i have a 2010 f150 and i never noticed these little rust looking spots last year when i lived in asheville nc and it snowed constantly. now that i moved to the other side of the state i never noticed it either until i came back across the state in the snow after christmas. i also work right beside a switch yard for the railroad so im not sure which is causing the problem. i have bought this mothers clay and am planning on putting it on sometime in the next day or two...will let you know on update.

 

You don't "put on" clay - you wash the truck - no need to dry it - then spray a small area with the quick detailing spray, knead a piece of clay, and scrub the area with it like you are polishing it. Reknead the clay and move on to the next area. If you drop the clay on the ground, throw it away.

 

The rust spots are 2 things going on - the iron deposit hits the finish, then when it comes in contact with moisture it begins to oxidize. This produces the orange/rust color spots that you see on the paint. The side effect (besides being ugly) is that as it oxidizes the particle can actually begin to eat its way into the clear coat. In some very severe cases even after claying the finish you'll be left with small pits from where the particles were.

FWIW - you actually want to work in straight lines, not circles as suggested. The clay is physically bonding with and sheering off those contaminants at a very small level. To give the clay the best opportunity to do this work in straight lines across the area from multiple directions. Generally you'll be able to feel and hear the surface of the paint get cleaned. The clay will move smother and there will be a less noticeable sound as it does its job versus when you started.


The best protection is prevention - after removing the defect polish and wax, then maintain that coat of wax or sealant.

We have a chapter in our latest DVD that focuses specifically on clay for those who are unfamiliar with it: http://www.adamspolishes.com/t-Videos_DVD5_13.aspx

 

Ford/GM/Chrysler/MB/Porsche all have service directives that specifically refer to paint correction/contamination procedures and clay bar is not a referred procedure and specifically identified as a method which only removes the surface level paint contaminants and as such, the "root' of the contaminant remains continues to destroy the paint from underneath the surface layer of the paint. I will send to anyone a copy of the Ford OEM paint correction procedures.

Just remember, Mequire's clay bar is rated at 3500 grit. There much better clay bar products out there rated at much finer grits- so if you are comfortable and believe your paint needs to be wet-sanded, and that is the only and safest way to correct the flaw/issue, then do so but remember, for 90% for all paint contamination issues there are products designed to relieve/remove/neutralize the contaminants without reducing the mil thickness of the clear coat

These procedures date back to 1990 and are still published in current oem paint maintenance publications/service manuals. What he is describing sounds like iron-oxide contamination- there are specific products for this available at any auto body paint supply store.

 

1. Meguiar's Gold Car wash
2. Dry
3. Meguiar's Clay Bar Kit
4. Diluted Baking Soda in warm water, rinse
5. Meguiar's Gold Car Wash
6. Dry
7. Meguiar's Ultimate Compound
8. Meguiar's Scratch X 2.0
9. Meguiar's NXT Tech Wax 2.0 (let cure 24 hrs.)
10. Meguiar's Liquid Carnauba wax

 

Here we go again..............

 

Hey cuminer2003...I live just around the point of the mountain from you and I also have a white F-150. I washed my truck yesterday and found the exact same spots!!! I spent 3 hours yesterday with some rubbing compound getting them off! I'm going to definitely go get a clay bar and give that a try...

 

its works...took me a few weeks to get to wash it because of the crazy weather the south has has here lately...but its back to looking new off the lot!!