Allright, I've read the sticky and hit up ADS for damn near every available product under the sun outside of a DA. After trying to detail the car the first time using only my hands, I realized that detailing without a DA is not exactly productive and doesn't yield the results I wanted (or maybe I'm just not motivated enough to put the hand effort to Clay Bar, use #80, use#7, and coat with NXT2.0 in one day). I need a DA, but I'm a little confused as to what to buy. It seems everyone used to sing praises about the G100, but it's no longer available at ADS. I also remembered it to have a lifetime warranty and the G110 now available only offers 1 year. That seems a little suspect to me and I haven't heard the glowing praise for the G110 that I did for the G100. On top of that, everyone seems to be talking about the FLEX polisher now, but it's a little more expensive. I'm about to do a full summer detail and I want it to be more successful than the one I attempted in February. It's difficult for me to find a full day to do this, so I want to do it right.

My questions are:
Which polisher would you recommend? Particular benefits to one over the other?
Which pads do I need to buy?
Which should I pads should I use (or none if I should do by hand) for each product (namely #80, #7, NXT2.0, #26)?
Is the DVD on Rick's site worth the money? I tend to learn better from watching someone do something than by reading, but if it's a waste, I don't want to pay for it.
Any other general tips for moving from hand finishing to using a DA are more than appreciated.
Lastly, I've really liked the Meguiars Chenille Wash Mitts, but they seem not to be available anymore. What else do you guys like? I've heard good things about SM Arnold Lambswool, but it's out of stock on ADS - where else can I get it, or what else should I look at?

Thanks for all the help. I promise after this detail (prob middle of June) I'll post pictures of the handywork. To date, I haven't done anything worth posting.

 

How much "correction" does your paint require? If all you have are the minor swirls and RIDS, then you'll be happy with the G100 or G110. I believe the G110 is just the updated version of the G100, and it has a little better ergonomics and a slightly more powerful motor. But basically the same thing. If it were me (and it was), I went to Lowes and got the Porter Cable 7336, which is the same thing as the G100.

The FLEX is a different beast. In addition to oscillating, it also has forced rotations. The PC or G100/G110 does not have FORCED rotation. The FLEX is between a DA and a rotary. It will get more severe defects out of paint.

I've tried Meguiar's 6.5" pads (8006 and 9006) pads. For me, they are a bit to big to give sufficient polishing correction. I recently got the EDGE adapter, along with some green and white 4" Cyclo pads. IMO they provide MUCH better utility with the DA. Better cutting ability, along with better handling of the DA (less vibration, easier to control).

Believe it or not, Walmart carries a great lambswool mit. It's made by Eurow.

 

I own both the G100 and a FLEX. The G100 is a great tool, but it lacks the power and corrective ability offered by the FLEX. Save yourself time and money and go straight to the FLEX.

I would go with the NEW beveled edge Lake Country pads from ADS, they aren't on the site yet...(I got the first set ) but if you put the normal ones in the cart and call Rick he can swap them out for the new ones.

I suggest an extra ylw or OJ pad for cutting, for sure...(It will come with the FLEX package), and I LOVE their blue finishing pad...maybe grab 2 of those.

Not sure on the DvD, but start with youtube...there are a TON of videos out there.

As for the mitts, they were out of stock of the SM Arnold pads when I ordered, but then they came in stock again and he sent mine out. I would bet he just didn't update the site

 

Good post.

BTW, you think you got the first set? Yawn, old news my friend.... already used my set. I'm kind of a big deal....people know me.

 

that just made my (long) day a LOT better
I swear, man... you remind me of...well...me-- only my catch phrase is "I've got people" (yes, I said it before the commercials did, so I'm not just copying it)

anywho, off to bed.

BTW-- thanks for the info on Truckgasm-- I think I am getting a liner done by him soon. Dont let me forget to show you the new toy I have for my truck... It's SOOOOOO fun (not lights though )

 

OK, I'm a little confused. At this point, I'm most likely going to get the Flex polisher or the G110 Kit #1 (w/fewest products since I have most already) and plan on using Lake Country Pads, but have a few questions before I submit my order.

One, I've heard one of the great things about the G110 DA is that b/c of the DA action, you almost can't screw up and damage your paint. The Flex is described on ADS as an Orbital Buffer. With limited experience, is it possible that I could accidentally hurt my paint?

Two, I'm still a little confused on pads. I'm leaning towards Lake Country pads which I've consistently seen positive comments about on this site. I don't know however which of the LC to go with. The CCS seems to be a great pad from the info on LC's website, but several posters also mention the VC pad. Do I need to have more skill to work a VC pad since the pressure/contact area can be varied based on the user's plans? Are the "curved VC" on LC's website the new beveled pads you guys have mentioned.

Three, What are the advantages/disadvantages to the Edge System. I also kind of like what's stated on ADS about them, but I'm not sure how important some of the advantages are. I like the idea of double sided and it seems it ensures you couldn't hit your paint with a backing plate. It also seems to be a simple mounting and swapping of pads on the polisher. With only 4 pad types available, it doesn't seem to offer the same spectrum that LC does with their pads.

Four, Are the 'cross cut flex foam polishing pads' on ADS Lake Country pads? They also seem like good pads, but I couldn't tell from ADS is f they're LC pads (color scheme seems similar) or if they're a generic competitor.

Five, Is there value in the automatic pad washers on ADS? The LC site seems to indicate that trying to wash pads using a DA polisher doesn't yield results like washing them on an orbital buffer and suggests washing pads by hand if a DA is all you have. Anyone agree?

Lastly, I intend to use the following product/pad/removal process based for now on LC pads. I don't plan on using #83 if I don't have to, but I figure I'll get the 6 pad package and plan for it just in case. I also don't plan on always using the steps below, but some variation of them depending on what I need at that time. Any comments would be great.

1. #83/Orange Cutting Pad/remove with MF Bonnet and DA
2. #83/Green Med Polishing Pad/remove with MF bonnet and DA
3. #80/Green Med Polishing Pad/remove with MF bonnet and DA
4. #80/White Polishing Pad/remove with MF bonnet and DA
5. #7/Black Finishing Pad/remove with MF bonnet and DA
6. #7/Blue Finishing Pad/remove with MF bonnet and DA or by hand
7. NXT Tech Wax 2.0/application by hand or Blue pad and DA/removal by MF Bonnet and DA or by hand
8. #26/application by hand/removal by hand

Sorry for the long post, thanks in advance for the comments.

 

My responses in BOLD


RR=I think that pad choice is fine however, I am not as versed on the Megs products on LC pads, i have tired using #80 with an Orange and to be honest, it was way too much cut on the pad for the product. Never a good idea to push a product outside of its limits and expect proper results.

The LC Orange pad is very aggresive, it will mar and dull the finish so you do have to polish down regardless of product line. Let me rephrase that, the Orange pad May and Can dull the finish.

Hope that helps

 

Thanks, that was a great response RR. When I get the DA, I might have to post again to see if you can explain the counterweighting you're talking about. I don't know if it'll do much good to get into it now without the DA here to look at.

 

That's funny that he is still out of stock on the SM Arnold Lambs Woold Mitts. I hate to say it but you can thank me for that one.

 

I can expound on the counterweight a little.

Until recently I had 4 DA's, 2 of them came with 5" counter weights and 2 came with 6" counterweights. The counterweights purpose is to "counter act" the centrifugal force on the pad and this keep the DA from vibrating in your hands and also making the motor work less hard. Pad size can be an issue with some DA's. If you run 6.5" pads, you need the larger counterweight. Most DA's now come with a 6" counterweight. Older models may have a 5" but for less than5 bucks on ebay you can get a PC 7425 6" counterweight.

BTW, a loaded pad will have more centrifugal weight thus making a DA work differently, albeit slight, you may notice it pending how much time you have with a DA in your hands.