How often to wax?
Boy, you’ve come to the wrong place to ask that question! This forum is also known as OCD Central. Only here can you find folks who can talk for hours about how to detail the inside of your tail pipe. I think you’ll find most of us doing some kind of detailing numerous times a week.
As for actual waxing frequency, the advice you’ve already been given is pretty straight. The only thing I’d add is that some products do seem to be able to be layered better than others. I’ve had decent success with Zaino in multiple layers and it’s actually designed to allow one to do that. The question you really want to ask though is whether or not you need to layer. For most folks, one coat is enough – for almost any product. Once the OCD sets in though, all bets are off.
As for actual waxing frequency, the advice you’ve already been given is pretty straight. The only thing I’d add is that some products do seem to be able to be layered better than others. I’ve had decent success with Zaino in multiple layers and it’s actually designed to allow one to do that. The question you really want to ask though is whether or not you need to layer. For most folks, one coat is enough – for almost any product. Once the OCD sets in though, all bets are off.
Originally Posted by RockPick
It's also a really simple answer -- as needed.
Assess your paint regularly and use good methodology, products, and techniques when maintaining your finish (washing, QD'ing, drying, etc...). When you maintain your finish using good products and techniques, your 'wax job' will actually last longer, you'll induce less swirls/micromars, scratches, etc... back into your finish and thus, you're not having to polish to remove that type of thing.
As times goes on, you'll start to see the wax's properties break down. In short, it'll stop beading (or sheeting - as the case may be), it'll be a tad more difficult to wash your vehicle as it'll spot more frequently and show more crud than before, and it'll be more difficult to dry after a wash because, if you're using the sheeting drying method, more of the water will adhere to the paint versus running off.
So, I know that's a goofy answer back to your question but, it's the truth. So many things go into determining what will cause a 'wax job' to break down that we couldn't really touch on all of them here in a 10-page book... the long and short of it is to simply assess/assess/assess.... when it's time, in your eyes, to re-wax -- then jump to it (with all of the necessary and proper preparation steps, of course).
Enjoy.
Assess your paint regularly and use good methodology, products, and techniques when maintaining your finish (washing, QD'ing, drying, etc...). When you maintain your finish using good products and techniques, your 'wax job' will actually last longer, you'll induce less swirls/micromars, scratches, etc... back into your finish and thus, you're not having to polish to remove that type of thing.
As times goes on, you'll start to see the wax's properties break down. In short, it'll stop beading (or sheeting - as the case may be), it'll be a tad more difficult to wash your vehicle as it'll spot more frequently and show more crud than before, and it'll be more difficult to dry after a wash because, if you're using the sheeting drying method, more of the water will adhere to the paint versus running off.
So, I know that's a goofy answer back to your question but, it's the truth. So many things go into determining what will cause a 'wax job' to break down that we couldn't really touch on all of them here in a 10-page book... the long and short of it is to simply assess/assess/assess.... when it's time, in your eyes, to re-wax -- then jump to it (with all of the necessary and proper preparation steps, of course).
Enjoy.
Originally Posted by Powercat
RP, thanks so much for your input! I take a bunch of quotes from you and other Elders of this forum and paste into a Truck Care doc of my own. 


