#80 removal

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Old Jul 15, 2008 | 09:26 PM
  #1  
F-150_Octane's Avatar
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#80 removal

Started on the black Jetta today, Megs #80 on an orange pad is KICKING ***. I only did about 1/4 of the hood as a test and it is working awesome. I am going to follow it with PoorBoys Carnuaba Polish and a coat of Natty's blue.

My question is this, I usually do #80 one section at a time (maybe a square foot section), work it in really well in a few passes when wipe it off before moving on.

I find it easier to remove the product after it has dried a little bit, if you wipe it off when it's still moist it just smears everywhere, plus it's kind of a pain in the *** to switch between holding the pad, to the bottle of #80, to the MF towel etc.

Could I do a while panel (e.g. the whole hood) when wipe it all off after? I would find this much easier but I didn't want to try it incase it became impossible to remove.

Thanks.

P.S. I discovered very quickly that the paint IS NOT single stage, it's got a clear coated

Another P.S. I guess I should post a pic! This is just two quick passes with #80 before/after. Still needs lots of work but it's working great so far! And yes, the paint is in ROUGH shape.

 
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Old Jul 15, 2008 | 10:06 PM
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MOford21's Avatar
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From: Missouri
The main problem I can see is that you say it's harder to wipe off "when wet." If you've worked it in far enough, it should not be wet at all- it should be more of a haze. From my experience if you can't wipe the residue off with a couple passes with decent pressure and a clean MF towel, then it's not broken down completely.

Anyway... To the point... The size of the area you do really depends on how much product you use... I usually do about 1/4 of the hood at a time, and then each door, and split the bed into 2-3 sections, and split the tailgate in half. I put an X of #80 on the pad, spread it out and then work it in. This seems to work pretty well as long as you spread it out evenly and work it in. It takes a lot of time working in that large of an area for me, at speed 4-5..

I'm not saying my way is the right way to do it by any means, I'm just saying it works for me. I'm sure others on here will be able to tell you a much better method than mine.
 
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Old Jul 16, 2008 | 01:24 AM
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DO NOT LET IT DRY!!! Other than that, see what MOFord said. The only thing that I'd say is that an x may be a bit much product....Too much tends to make you want to tackle too large an area...
 
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Old Jul 16, 2008 | 08:53 AM
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F-150_Octane's Avatar
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Originally Posted by f-150sport03
DO NOT LET IT DRY!!! Other than that, see what MOFord said. The only thing that I'd say is that an x may be a bit much product....Too much tends to make you want to tackle too large an area...
Maybe that's my problem... I try to do about a square foot but it usually ends up being bigger due to my carelessness.

Thanks.
 
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Old Jul 17, 2008 | 09:31 AM
  #5  
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From: The Bluegrass State
There's no need to let an abrasive polish dry to the paint. In fact, you're creating more of a problem for yourself when you do because they aren't made to really be 'user friendly' in the removal process once they've concreted to the paint.

Obviously, there will be times when you don't get to it in time and thus, you're forced to don the goggles and get a chisel to get it off... rather than doing that though, keep a bottle of DI water on hand. If it's a bit difficult to remove, lightly mist the surface with some water and re-wipe.

Scrubbing for removal is likely causing just as many problems as you may have removed so, make it easy on yourself rather than making more work!

-RP-
 
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