How hard is your water ???

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Old Jul 24, 2008 | 11:22 PM
  #16  
Rockpick's Avatar
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From: The Bluegrass State
Mine's out of control as well... fortunately, there are some 'in-line' water softener options that don't require you to install a system in your house.

Here's a review that I wrote about 2.5 years ago detailing the Spotfree 1000 system that I purchased from www.autodetailingsolutions.com

Spotfree 1000 Inline Water Softener Review

-RP-
 
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Old Jul 24, 2008 | 11:25 PM
  #17  
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From: The Bluegrass State
Originally Posted by ThumperMX113
Not so much.
I tend to agree...

While a leaf blower can certainly accelerate whatever is coming into it to slam into the paint, the last time I checked, we don't have free-floating sand in the air. While there will always be a certain amount of TSP (total suspended particulate) on a very small level (Particulate matter 1.0, 2.5, 5, 10, etc (PM)), the amount of damage of something being measured in MICRONS isn't anything that I'd really worry much about...

My personal opinion... if you want to use a blower, use the blower. You run about as much risk of harming your paint as what you would spraying your vehicle with a stream of water (I mean, let's face it, water has dissolved solids too, right? It would probably sand blast the vehicle too, right?)

-RP-
 
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Old Jul 24, 2008 | 11:29 PM
  #18  
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From: The Bluegrass State
Originally Posted by Scruge
I'm in Houston and have been doing it for a long time and have never experienced the problems you speak. I'm sure its possible in some areas

Another benefit of rain water is its ability to disolve mineral deposits.

You can use whatever you desire to remove dirt, the point was to let the rain do the final rinse.
Rain water is typically more pure than what would come out of the faucet but, let's keep in mind that there are certain exceptions to that paradigm...

Some areas are much dirtier than others and, as such, will contain more entrained particulate. Additionally, if something is becoming entrained within a drop of precipitation, it's likely that the pH of the droplet of water may be affected by the particulate within it... Hence, this is how the phenomena of acid rain occurs (with a few more tiny details).

Lastly, to your point of dissolving minerals... just about any water can dissolve certain minerals but, the matter isn't destroyed once it's dissolved. So, if the water is left on the paint to dissipate, it will re-precipitate the mineral back out of solution. Same principal of stirring up salt in a glass of water... once the water dissolves, the salt is in the bottom of the glass with only a minimal amount being evaporated off into the ambient air.

While I agree with you in principal, all corners of the United States won't have equal rain/precipitation quality. For most, however, it'd be very safe and cheaper than buying distilled or similar...

-RP-
 

Last edited by Rockpick; Jul 24, 2008 at 11:34 PM.
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Old Jul 25, 2008 | 12:29 AM
  #19  
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I should probably start washing my truck in the rain....been thinking of trying it
 
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Old Jul 25, 2008 | 12:31 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by Bartak1
I should probably start washing my truck in the rain....been thinking of trying it
I've done it many times, it just makes drying a pain in the butt, IMO.
 
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Old Jul 25, 2008 | 02:53 AM
  #21  
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From: HI
Originally Posted by Les22
Call it personal preference, but I would rather use a car wash from a reputable company such as Megs and deal with blowing and drying afterwards to eliminate water spots. Mr Clean is probably fine, but I am stubborn and wouldnt use it on my truck only because that company has developed their reputation as a household cleaner not an automotive detailing company. Cleaning linoleum is different than caring for automotive paint.
Again, no offense, its probably fine to use. I am just way to **** to try it on my truck
Don't worry, no offense taken. Everyone is entitled to their own opinion. I've been using it since I purchased my truck over 2 years ago with zero issues and I'd easliy put my truck up against anyone's in here as far as condition. When I had the truck in the show on the 4th I had a guy come up and ask me who my detailer was. Told him I did everything myself and he told me he owned his own detailing shop on the island and my work was "professional quality."

Also it's not like the same thing you'd use on your linoleum is the same thing used on the truck. Plus the wash is just part of the total cycle of detailing the truck. One thing I've learned in here is that preparing the surface for waxing is the key so after washing comes claying and other Megs products to get the surface prepared.
 
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Old Jul 25, 2008 | 12:05 PM
  #22  
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From: Omaha, NE
Originally Posted by RockPick
Rain water is typically more pure than what would come out of the faucet but, let's keep in mind that there are certain exceptions to that paradigm...

Some areas are much dirtier than others and, as such, will contain more entrained particulate. Additionally, if something is becoming entrained within a drop of precipitation, it's likely that the pH of the droplet of water may be affected by the particulate within it... Hence, this is how the phenomena of acid rain occurs (with a few more tiny details).

Lastly, to your point of dissolving minerals... just about any water can dissolve certain minerals but, the matter isn't destroyed once it's dissolved. So, if the water is left on the paint to dissipate, it will re-precipitate the mineral back out of solution. Same principal of stirring up salt in a glass of water... once the water dissolves, the salt is in the bottom of the glass with only a minimal amount being evaporated off into the ambient air.

While I agree with you in principal, all corners of the United States won't have equal rain/precipitation quality. For most, however, it'd be very safe and cheaper than buying distilled or similar...

-RP-


Man, you need to get out more... lol.
 
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Old Jul 25, 2008 | 07:36 PM
  #23  
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From: New Jersey, USA
My water is well water (but the well was installed new in 1996) and must be real hard water because the Mr. Clean filter doesn't seem to help much. And for some strange reason the Mr. Clean filter leaves a real murky finish and I hate how low the pressure is! By the time you rinse one section, the rest of the vehicle is already dried with spots so what's the point?

My routine that works best for me is keeping the vehicle wet as I wash and then once done let the hose run without the nozzle letting most of the water sheet off then dry with two large microfiber drying towels and then finishing up with a quick detailer to leave a crystal clear shine.
 
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Old Jul 25, 2008 | 11:53 PM
  #24  
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From: Yukon, Oklahoma
I have a sediment filter followed by a deionization filter. It has helped me greatly. I washed my truck last Saturday in direct sunlight with 90+ temps with no problems. I washed and dried 2 panels at a time.

 
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Old Jul 26, 2008 | 12:35 AM
  #25  
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From: Arkansas
i swear the water here is the softest water i've ever seen. i can let it air dry after wash and spotting will be minimal. soft enough i can see the little white beads float around when i sheet the water off with low pressure. i've read that's an attribute of soft water
 
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