How to avoid swirl marks when detailing by hand?
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From: San Jose, CA
How to avoid swirl marks when detailing by hand?
For the life of me, I can't seem to avoid fine swirl marks. I believe I'm being extremely careful-2 bucket method, one for rinse, one for Meguiars car wash. 2 clean MF mits, 1 for 1/2 the truck, 1 for the other 1/2. Very carefully clayed with the fine Meguiars kit, then Meguiars Deep Crystal polish, then Deep Crystal wax. All the while using new/clean microfiber towels. Also, I don't think that I'm exerting too much pressure when polishing, etc. This has been my experience with my other car too, a 1998 Mustang Cobra.
Oh, and I tried the Scratch X on a small area, and I do believe it did nothing except maybe added its own marks.
I figure I gotta be doing something wrong along the way. On the other hand, I'm starting to think its impossible to avoid the swirls when hand detailing. I'm ready to buy a Cyclo, or the Porter Cable.
Oh, and I tried the Scratch X on a small area, and I do believe it did nothing except maybe added its own marks.
I figure I gotta be doing something wrong along the way. On the other hand, I'm starting to think its impossible to avoid the swirls when hand detailing. I'm ready to buy a Cyclo, or the Porter Cable.
Last edited by Carlsson3; Apr 29, 2008 at 06:02 PM.
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From: DFW
My responses are in bold in your quote.
For the life of me, I can't seem to avoid fine swirl marks. I believe I'm being extremely careful-2 bucket method, one for rinse, one for Meguiars car wash.
Did you use Grit Guards? Though they are'nt 100% necessary, they make it a LOT easier to prevent swirling.
2 clean MF mits, 1 for 1/2 the truck, 1 for the other 1/2.
What kind were they? Not all MF is created equal, you know...
Very carefully clayed with the fine Meguiars kit
FWIW, clay does NOT remove swirls, it is an abrasive technique to lift adhered contaminates to the finish. But I applaud you for using it-- it is a very worthwhile step IMO.,
then Meguiars Deep Crystal polish
Be advised, Step 2 is a step which replenishes the natural oils in the paint, thus improving gloss and wetness, but more importantly, it is a bit of a 'filler' type product which fills in swirls rather than removing them. You may want to first start with step 1 if you are going to stay doing it by hand.,
then Deep Crystal wax
Again, this will NOT remove swirling. DC wax is essentially a straight-shot carnauba wax (read: no abrasives) but it does have a touch of fillers if I remember correctly. It will protect, but only can conceal swirls at best..
All the while using new/clean microfiber towels.
See earlier comment about MF stuff...
Also, I don't think that I'm exerting too much pressure when polishing, etc. This has been my experience with my other car too, a 1998 Mustang Cobra.
Hmmm...I am sensing 1 one or more things may be off, then...
Oh, and I tried the Scratch X on a small area, and I do believe it did nothing except maybe added its own marks.
Search for S-X usage-- there are a lot of ways to mess up S-X. While it's not a miracle in a tube, it is great for what it is designed to do: take care of consumer-line defects by removing some of the defects and concealing some more.
I figure I gotta be doing something wrong along the way.
Unfortunately, you are right. But think on the bright side: Admitting it is the first step in recovery!!!
On the other hand, I'm starting to think its impossible to avoid the swirls when hand detailing.
Not true... It is possible, and is done by a LOT of people around the USA...
I'm ready to buy a Cyclo, or the Porter Cable.
If that's the case, then I'd say go for it!!! I dont know anything about the cyclo, so I cant make a recommendation there, but I know that a LOT of people on here have a PC, thus a lot of us can offer insight/help more readily than if you had a cyclo. A machine is the best investment for my detailing life I ever made...
Did you use Grit Guards? Though they are'nt 100% necessary, they make it a LOT easier to prevent swirling.
2 clean MF mits, 1 for 1/2 the truck, 1 for the other 1/2.
What kind were they? Not all MF is created equal, you know...
Very carefully clayed with the fine Meguiars kit
FWIW, clay does NOT remove swirls, it is an abrasive technique to lift adhered contaminates to the finish. But I applaud you for using it-- it is a very worthwhile step IMO.,
then Meguiars Deep Crystal polish
Be advised, Step 2 is a step which replenishes the natural oils in the paint, thus improving gloss and wetness, but more importantly, it is a bit of a 'filler' type product which fills in swirls rather than removing them. You may want to first start with step 1 if you are going to stay doing it by hand.,
then Deep Crystal wax
Again, this will NOT remove swirling. DC wax is essentially a straight-shot carnauba wax (read: no abrasives) but it does have a touch of fillers if I remember correctly. It will protect, but only can conceal swirls at best..
All the while using new/clean microfiber towels.
See earlier comment about MF stuff...
Also, I don't think that I'm exerting too much pressure when polishing, etc. This has been my experience with my other car too, a 1998 Mustang Cobra.
Hmmm...I am sensing 1 one or more things may be off, then...
Oh, and I tried the Scratch X on a small area, and I do believe it did nothing except maybe added its own marks.
Search for S-X usage-- there are a lot of ways to mess up S-X. While it's not a miracle in a tube, it is great for what it is designed to do: take care of consumer-line defects by removing some of the defects and concealing some more.
I figure I gotta be doing something wrong along the way.
Unfortunately, you are right. But think on the bright side: Admitting it is the first step in recovery!!!
On the other hand, I'm starting to think its impossible to avoid the swirls when hand detailing.
Not true... It is possible, and is done by a LOT of people around the USA...
I'm ready to buy a Cyclo, or the Porter Cable.
If that's the case, then I'd say go for it!!! I dont know anything about the cyclo, so I cant make a recommendation there, but I know that a LOT of people on here have a PC, thus a lot of us can offer insight/help more readily than if you had a cyclo. A machine is the best investment for my detailing life I ever made...
Last edited by f-150sport03; Apr 29, 2008 at 06:48 PM. Reason: separated text to make it readable
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Senior Member
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From: San Jose, CA
Thanks for the reply. I did skip Step 1 of that product line. Possibly that would make a difference. I bought the truck used, it's a 2007 XLT, and the paint didn't seem too abused at all. However, I probably shouldn't have a assumed it'd be ok to skip the full 3 stages.
Thanks much for the info.
P.S.
My only experience with the Cyclo is through a mobile detailer that used it on my 1998 Mustang and did a full detail on it. This 10 year old car looked absolutely stunning when he was through. It looked FAR better than it did when it was BRAND NEW. I honestly couldn't believe it. He told me that's the reason this polisher has been a professional standard for more than 50 years. So I think I'll think I'll consider it. I can practice on my old Camry
Thanks much for the info.
P.S.
My only experience with the Cyclo is through a mobile detailer that used it on my 1998 Mustang and did a full detail on it. This 10 year old car looked absolutely stunning when he was through. It looked FAR better than it did when it was BRAND NEW. I honestly couldn't believe it. He told me that's the reason this polisher has been a professional standard for more than 50 years. So I think I'll think I'll consider it. I can practice on my old Camry
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Joined: Jun 2007
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From: Northern VA
The cyclo is heavy and only runs at one speed. Between the PC/ UDM, flex, and rotaries, Id say the Cylco is used the least.
http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...Ln8cTzBw&hl=en
http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...Ln8cTzBw&hl=en
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From: Fairfield,CA
When detailing by hand make sure your cleaning in the same direction, preferably from front to back.
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From: Aurora Texas
Not sure I follow.
"When Detailing....clean in the same direction."
