Thump, take it easy. There are *NO* rules here as to who may and who may not give advice. If some moron like me jumps in and gives advice that you FEEL to be wrong, of course I'd expect you to give YOUR opinion and WHY you think I am wrong. THAT IS HOW WE ALL LEARN.

Sniping at people and talking down to them is VERY counterproductive on ANY forum, not just this one.

 

No need to take offense to my post, none was intended.

My concern was that the kit he mentioned in his first post only had the gray, white and orange CCS pads. If he only has minor swirls and he goes straight for the orange pad and SSR2.5, he might not like the outcome. Using that combo the finish will "dull" a bit. This is fixed by following up with a less aggressive polish/pad combo, but someone new to the process might be a little freaked out at first.

My question remains though. Do you have any experience with the SSRs or CCS pads?

 

Did someone say Poorboys?



I didn't see this thread until today....interesting.

HW, thanks for clearing up the wrong info posted regarding EX and EX-P. They are very different products. I prefer to use EX-P, pure sealant b/c it can be used on any color regardless of what some folks may think and the added bonus of "cure" time over other sealants makes my life a tad easier.

SSR's can be very tricky and they can jump out and bite you in the wrong hands and if used improperly. Trust me, I know. I have been stumped more than once with a difficult situation and had to burn a few hours doing tests to make sure I was addressing the problem area correctly. Just ask Tony (attworth), I spent over 1.5 hours on one 12X12 section of his truck b.c it was so marred I wasn't sure how to attack it. I wanted to use the least aggressive method first.

 

Rather than picking this apart, I will do as I did with the little bout between me a troberts: I will put a few points below this, then I will step away from the thread-- argumentation on a detailing thread is VERY counterproductive, just as glc mentioned. Granted, with troberts, I posted things we could agree on, but in this case, I will post what most everyone can agree on.

1. You are entitled to your opinion. As long as the information you use as fact is true, you have every right to share your ideas.

2. Not everyone needs to use your method. Yes, most of us here are broken records because we use the same lineup on everything, but on the other hand, we must all be receptive of the fact that there is more than one way to skin a cat.

3. When people disagree with you, they are not (usually) attacking you, they are offering their insight as to how THEY would do it. It is not a personal battle, but rather a matter of an information battle.

4. No one person knows everything about detailing. Granted, people like RP, Boss_429, Gipraw, RR, etc know a LOT, but you will find when talking to them that they all are receptive towards other methods (seeing a pattern here?)

5. Rather than stewing over somebody's post and getting agitated, let it go. It will not hurt you if joe blow has another way to do something. Chill. A forum should be friendly and professional (at times), but NOT a warzone.

6. Be sure you have spoken to someone about how they feel before you post as if you know. I guarantee you that you dont know what JP (read: RollingRock) and RP are thinking. That's not to say anything in particular, but just a word of wisdom...

7. I had another idea, but I forgot in light of the fact that rather than stirring this up, I am more wanting to just let this debate die and let everyone post in a friendly manner in order that they may help out the OP.

On that last note, I have a message for the OP:

I am sorry you had to sift through that other crap to get the information you are looking for. I am no expert with the SSRs (yet... ), but I have used them all... JP hit it on the head when he said that they can bit you in the butt. However, once you get the hang of them, they are a DREAM to work with.

As for your earlier clay question, RP summed it up well-- clay is clay is clay. As long as you compare mild to mild and agressive to agressive, it is essentially the same. In fact, I may be wrong on this (please correct me if so), but Clay magic has the patent on it, thus they have sold their information to other companies or they make it for other companies--meaning that it will be essentially the same.

glc was correct-- the mothers one is yellow. I have used it, clay magic, Megs blue, Megs red, and megs purple. I have no desire to ever touch another red bar. Personally, I would rather stick to blue for most cases. Interesting story below.

when I painted my mom's trim, I didnt remove the panels. I got a little overspray in spite of the newspaper, so I went to take it off with clay. Then I got the bright idea to see what it would remove. So I started aiming closer and closer until I figured out that you can spray the car directly, then wait for it to dry, then clay it off. Granted, it takes awhile to remove direct spray, but it can be done. This was all in an afternoon. Why did I do this? I wanted to see the capability of the clay and that panel was about to be replaced anyway... no biggie if it didnt come off.

Enough of this thread for me unless directly addressed by the OP (or RR/JP/Gip/Boss)

 

Thanks Ryan, great post, and I actually had to scan the thread again to see that I was inadvertently quoted.

No need to dig into that anymore than what you already said.

BTW, Cedar Hill State Park is awfully dark at night. Geez, I am so glad I have Jasper and 4 full mags with me.


How about this for a totally OT post....

I picked up my new RV Truck box today, it was line-x'ed and a coat of line-x Xtra sprayed on it.



Why does this matter? Do you realize how much more product I can keep with me now? You guys thought the OCD thread was bad, i may have to get a photo of my truck box contents....

 

NICE!!!! Take plenty of pics! (Macros get bonus points!!!) Okay, back OT.

Thanks for the kudos, BTW.

 

damn dudes, i just wanted to know about the kit. can someone explain why the SSR line might take some time to get the hang of it?

and Rolling Rock, I went over to the PB's forum yesterday. you own the bragging forum.

 

man, "sleeping" all day yesterday, I missed out on some interesting threads. I chip in my .02 though, least aggresive method first. Start with ssr1, not working go to ssr2, etc. until satisfied. Words of caution, dont eat PB products, they are very tempting.

 

Sorry for clogging up your thread.

For the kit, it looks like a great start. I would also add a green pad in there as well. I find myself using the green and white pads most often.

Don't worry, you'll be fine using the SSRs. Just take your time, be patient, and post any questions you have on here.

 

There are not that many folks that frequent that forum, people go there more for product info than to brag. You'll notice that there is a gal there called LittleMissGTO, she is an incredible detailer. The great thing about that forum is that you can see so many different cars from around the world as PB products are sold abroad. Its like a cult following.

As for the SSR's. Like any product you have to understand the line and how they react, there is a learning curve. Often i see of and hear of poeple jumping right to SSR3 for minor blemishes that SSR1 or PP could get out. Another thing to thinking about with SSR's is that they can be used by many methods, hand, machine etc...pad choice is also a very important factor. You don't want to push SSR1 with a yellow lake pad for instance but for the most part if you need a yellow or orange Lake pad, you are dealing with major correction. Like HW said, I too use the Green and White lake pads more than anything, and white really is the work horse of lake pads regardless if you are using CCS or VC pads.

Another key point about SSR's is that in many cases you need to polish down....use SSR1 after SSR2, not so much with SSR1, it can be used like you would use Megs 80. I think it has more cut than 80 but Boss thinks the opposite, and I often defer to him...again pad choice makes a difference there too. Its been over a year since I used 80, but I did do a test run with Megs 80 and a yellow lake pad just to see what would happen. Didn't work well and I don't recommend it.

Another thing you should be thinking about, is the proper expectation when using the SSR's. SSR3 and 2.5 will and can dull the finish and it will freak you out. That is the reason to step down polish them. I have had to do entire surfaces with SSR3 and had an owner come over and check on me, he was pissed until I showed him the next step....it scared the be-jesus out of him.



I would also make yourself familiar with this chart. It is very helpful.

 

i need to order EX or EX-P and the black hole today to make sure i've got all the steps covered. here's a parts break down. i'm still a little unsure about what pad to use if i need to use the 2.5.

wash
clay
SSR2.5 (Orange or green CCS pad?)
SSR1 (White CCS pad)
Black Hole (Black pad)
EX or EX-P (What's the difference between the one with carnuba and the one without? If i'm following with naty's blue, is it necssary? what pad recommendation?)
Natty's Blue (By hand)

sorry for being a broken record. thanks for the help.

 

If JP doesnt respond soon, shoot him off a PM. Why am I not answering? I dont know the LC pad line.

BUT... I can say the following:
I would use EX-P for your sealant, and YES! follow up with Natty's. I dunno what color truck you have, but any carnauba after a sealant will look beautimous.

 

my truck is black.

sorry, is JP RR, or RP?

 

JP is RR.

 

crap. it says he's not receiving PM's.