt mean that it isn't true. This was not the most labor-free way but it works. What I did was went to the store got the Mequires 3 step wax. Step number 1 was a cleaner. Rub hard and the spots will disapear. I would recomend doing this step twice, because step 2 is the wax. Once the wax is on, whatever is under it is not coming up with out even more work. So it is safer to just make sure. After finishing step 2 your truck should be nice and slick(place the bottle on the hood and it should slide right off) Step 3 is the carnuba wax which will make you trucks paint deep and lusterous. Not sure if that is a word, but that is what it will do. Plain on spending about 3+hours if you want to do it right. After doing all this, the water will sheet off and your truck's paint will be much more manageable. Repeat Step 3 every week or other week and it will look good forever!!
Now then, there is another solution. Take it somewhere and get it buffed and polished and you will just be without a truck for about 4 hours and a little lighter in the wallet.
I hope this helps. Jeff
Now then, there is another solution. Take it somewhere and get it buffed and polished and you will just be without a truck for about 4 hours and a little lighter in the wallet.
I hope this helps. Jeff
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 5,939
Likes: 0
From: Warner Robins, Ga, CSA
I'm sure that everyone knows this but, just in case you missed this info....
It's best, when rinsing off the car soap, to NOT use your hose sprayer/nozzle. Take it off and just let the water 'flow' the soap off--ends up leaving less(if any) water spots.
It's best, when rinsing off the car soap, to NOT use your hose sprayer/nozzle. Take it off and just let the water 'flow' the soap off--ends up leaving less(if any) water spots.
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Member
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
From: Western KY
I have water spots/streaks on all my glass. I spent about an hour and a half trying to get them off yesterday with everything under the sun with no luck. I tried vinegar, ammonia, window cleaner, cleaner wax, plastic/plexiglass polish, everything I could think of and nothing worked. Trying the steel wool trick I didn't think of though, does it not scratch the glass? I don't want to make things any worse than they are. I think I once read on here somewhere about using a glass polish, I looked all over my town for some and can't find it around here.
Any suggestions?
Any suggestions?
Member
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 83
Likes: 0
From: New Orleans, LA
Water Spots on Glass
You may want to try toothpaste - especially some of the new "whitening" types. The fine grit in toothpaste does a nice job on most glass. Pain in the a**, but it is hard to beat that minty-fresh smell!
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 1,704
Likes: 0
From: Mpls, MN
The steel wool does work very well. You need to be sure that it's fine enough not to scratch through. It does a great job at getting all the water spots as well as the bugs off.
I use #0000 very fine.
Just don't try and use the steel wool on your paint or there will be regrets
I use #0000 very fine.
Just don't try and use the steel wool on your paint or there will be regrets
Member
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 48
Likes: 0
From: NW Wisconsin
For water spots I use Race Glaze.
It's a breathable cleaner/polish/sealant, and when your done it makes Red paint look very deep. I had a car repainted after it was vandalized. Since it was fresh paint I used Race Glaze due to it being a breathable polish sealant. I put hours into this car with fine polish and the Race Glaze at first but after that I only needed the Race Glaze. Anytime there was some road tar or water spots I would rub it with Race glaze and it would be perfect again! I had soo many comments on how my paint looked. It look like it was a foot deep and that you could reach in and touch the bottom. I also sold a $2800 car for over $4000 even with a broken windshield because of this. It helps to work for a body shop supply store for a bit.
I’m one of those people who don’t mind blowing a whole day to cleaning, polishing, waxing, vacuuming, and shampooing a nice vehicle. Now that I have a couple to take care of again.
No I don't work for or sell Race Glaze. I just like their product alot!
It's a breathable cleaner/polish/sealant, and when your done it makes Red paint look very deep. I had a car repainted after it was vandalized. Since it was fresh paint I used Race Glaze due to it being a breathable polish sealant. I put hours into this car with fine polish and the Race Glaze at first but after that I only needed the Race Glaze. Anytime there was some road tar or water spots I would rub it with Race glaze and it would be perfect again! I had soo many comments on how my paint looked. It look like it was a foot deep and that you could reach in and touch the bottom. I also sold a $2800 car for over $4000 even with a broken windshield because of this. It helps to work for a body shop supply store for a bit.
I’m one of those people who don’t mind blowing a whole day to cleaning, polishing, waxing, vacuuming, and shampooing a nice vehicle. Now that I have a couple to take care of again.
No I don't work for or sell Race Glaze. I just like their product alot!
Member
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
From: Lenexa, KS
This is an explaination how we get water spots, caused by "hard' water, when we wash our trucks:
It's called "hard" water if it contains a lot of calcium or magnesium dissolved in it. Hard water causes two problems:
- It can cause "scale" to form on the inside of pipes, water heaters, tea kettles and so on, or leaves spots (calcium residue) on surfaces like our trucks.
- It reacts with soap to form a sticky scum, and also reduces the soap's ability to lather.
The solution to hard water is either to filter the water to remove the calcium and magnesium, or to use a water softener. Filtration would be extremely expensive to use for all the water in a house, so a water softener is usually a less costly solution.
Even with a water softener is installed, most plumbers run the outside faucets from the untreated lines, as you don't really want to water the grass or plants with soft water. When I run sprinklers outside, I bypass the softener. When I wash the truck, I run through the softener. The soap suds better, less soap is needed and the spots don't appear at all!
If you can't/don't want/don't have a softener, the in-line filter works, but as AjRagno found out in a post above, they are only good for limited amount of water and then they don't work anymore.
Sorry about the length, but that is the scoop on where the spots come from. Prevention is the best medicine, after that - lot's of rubbing is required!
It's called "hard" water if it contains a lot of calcium or magnesium dissolved in it. Hard water causes two problems:
- It can cause "scale" to form on the inside of pipes, water heaters, tea kettles and so on, or leaves spots (calcium residue) on surfaces like our trucks.
- It reacts with soap to form a sticky scum, and also reduces the soap's ability to lather.
The solution to hard water is either to filter the water to remove the calcium and magnesium, or to use a water softener. Filtration would be extremely expensive to use for all the water in a house, so a water softener is usually a less costly solution.
Even with a water softener is installed, most plumbers run the outside faucets from the untreated lines, as you don't really want to water the grass or plants with soft water. When I run sprinklers outside, I bypass the softener. When I wash the truck, I run through the softener. The soap suds better, less soap is needed and the spots don't appear at all!
If you can't/don't want/don't have a softener, the in-line filter works, but as AjRagno found out in a post above, they are only good for limited amount of water and then they don't work anymore.
Sorry about the length, but that is the scoop on where the spots come from. Prevention is the best medicine, after that - lot's of rubbing is required!
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 255
Likes: 1
From: Wisconsin
In my area, most people have a water softener. Usually the hose bibs/sil****s are unsoftened for lawn and garden use. My self and many others have run a softened water line/hose bib towards the driveway labled "car/truck only", just for washing the cars. I know one guy put one in just for his Harley. It works, almost no water spots.