WAXING BY HAND(Zymol)..I need a step-by-step from those who KNOW the right way please

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Old 06-21-2000, 07:38 AM
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Question WAXING BY HAND(Zymol)..I need a step-by-step from those who KNOW the right way please

Ok..I have had bad luck waxing vehicles and i never seem to get it right. I always use too much and it leaves greasy patches..or i end up with swirls..you get the point. I really want to keep my truck looking as good as possible. I currently have Zymol liquid polish/wax, foam applicator, terry cloth towels and a WaxMaster 9" orbital (for the 'other' vehicles). Here are some questions that i need help on~

What should i use to put on/polish/remove the Zymol with?

Should i use circular or back and forth motions for poliching and removing?

Should I stick to a 2x2' area...wouldnt this make it uneven in coat?

Does the metal need to be cool/cold..or just not HOT?


I feel pretty silly having to ask all this, but I need to learn the right way before i do it wrong and regret it. A "waxing with Zymol for dummies" article would be great! lol

Thank you thank you thank you

Jason

 
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Old 06-21-2000, 10:21 AM
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I assume that with all the talk about clay on these boards you're already doing that.
Have you ever tried prepping the paint before you wax it? I realize the Zymol is supposed to be a polish/wax but you may need a little more polishing than the Zymol can give you, you might try Meguiar's #9 or 3M polish.

Also while you're applying the product you'll notice patches where the wax/polish doesn't seem to be "sticking" (for lack of a better word) to the paint, keep rubbing (changing directions) until you seem to have an even coat over the entire area you're working on.

As for the 2x2 area size, try doing an entire "panel" or section at once. Do an entire door, or fender, or half the hood; that should eliminate the uneven finish.

good luck.

------------------
1999 Lariat Super Cab, S.B. 5.4L, 3.55 LS
and everything but the leaky slider window.
Bright red w/ gold 2-tone, Leather Captain's Chairs
Mods: Duraliner bedliner, Bugflector II, Hide-a-hooks.
& a leeetle chrome tip on the exhaust.


 
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Old 06-21-2000, 02:24 PM
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Foam applicator = good, circular on/off, terry cloth removal = fine, be careful with buffers, do out of the sun/as cool as possible/try the hood last if hot.

------------------
2000 F-150 XL,RC,LB,5.4,4R70W,3.55LS,
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Old 06-29-2000, 03:34 AM
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First of all, I have to recommend using a polish/wax called Liquid Glass. It is about the same price as Zymol ($15-$20), but I think it does a much better job. Apply it (Liq. Glass) with a RANDOM orbital buffer (that turns no faster than 2500rpm's) using a terry cloth bonnet. Surface should be slightly warm (or "luke warm"). After applying to entire vehicle, let sit for about 10 min., and wipe it off with a soft cotton/terry cloth-the KEY word here is soft. Now you have a coat of protection that should last 4-6 months!! (using a buffer will make it easier on your arm and will ensure an even coat). Make sure you are in the shade throughout the process! Any ?? e-mail me at iceburg24@excite.com

1997 F-150 X-Cab Lariat 4x4, 4.6L, auto w/od, 4x4 pack. ,towing pack., K&N filter, True Dualled with 2 Flowmaster series 40 Delta Flow mufflers

[This message has been edited by Pat Dantzler (edited 06-29-2000).]
 
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Old 06-29-2000, 08:09 AM
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How about some Polishing reccomendations.

I've always just washed and applied a paste wax ( Until now) Now I actually want to make my truck shine when I'm not muddy.

Also I have some scratches down the left side from driving through some brush..

Thanks http://home.earthlink.net/~cdtackett/index.html

------------------
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regulator@f150driver.com www.goarmy.com



[This message has been edited by REGULATOR (edited 06-29-2000).]
 
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Old 06-29-2000, 09:42 AM
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I used Meguiar's Body Prep followed by their polish (the ones with the numbers on it). I waxed it w/ Zymoil, but it was a pain to get even on my Wedgewood Blue (took a lot of buffing, and I did it in 2x2 sections that the stupid instructions say). The damn cool water trick on the instructions just made things worse. . . I ended up rewaxing my hood. I was impressed with the outcome, but it took a lot of work. I'm going to try the Liquid Glass that Pat Dantzler recommended next, and maybe even a clay bar. And I'm definitely going to invest in a buffer

------------------
2000 F-150 XLT Supercab Wedgewood Blue
  • 2WD w/ 3.55 Limited Slip
  • 4.6L w/ 5 speed manual
  • 16" 5-Spoke Aluminum Wheels
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  • Stereo w/ Single CD
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  • HD Electrical and Cooling
  • Medium Parchment Interior
 
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Old 06-30-2000, 02:00 AM
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I also have the Deep Wedgewood Blue and I first used the Mcguires Gold class or something like that. I ultimately went with the zaino treatment and it is unreal what the paint looks like now.......it was easy to put on and take off just make sure you do it when there is low humidity and it will take a long time but the results are amazing..........steve

------------------
  • -1999 Ford F-150 Supercab Flareside ORP
  • -4.6 Liter V-8, Auto, 3.55 LS Rear
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In Loving Memory of Craig W. Menth Sr. Maltese Cross Fire Memorial Sticker



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[This message has been edited by steveo (edited 06-30-2000).]
 

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Old 06-30-2000, 08:02 AM
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Question

Stevo,
What products do you use from Zaino Bros.? Thanks.

-dlb
 
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Old 07-03-2000, 08:08 PM
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steveo got it right. for years i used zymol and meguiars on my show cars and everyday vehicles, but since i have started using zaino brothers products everything else comes in second. i highly recommend using the clay bar because it is the only way to really get your finish cleaned of all the garbage that attaches to your paint. the bar is real easy to use as long as your keep your finish wet when using the bar and that you never use the bar again if you drop it on the ground. i use clay on all my vehicles and they come out great.
 
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Old 07-03-2000, 09:15 PM
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I used the clay bar, z-1,z-2,z3,z-5,z-6,z-7.. Check out www.zainobros.com they have a whole breakdown of what to use.
 
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Old 07-19-2000, 02:18 PM
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Go rent a copy of the Karate Kid..... wax on.... Wax off.....

------------------
2001 Supercrew, white/silver Lariat, gray leather capt. chairs, 5.4L, Expedition console, wood dash, cobra hood, billet grill, Ford chrome tube steps, Line-X liner, Magnaflow cat-back dual exhaust w/stainless tips, k/n filter, http://hometown.aol.com/washyourcar/supercrew.html
 
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Old 07-20-2000, 10:42 AM
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As far as the clay bar is concerned, since you'll be using it with some type of lubricant it's going to be slippery so inevitably you're going to drop it, and it'll probably be the first time you use it. Also you'll probably be in the middle of detailing your truck when you drop it and you probably don't have a spare, not to mention that $15-$25 is not something people are accustomed to throwing in the trash.
Chances are you'll be on concrete or asphalt when washing your truck so if you drop the bar it won't get completely coated with sand, just hose it off to get the majority of the dirt off of it and then pick the rest of it off with your fingers.
My clay bars last me about a year (that's about 50-70 cars and trucks) and YES I drop them occasionally, but I clean them off completely and keep going. I've yet to ruin a paint job.

------------------
1999 Lariat Super Cab, S.B. 5.4L, 3.55 LS
and everything but the leaky slider window.
Bright red w/ gold 2-tone, Leather Captain's Chairs
Mods: Duraliner bedliner, Bugflector II, Hide-a-hooks.
& a leeetle chrome tip on the exhaust.


 
  #13  
Old 07-24-2000, 12:53 AM
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Never dropped mine. It is definately slippery though. The karate kid movie is wrong though you go back and forth not circle circle.....
 
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Old 07-24-2000, 10:50 AM
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How 'bout when I "sand the floor"? can I use circles then?

------------------
1999 Lariat Super Cab, S.B. 5.4L, 3.55 LS
and everything but the leaky slider window.
Bright red w/ gold 2-tone, Leather Captain's Chairs
Mods: Duraliner bedliner, Bugflector II, Hide-a-hooks.
& a leeetle chrome tip on the exhaust.


 



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