Meg's #7 or Step 2?

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Old 09-05-2008, 09:46 PM
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Meg's #7 or Step 2?

My truck is black and I detail by hand.

I have been getting more and more serious about my detailing, and I clayed for the first time recently. I also used a cleaner (step 1) and a polish (#7) for the first time also. However, as I am searching through posts, I don't see much reference to #7, so I am curious if step 2 is superior. Should I be using step 2 instead of #7?

Also, I complete the routine with NXT 2.0. But I was curious how exactly this works as I know NXT 2.0 has cleaners in it. Isn't some of the polish removed by cleaners, and if so how does NXT fit in here? Also, I would like to top with a carnuba. Is Goldclass suitable, or does that have some cleaners as well? Any help is much-appreciated. Thanks
 
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Old 09-05-2008, 09:54 PM
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I use dc 1 and 2 followed by NXT 2.0 with superb results. I plan on topping with a carnuba before winter to give some added protection during the winter months. Still not sure what I will go with, probably the DC step 3 wax.

Troy
 
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Old 09-06-2008, 01:38 AM
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I like #7 in some scenarios... It tends to darken some colors and add some depth IMO... but sometimes the effect isnt worth the time. Also, you have to have the technique down pat otherwise it can be a bear to get the results you were looking for while not inducing any further problems...

FYI, it was originally designed to replenish oils in SS paint (or so I hear), then was tweaked to work on Dual stage paint... I find times where its great and others where its useless...

Clear as mud yet? Keep reading.

Basically, when you do half the hood, can you tell a difference between the two halves? If you're not sure, ask someone else but dont tell them what to look for. If there is no visible difference, finish the panel, but stop there. If the difference is good, have at it. Keep in mind that in a dual stage paint you do NOT need to replenish oils in it... That said, its more of a gloss enhancer than anything. So if you are doing the alcohol wipedowns that some of us do, you will remove all your hard work in the wipedown stage....

Neither is superior... I think DC2 has a few light fillers/etc in it, thus they are 2 different things... If you've got the time, do both if you like the looks. If not, I'd snub DC2 and keep #7.... Just me though.

Okay... on to the waxes>>
Yes, both Gold Class and NXT (and NXT 2.0 for that matter) have some light cleaners and other junk in them. That said, still keep with the prep stuff. It wont completely undo the work-- it sorta adds on to it. Remember, its more about the prep work than anything else, so it is imperative that the prep is good. And yes, GC is fine as a topper to NXT/NXT 2.0.

Good luck! Happy detailing.
 
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Old 09-06-2008, 07:30 PM
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Okay, thanks. Here's the routine I did.

Wash w/basic car wash (used the last of whatever it was and already threw container away,but it wasn't anything special). Also, I purchased a random orbital buffer and used that for my routine today. It's not a dual-action, but it is random.

clay w/mother's clay kit

Step 1 cleaner
#7
#26
NXT 2.0

The NXT 2.0 is setting now. I gotta say, after using #7 for the first time, I am pretty unimpressed with the results. I think my truck looked better following the subsequent coat of #26. That shouldn't be the case though, right? As #7 should add the shine and #26 is more for protection than looks, right? Also, I did not get much "stuff" off during my claying. I've read threads on it, but I think my paint was just pretty clean. Odd though, b/c this was the first time I've ever clayed. I do wax and use cleaner often, but from what I've read, the claying should still have produced something more than it did.

Also, to be clear, if I now (after removing the nxt 2.0) add a coat of gold class, will I enjoy more shine? Thanks again. I will post pictures next week.
 
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Old 09-06-2008, 07:32 PM
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Oh yeah, one more thing. How long should I let the nxt 2.0 set? I know there are different schools of though on this...
 
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Old 09-07-2008, 11:14 AM
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Apply the NXT 2.0 to the whole vehicle very thin, rubbing it in. Then you can remove it in the same panel order in which you apply it. Then you should let it cure for 12 hours before carnauba topping.
 
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Old 09-07-2008, 02:52 PM
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Okay. For Carnuba topping, is #26 the professional version of goldclass? Or is it the equivalent at least, because I purchased 26 already, but not goldclass.
 

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Old 09-07-2008, 03:51 PM
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don't mean to jack the thread, but is the step 3 caranuba a pure caranuba as well? Anyone ever top it after NXT 2.0? How superior are gold class and #26 over the DC step 3 caranuba?
 
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Old 09-07-2008, 06:12 PM
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Yes you can get more shine if you add GC on top of the NXT 2.0. Also, the #26 goes on AFTER the NXT-- that may be part of the problem.

As for the #7, you are seeing what I meant. It doesnt do a whole lot anymore. Sometimes it can add just a touch of pop, but not always.

Dont worry about letting it set. Old school propaganda taught us this. I know, I used to say it, too. But now people are discovering that there is no advantage to letting it set any longer than to pass the finger swipe test.

Clay-- this happened to me, too. Good dealerships will clay prior to delivery. Maybe you got lucky. I dont typically have to clay that often; JP does and he lives less than 20 minutes from my house... Just goes to show that it is all relative to your driving conditions, parking conditions, and environmental conditions.

Anywho, I know this was rushed. Let me know if I need to revisit this and explain my crazy thoughts. I gotta run, though...
 



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