Greetings all...

After getting an info overload with reading/searching I missed some answers to some pretty basic questions..

I just got an '08 Screw cab (I assume that defines the configuration, not what happens at the dealer.. I digress already). And it's black. Nothing prettier (IMO).. nothing harder to keep that way. 'Just got' as in less than 2 weeks ago

That in mind, I just ordered the #3 polisher package from ADS (Also figuring that my wife's car needs MAJOR help..) I also sprung for the training vid.

With the two cars and two Harleys in the garage it was a worthy investment.

My questions..

1. Per the title, I clayed for the first time (wife's car) and was really surprised how easy it was. question - When do i trash the clay for new? It picked up a ton of 'stuff' but I'm sure they don't last forever, but nor does it need to be tossed with one use.

2. Also as mentioned, I went for the full meal deal DA polisher package. I haven't seen clear info on how to care for the pads and MF towels. Toss them into the washing machine after use (when wife isn't home)? I have gathered that air drying is correct....

3. Truck is in today for the 'protection package' paint seal, undercoat, leather treatment, etc etc etc.. (I live on the coast.. no salt roads but lots of salt air). What do you recommend after I pick it back up as far as polish/wax? Should I let it age or jump on it right away? Any other do/don't help tips on a fresh seal job.

Thanks for the help, and always, many thanks to all that share the info here. I've learned a lot of things about the truck just lurking the forum.

(no, no picks at this point, but you've all seen bone stock black '08 crew cabs.. )

Cheers!
Bob P.

 

First off, welcome to the site! A lot of good info and people here.

To the questions-

1) You should toss your clay whenever you can't fold it and find a clean white spot anymore. A tip- cut your clay bars in half so if you drop one half you still have the other.

2) You can wash MF towels in the washing machine, just DON'T use fabric softener. As for the pads- I just hand wash mine in the sink using Dawn Direct Foam, and it works very well. I know that many on here use Murphy's Oil Soap to clean their pads also. Then just let the pads air dry sitting on a towel.

3) Not real sure on this one, but I would say if you are getting the paint sealed, you might as well wait until the sealant wears off before polishing and waxing again. That is, unless you want to start right away..then go ahead! Just make sure to be patient when you use the DA and put some good wax on there to protect your results.

Hope some of that helps, just be forewarned that this part of the site is almost guaranteed to give you obsessive compulsive disorder.....and a lighter wallet.

 

Bob,

1. When the clay should be thrown away is clearly a sight unseen type of issue. You just need to use good judgment when it has picked up too much containment that is possible to mar your finish.

2. I wash my microfibers in the washer with regular Tide and make sure it has no additives ect. I do a warm/cold wash with two rinses. During the end of the rinse, put in a tbls of distilled white vinegar for every microfiber towel. Let them air dry. Now pads I use Murphy's Oil Soap with warm water. Just make sure you get all of the soap out of the pad. I also let them air dry.

3. Sadly enough, the sealant that they are probably putting on your paint contains a product known very well to us detailers as "Snake Oil". I'd be doing a full detail job afterwards which consists for me ...

Wash
Clay (You already did this ..)
#80 (1 to 2 passes)
#9 (It has slight fillers to help hide imperfections)
Two coats of NXT 2.0 or #21 2.0 (Wait 12 hours between each coat)
#16 but since it's discontinued you can use #26.

 

I use liquid Gain HE on my MF towels in a cold/cold wash cycle, run them thru a "gentle" spin cycle and a "2nd rinse" cycle and then throw them in the dryer on the "low warm" setting without any dryer sheets but my Dryer ***** which makes them nice and fluffy. I use to air dry them but it takes too damn long.

I find a warm wash does clean them a tad better, but a cold wash rinses them better and doesn't shrink them as much. I also don't need vinegar - a water softener -because we have a filteration system throughout our house that softens the water and pulls all additives and whatnot out. It's just right.

Works for me.

 

Again, thanks to all for the input and advice..

No, I don't expect wonders from the dealer paint seal (I was glad to see that it was going to a 'real' body/paint shop for application) but figured that anything I could do in this salt air climate would be a good thing. Assuming that it's decent, I'll hit it with the wax products as soon as a)weather permits and b) I get the stuff from ADS.

I should get it back tomorrow with the protection package done, line-x in the bed and my bak-flip is sitting in the garage now awaiting install...

One more question on the NXT 2 and 26.. Do you recommend the DA for application and removal? One, the other, both, or neither..

I'll let you know how it goes..

Cheers!
Bob P.

 

I recently used the NXT Generation™ Tech Wax 2.0™ on my other ride [HERE], and even though i wasn't over-the-moon with its overall application and finish, it did come up a lot better than before and I didn't use a DA.

I've been meaning to order the G-100 Porter Cable but I keep putting it off.

Meguiar's® Supreme Shine® Microfiber Towels work great!