most effective scratch remover?
most effective scratch remover?
well this is kind of a 2 parter mainly about scratches and then swirls, first for awhile i had these sticky hood scoops on my f150 then when i took em off it left that thick 3m goo stuff behind then while i was trying method after method of gettin em off i took....... s.o.s pads to it (live and learn, and ill not do this ever again) it all looked fine when the hood was all wet and everything and it took the 3m glue off, but when it dried it ate a little more than that off........ so now ive got these giant scratches on the hood and have already been to a bodyshop where the guy said "that it cant be buffed out, and he can repaint it for $350", so i was like f that if worst came to worst ill just paint it with that duplicolor paint shop stuff, unless theres a certain brand of remover that can help
now about the swirls ive got a ton of em, and saw the other post on it and it looks all good but what terms exactly are "da" and "megs" i think i know but im not sure
thanks
now about the swirls ive got a ton of em, and saw the other post on it and it looks all good but what terms exactly are "da" and "megs" i think i know but im not sure
thanks
DA refers to a Dual Action Polisher and Meg's is Meguiar's. It's just an abbreviation for the name.
Read through the sticky's or just do a quick search. That's the easy way to find all these little answers.
Read through the sticky's or just do a quick search. That's the easy way to find all these little answers.
If you can take pics of it and post it here I am sure one of the elders like RockPick, Gipraw, RollingRock, or Boss429 can give you a better opinion on how to proceed. Also if you have taken the clear off the only solution is to repaint the hood.
okay heres what i got
https://www.f150online.com/forums/me...scratches.html
hope this link does it........
https://www.f150online.com/forums/me...scratches.html
hope this link does it........
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well i didnt know it would come out like this, it just seemed like a good idea when nothing else was doing it, and on this particular week i only had 1 new truck to try this on..... like anyone else i usually have 3 more on hand just in case
Is this a serious post?
You used steel wool on your paint.
A body shop told you its needs to be repainted, so if paint correction methods that we suggest here fail- you want to repaint the hood yourself with a rattle can?
You used steel wool on your paint.
A body shop told you its needs to be repainted, so if paint correction methods that we suggest here fail- you want to repaint the hood yourself with a rattle can?
Ok, finally (after how many posts) it's time to offer you some advice. Basically, if you used steel wool to remove the adhesive, you probably did a pretty decent number on your clear coat. Generally speaking, if you can feel a scratch with your fingernail, it's too deep to get out (safely) with most polishing / correction methods. With steel wool however, you probably induced thousands of smaller scratches instead of one big one that you might be able to feel with a fingernail. So, that test won't work here.
Although the pictures you posted help a bit, they still don't really show enough detail. One really has to look at the damage in person. Based on my experience though, I can pretty safely say that the only way that amount / type of damage is even possibly going to come out is a rotary buffer in trained hands. A PC, or even a Flex - will be hard pressed to take off that much material. Remember, at best you're right on the borderline of being able to correct the damage. You might actually be into re-paint territory already. Even if you do try to rub the damage out, your clear coat is going to be seriously compromised and will probably fail sometime down the road.
My recommendation? Don't try to fix that one yourself because you run too great of a risk of doing more damage. Then you'd be out that money, plus the repaint. I'd check with a couple of more body or detailing shops to get their opinions.
Although the pictures you posted help a bit, they still don't really show enough detail. One really has to look at the damage in person. Based on my experience though, I can pretty safely say that the only way that amount / type of damage is even possibly going to come out is a rotary buffer in trained hands. A PC, or even a Flex - will be hard pressed to take off that much material. Remember, at best you're right on the borderline of being able to correct the damage. You might actually be into re-paint territory already. Even if you do try to rub the damage out, your clear coat is going to be seriously compromised and will probably fail sometime down the road.
My recommendation? Don't try to fix that one yourself because you run too great of a risk of doing more damage. Then you'd be out that money, plus the repaint. I'd check with a couple of more body or detailing shops to get their opinions.






