most effective scratch remover?

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Old Oct 28, 2008 | 06:51 PM
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most effective scratch remover?

well this is kind of a 2 parter mainly about scratches and then swirls, first for awhile i had these sticky hood scoops on my f150 then when i took em off it left that thick 3m goo stuff behind then while i was trying method after method of gettin em off i took....... s.o.s pads to it (live and learn, and ill not do this ever again) it all looked fine when the hood was all wet and everything and it took the 3m glue off, but when it dried it ate a little more than that off........ so now ive got these giant scratches on the hood and have already been to a bodyshop where the guy said "that it cant be buffed out, and he can repaint it for $350", so i was like f that if worst came to worst ill just paint it with that duplicolor paint shop stuff, unless theres a certain brand of remover that can help

now about the swirls ive got a ton of em, and saw the other post on it and it looks all good but what terms exactly are "da" and "megs" i think i know but im not sure

thanks
 
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Old Oct 28, 2008 | 11:13 PM
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DA refers to a Dual Action Polisher and Meg's is Meguiar's. It's just an abbreviation for the name.

Read through the sticky's or just do a quick search. That's the easy way to find all these little answers.
 
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Old Oct 29, 2008 | 07:45 AM
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If you can take pics of it and post it here I am sure one of the elders like RockPick, Gipraw, RollingRock, or Boss429 can give you a better opinion on how to proceed. Also if you have taken the clear off the only solution is to repaint the hood.
 
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Old Oct 29, 2008 | 07:57 AM
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post a couple of good pics of the damage so we can take a look. Once we look at it, the best course of correction can be suggested.
 
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Old Oct 29, 2008 | 12:30 PM
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okay i got the pix on my computer but have no idea how you get em on here.... all i see is a "insert picture url" part and nothing else....
 
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Old Oct 29, 2008 | 01:44 PM
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The pics have to be uploaded to a photo hosting service such as Photobucket, or you have to start an album here. Then you can paste the URL code.
 
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Old Oct 29, 2008 | 03:09 PM
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okay heres what i got

https://www.f150online.com/forums/me...scratches.html

hope this link does it........
 
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Old Oct 29, 2008 | 04:22 PM
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Old Oct 29, 2008 | 04:28 PM
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thanks.... so you just copy and paste the url thing after theyre in the album huh....
 
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Old Oct 29, 2008 | 05:33 PM
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Yeah, and you need to enclose the url in img tags. Replace { } with [ ].

{img}https://www.f150online.com/forums/members/kford-albums-scratches-picture9320-distance.jpg{/img}
 
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Old Oct 30, 2008 | 02:35 AM
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I'm sorry but what would posses anyone to use steel wool on a painted surface?
 
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Old Oct 30, 2008 | 07:37 AM
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Brain fart.
 
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Old Oct 30, 2008 | 09:44 AM
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Originally Posted by memLT-1
I'm sorry but what would posses anyone to use steel wool on a painted surface?

well i didnt know it would come out like this, it just seemed like a good idea when nothing else was doing it, and on this particular week i only had 1 new truck to try this on..... like anyone else i usually have 3 more on hand just in case
 
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Old Oct 30, 2008 | 10:42 AM
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Is this a serious post?

You used steel wool on your paint.
A body shop told you its needs to be repainted, so if paint correction methods that we suggest here fail- you want to repaint the hood yourself with a rattle can?
 
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Old Oct 30, 2008 | 11:41 AM
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Ok, finally (after how many posts) it's time to offer you some advice. Basically, if you used steel wool to remove the adhesive, you probably did a pretty decent number on your clear coat. Generally speaking, if you can feel a scratch with your fingernail, it's too deep to get out (safely) with most polishing / correction methods. With steel wool however, you probably induced thousands of smaller scratches instead of one big one that you might be able to feel with a fingernail. So, that test won't work here.

Although the pictures you posted help a bit, they still don't really show enough detail. One really has to look at the damage in person. Based on my experience though, I can pretty safely say that the only way that amount / type of damage is even possibly going to come out is a rotary buffer in trained hands. A PC, or even a Flex - will be hard pressed to take off that much material. Remember, at best you're right on the borderline of being able to correct the damage. You might actually be into re-paint territory already. Even if you do try to rub the damage out, your clear coat is going to be seriously compromised and will probably fail sometime down the road.

My recommendation? Don't try to fix that one yourself because you run too great of a risk of doing more damage. Then you'd be out that money, plus the repaint. I'd check with a couple of more body or detailing shops to get their opinions.
 
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