Got some tree sap on my wife's brand new 2010 Mazda 3. It wasn't just some, it was the WHOLE car! So, I took it to the dealership and they got most of it off, but seemed to just focus on the front where it looks like it could have gotten everywhere, whats the best way to get the sap off, just clay the car?

 

The best method I've found is to use Isoproply Alcohol and a terry cloth towel. Depending on how long the sap has baked onto the paint you may need to let the towel sit on top of the sap for a little bit for the alcohol to break it down. However, remember that the alcohol strips any wax that was on the paint so you will have to rewax any areas the alcohol touches.

 

Bug and tar remover or Meguiars Body Solvent. Then clay it and wax it.

 

WD-40 is your friend!

 

It's been on for almost a week, the spots the dealership missed. Could I just take it to a detailing place and have them go to town?

 

Sure, as long as they are good. You don't want a place that considers a "detail" as hitting it with 3M polish with a rotary and calling it a day. That will sure get the crap off, but you will have a ton of swirls.

 

Is IPA safe for the clear coat? I know it strips wax, just wondering about the clear.

 

I also have this second protection clear coat that's on the car that lasts up to 5 years.

 

That so-called "second protection" is probably gonna be gone when you finish. I'd consult with the company that applied it. Most of that stuff is snake oil.

IPA is clear coat safe.

 

Just simple mild Claybar always works fine on my vehicles for sap removal...

 

The dealership said it's part of the warranty, and that sap should remove easier than if I didn't have the second coat. They said only thing that would remove the coat is if I got the car repainted or ran it through a laser car wash.

 

The dealership sold you snake oil.

 

well.....90% IPA cut to 50/50 is safe for clear. I am sure non cut is fine but not needed for IPA wipedowns.

To to the OP, like OldDogg suggested....tree sap is easy to get off...why not just Clay the car yourself and save a ton of money?

BTW, agree 1000% that the "second" clear coat is just a bunch of hog wash. Waste of money on a dealer gottcha.

Just remember to the steps...not sure if you have been following the CD section or new to the area.

Process (RollingRocks light version)

-Wash
-Dry
-Clay
-Polish/Correct if needed
-LSP

NEVER use Terry Cloth on paint, if possible, use a good high quality MF towel. Read this again, NEVER use Terry or Cotton on your paint, you are just inducing more micro marring and straight line scratches.

Using IPA or Clay will remove "most" wax that is already there so be sure to re apply the LSP of your choice when finished.

All set? More questions? We gotcha covered.

RollingRock

 

Alright, thanks! This weekend I'm going to Wash, Dry, Clay, Wax. I have a ton of Micro Fiber towels, just need to wash them.

 

Sounds good, let us know...

On the note of Claying, what ever kit you buy, buy more QD you will want it. More is ok, less is bad.

On the clay bar itself. Before you start, cut the bar in two...put one away and use the one half on your paint...if you drop it..pick it up and take it right to the trash and use the second half you cut. Fold from time to time and you are good to go.

Post up when you get done and see how it did. Getting tree sap off will turn your bar yellow so if you see that, congrats, its working. (Pending you are using the white bar, if you are using Blue it will turn it green)

At first, test a 1X1 section and see if that gets your sap off. If it doesn't we need to look at plan b.