scratches
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scratches
i have the 2010 f150 fx4. on one of my of froad adventures my passenger did not tell me about the branch i was about to run into so i got some nice scratches on my door. Its tuxedo Black. Any suggestions how to fix these?
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From: Aurora Texas
Can you feel the scratch with your fingernail or can you see metal?
Can you take close up photos in the SUN of the scratch?
Where are you located? Only asking that just in case you are in my hood I could take a look at it for you and tell if you if can be fixed or not.
Lets start with that and go from there.
The RollingRock.
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From: Aurora Texas
It's hard to tell you what exactly to do without photos, even if you can feel it with your finger nail its not always bad, the issue is that you'll have to level out the surrounding areas in that specific area to correct it. I would caution you as much as possible here. If you are taking it to someone, please make sure they know what they are doing. 70% of what I work on is fixing other detailer's work.
If your goal is conceal, there are ways to do it but you will have to keep doing it, over and over. If you correct it as much as possible then maintain it, you won't have to do much going forward.
FL...darn it....I am in DFW.
Post some photos if you can.
RR
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i have probably 3 good scratches and a chip in the paint somehow... but the rest u see when the sun shines on it. just makes it look bad... was thinking about taking it to a body shop here in town but i need to have my truck. so was trying to find some home remedies.
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Joined: Dec 1999
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From: California
Black of course is very difficult, but possible to repair. Most bodyshops would rather repaint the entire panel than try to attempt a repair because of the labor required but.....here's what I would recommend...
1. Using denatured alcohol, clean the area (this will remove any wax/oil residue.
2. Purchase touch-up paint (color & clear- liquid for the color, spray for the clear)....actual touch-up paint either at a dealer of parts store...the reason...it is laquer or similar product, which is slightly softer than the OEM- this is important and you'll see why. Purchase 1200 & 2000 grit sandpaper and a rectangle eraser
3. If there are any jagged edges, using 2000 grit sand paper, gently smooth those edges
4. Clean again with denatured alcohol (denatured is oil free)
5. using the supplied brush, using long continuous strokes, apply the paint color over the stratch..if the clear is all that is touched, then only apply clear to those areas. Wait 24 hours and apply another coat...typically this requires 3+ applications because lacquer shrinks as it dries
6. Wait 3 days after the last application, the paint should be at the saem level or slightly higher than the oem paint.
7. Take a spray bottle or a bucket of water, add 1 drop of dish soap, this will help act as a lubricant. Wet both the paint surface and the sandpaper, place the sandpaper on the eraser...this is essentially a mini sanding block, never use your hand/fingers to sand...the pressure will be uneven.....in almost a zen-like gentle stroke, gently sand in one direction the paint, you will see as the paint begins to level, start with 1200 then finish with 2000 just befor it's flat. You may see some holes or low sopts...its ok, just fill thos with paint and repeat. Now apply the clear...if you have an airbrush (not a touchup gun), this works best, reduce the clear to about 50% of what is was in the bottle, with light coverage, spray a continuous path directly over the repair, then repeat with a single spray off to each side of the initial coat, overlapping 50%...always start from the middle and work to the outside, wait 24 hours, then wet sand with 2000 grit, feathering the edge into the panel. Polish by hand, light pressure using 3M finisse II and work up to a fine polish-
Your done,
2 cases of "cool-aid" later, a few less nerves and a "Glad that's over"!
1. Using denatured alcohol, clean the area (this will remove any wax/oil residue.
2. Purchase touch-up paint (color & clear- liquid for the color, spray for the clear)....actual touch-up paint either at a dealer of parts store...the reason...it is laquer or similar product, which is slightly softer than the OEM- this is important and you'll see why. Purchase 1200 & 2000 grit sandpaper and a rectangle eraser
3. If there are any jagged edges, using 2000 grit sand paper, gently smooth those edges
4. Clean again with denatured alcohol (denatured is oil free)
5. using the supplied brush, using long continuous strokes, apply the paint color over the stratch..if the clear is all that is touched, then only apply clear to those areas. Wait 24 hours and apply another coat...typically this requires 3+ applications because lacquer shrinks as it dries
6. Wait 3 days after the last application, the paint should be at the saem level or slightly higher than the oem paint.
7. Take a spray bottle or a bucket of water, add 1 drop of dish soap, this will help act as a lubricant. Wet both the paint surface and the sandpaper, place the sandpaper on the eraser...this is essentially a mini sanding block, never use your hand/fingers to sand...the pressure will be uneven.....in almost a zen-like gentle stroke, gently sand in one direction the paint, you will see as the paint begins to level, start with 1200 then finish with 2000 just befor it's flat. You may see some holes or low sopts...its ok, just fill thos with paint and repeat. Now apply the clear...if you have an airbrush (not a touchup gun), this works best, reduce the clear to about 50% of what is was in the bottle, with light coverage, spray a continuous path directly over the repair, then repeat with a single spray off to each side of the initial coat, overlapping 50%...always start from the middle and work to the outside, wait 24 hours, then wet sand with 2000 grit, feathering the edge into the panel. Polish by hand, light pressure using 3M finisse II and work up to a fine polish-
Your done,
2 cases of "cool-aid" later, a few less nerves and a "Glad that's over"!