I have a 2000 XLT S/C and have the following questions I hope I can get help with:
- I've noticed several underbody components becoming rusted,ie front wheel spindles, steering gear box, etc. after checking several other 150's it appears Ford doesn't bother to paint them. Has anyone had any luck getting the dealer to fix (paint) or am I better off just cleaning off the rust and painting myself?
- Does anyone know if there is an aftermarket product to replace the cheap pieces of plastic tape Ford uses as a guard for the light switches in the doors. I've only had my truck 3 months and the drivers side is almost worn through. And last..
- For whatever reason Ford doesn't use fender liners in the rear wheel wells. Is there a product out there available O.E or aftermarket?
Thanks in advance for any help provided.

 

duncur

For the first one, if you, I would do it myself.

For the second one, check some catalogs like JCWhitney or Summit and you will find a section for that kind of wire or cable covers.

For the last, do some search in the site because I remember there is a tread exactly about that. If I am not wrong there is a OEM part # for that. My truck came with those rear liners.

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My Ride: 1998 F150 4x4 Lariat Supercab Flareside 5.4L in Oxford White/gold, ORP, Tow Package, 3.55 Gears.

Modifications: K&N FIPK, Stepshield door sill protectors, Performance Accesories 3" body lift, Lift Lips, Gabriel Gas Ryder LT VST Shocks and Daystar front anti-sway bar polyurethane bushings.

Photos at: http://www.communicomgroup.com/jmtruck

 

First,

Don't scrape the rust off and paint under your truck. You need to use a high quality rust converter to convert the rusty spots where they won't come back. I use NeutraRust 661, a great product. Go to their website www.neutrarustinc.com, or call 877-661-rust and ask for Laurie. They have a great "truck" kit that will take care of your flash rust. I highly recommend it.

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MIKEnTN

2001 Ford F-150 XLT SuperCrew 4x4
Toreador Red with Silver Two Tone, Med. Graphite Int., 5.4 V-8, 3.55 Limited Slip, Class III towing, Skid Plates, 17" Alum Wheels, Sliding Rear Window, Remote Keyless Entry, Rhino Liner.

AWESOME Truck!

 

TSB 00-09-05 covers your last concern regarding fender well liners. The TSB is a shield that covers the rear of the wheel well, not a complete wheel well liner. But it's cheap (i.e. free) while you're under warranty. Make an appt. with your service dept.

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1999 F-150 XLT
4x2 Supercab
139" WB Styleside
DOB: 7/19/99
Exterior: Dark Toreador Red
Interior: Dark Graphite 40/60 Split Bench
Optional Equipment:

• 4.6L EFI V8 Engine
• Electronic 4-spd Auto O/D
• P255/70R-16 OWL All-Season
• 3.55 Ratio Limited Slip Axle
• Floor Mats - Carpeted
• 6050# GVWR Package
• Sliding Rear Window
• Trailer Towing Group, Class III
• Premium Electronic AM/FM W/CD
• 6-way Power Driver's Seat
• Remote Keyless Entry
• Air Conditioning
• 4-W ABS/4-W Disc

Added:

• A.R.E. LSII Hard Tonneau - $745.45
• Ford drop-in Bedliner - #F75Z-9900038-AB - $211. installed
• Ziebart rustproofing - $279.
• Smittybilt nerfs, textured black - #FN1730-S4T - $210.
• Ford molded splash guards, front - #F65Z-16A550-CE - $33.33
• Ford molded splash guards, rear - #F65Z-16A550-DD - $33.33
• Ford Locking Gas Cap - #F75Z-9030-GA - $19.43
• Spare PATS Key - $20.95
• Tekonsha Envoy #9040 brake controller - $89.95

1998 Windstar
1993 Taurus
[b]1999 Casita

 

Jimb,

Are you saying the fender liners are your's for the asking? Many manufacturers do not put liners in the rear fender wells.

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1999 F150 4X2 SuperCab, 4.6 (Romeo). TuTone White/Gold, Bedliner, Prime Designs Bug Deflector, Ventvisors. No cracks, no Engine Mods, no Problems.

 

I contacted my Ford dealer and gave them the TSB number provided by Jimb. They looked it up and said there was indeed a rear wheel well liner kit. They ordered it. Will post a reply once get installed. Thanks Jimb!

 

To Duncur,
I don't know about the wheel liner, but on the other topic, the light switches in the door? I don't know what you are refering to but I was having a problem with the back door lever, the one that insures the back door can not be opened with the fron door closed. The tape was wearing out as well. I cut a 1" x 2.5" piece of flexible cutting board, curled about .2" of one end and put pin strip double sided tape on the piece of cutting board and replaced the piece of junk tape the Dealer uses. No more paint removal from the locking lever...
Tubbys.