This question is not about how to remove the 4X4 decal from my bed sides. It is about the sticky clean up afterwards. I know about the WD-40 and the other stuff that people have recommended on the million other threads on this subject.
I will be taking my truck to a paint shop a day or two after I remove the decals to have pinstripes hand painted and a couple other things airbrushed near the end of the bed.
I just want to make sure that what I use to clean off the glue it will not cause any issues with the new paint. Thanks for any advice

 

WD 40, goo gone, Opps, elbow grease.

 

I just applied Nxt 2.0 to clean up the remaining glue and shadow left behind by the decal.

 

NXT or anything oily is not a good idea if you are going to have it painted. I think I'd use isopropyl.

 

I agree with using the iso, just be careful how much pressure you use, and with what cloth type. It can "haze" the clear coat.

I found using alot of iso with a little bit of pressure and being patient worked the best for me. Also flip the cloth often and change cloths for final wipe out once you transfer most of the glue onto the cloth.

I was also told that duponts "wax and grease remover" works really well for getting glue off. I have some but never tried removing glue with it.

Good luck!

 

Wax and grease remover is a good idea if you are going to be getting some paint work.

 

Thank you for the advice. I just did not want to use the wrong thing and screw it up or cause issues for the guy doing the work. I will try the wax and grease remover first

 

you need an eraser wheel, any parts store should carry one

it's basically a big pencil eraser that you stick on your drill and it just rubs out all that sticky stuff

I removed a set of the stick on scoops on my ranger in about 5 minutes after about 45 minutes of using goo gone, wd40, and what not

 

That's a good idea, I've heard about them, but never tried one. always fearful they would damage the paint.

 

the only way it will damage the paint is if you hold it in the same spot for a extended period of time, just go back and forth and don't sit in one area and you won't have any issues, very simple if ya ask me

 

If the person doing the work doesn't prep his work area prior to painting regardless of what you do, I would be worried about his finished results.

 

It is that he is doing the work just for the cost of the paint, so I am trying to make it as easy as I can for him.

 

FYI, using an air tool it's VERY easy to screw up your paint. I borrowed this exact solution from my paint/body guy to remove a pair of ginormous decals from one of our fire trucks we were selling and I burned AND removed paint in more than few places. These decals were 18"x12", so they had a huge surface area and gave me plenty of opportunities to screw up as well as a lot of practice. By the time I got to the second one my skill level really hadn't improved.

You've got to have a really light touch and keep the tool running fairly slow. Our air system wasn't set up to be adjustable so that didn't help. Our trucks operate at 120psi and their tires use from 100 to 140psi so our system is set at 150psi.

I would be hesitant to recommend this method to a nOOb. That air tool is designed to run f-a-s-t!

YMMV