My Belgian Cabinet maker neighbor tells his customers this

"you can pick any two of these, 1. I want it fast, I want it cheap, I want it good" Again any two.

That said. If you want it fast and looking good, my recommendation is that you get a:

Porter Cable 7424 DA Polisher
6" Lake Backing place and a set of Lake pads.

That means, 1 each of the following:

• yellow
• White
• Green
• Orange
• Blue
• Black

Then you will need the following.

• Wash soap, poor boys or Megs NXT, (PB SuperSuds is AWESOME)
• MF wash mitt
• two buckets (grit guards are optional)
• 1 clay Bar and lube
• Polish and wax
• MF towels (10 min)
• QD, pick one

After that, you should be able to detial your truck in around 5-8 hours after the FIRST time which should take you at least a full day or more.

Ok, that looks like a lot, and it is...but if you want to go fast that is my recomendation, anything else you will be doing it by hand and that is HARD work.

It can be done, just ask Zaairman or RockPick, Gip-er, F150Sport......and others

I am lazy and I like tools so I do it my way....and that doesn't always work for everyone.

that should open up some questions and VERY, VERY sorry to hijack this thread.


That is a whole other topic and I would encourage you to use the "search" feature.

This is also a whole other topic but I didn't start a thread about it. Lets just say I shot 6 birds and got them before the Land Owner said "get the hell out of here"

Cheers

 

I was introduced to this method after getting my new Tahoe keyed about ten years ago. I still have the 3M rubbing compound. My buddy had managed a detail department with a dealer in Little Rock. He was somewhat knowledgable about these processes.

 

Um hold off on that and use as somewhat a last resort.

Try some Megs ScratchX first and see if that takes care of your problem areas. SX also has some concealing properties with it that is helpful.

Do a search on ScrachX here and you will find a ton of info. Not all compounds are the same. Each has its own property and make up when it comes to CUT factor.

Its ALWAYS best to use the least aggressive method first, then get more aggressive as needed. This is where having a selection of products is key.

Do you have some photos of the problem areas we could look at before getting to crazy on the paint?

RR

 

Is there a one stop shop? Where or who carries this stuff locally?

 

rollingrock wheres the doc. in ur email

 

Not exactly locally but I would buy the PC on ebay, under 100 bucks

Then if you want next day delivery on Lake Pads and Poorboy products you can check this guy out

I just ordered another order tonight to restock some products.

http://www.specialtymotoring.com/

Scott is a good guy down in Houston. He carries the full line of PB products as well as Optimum and ClearKoat.

Many here will tell you in the C&D section I am some what of a PB's bigot.

I love Meg products but my true love is with PB and Optiumum.

I buy all my Megs products exclusively from WashSolutions in Dallas...just off 35 near Parker College. I was just there on Friday to give them some $$.

 

From my experience, 3M FINE rubbing compound takes off very little clearcoat. Thats why I said it would take alot of ELBOW GREASE. The product you suggested may be an equivalent as to what I suggested. To get rid of a scratch, ya dont fill it with wax, you have to take the clearcoat down to the lowest level of the scratch. Maybe I am just crazy, but it worked for me.

 

I only have the "old version" was hoping that Ryan will send you the latest version.

Patience grasshopper. Ryan is a busy young man.

If you need something right now, send me your questions via email and I will take a shot at them.

I think we have hijacked this thread enough.

Back to the OP on this.

JP'

 

This thread was not HIJACKED. We are on topic about detailing!

 

Anything applied by hand takes elbow grease but it's needed sometimes.

Most cut products need heat and pressure to work and breakdown effectively.

I still don't' recommend using a true compund until you try the least aggressive methods first. Here's why. Lets say you have a 50% prepped finish and you go to town with elbow grease using a compund. What are you left with? Dirty paint with a shiny spot that will require more elbow grease to level the surrounding clear to make it blend.

Not disagreeing with you but rather trying to help based on errors I have made in the past.

If you have marring or micro marring AKA spider webbing mild cuts like Megs #80 or #9 will do the trick. With anything deeper you are going to need ScratchX first, then a product with a cut of 5 or more like Megs 82, or PB SSR 2.5 or SSR3.

Its hard to really judge the prop products without seeing the marring.

But I would say if a Cut pad and SSR3 doesn't get it, then I would go to a true compund or wet sand. That is a whole other topic.

 

oh ok i didnt get that from the message

 

D.A.M.N. Noob

This ain't the GD area...make these posts count. People come here for REAL info.



All kidding aside, the C&D section is taken very seriously. This is hard core stuff. You can really jack up your finish on your beloved investment, so the elders take time and patience to make sure we answer questions with as much detail as possible.

That is why I told you not to use that "leather conditioner" a buddy gave you on your new KR.

 

Check your email and my disclaimer

Seriously we need to get back on topic for this thread.

 

07stxcab, sorry we got a tad sideways in there on your thread.

Again, nice work.

JP

 

Did not get the conditioner from a buddy...my buddy taught me to wet sand and use the 3M FINE compound to get a nice finish on a scratch. He managed the Chevy House detail shop in Little Rock. It was the same stuff they used at the dealership remove scratches from new arrivals. That crap conditioner came from the Ford dealer. I bought the KR last week. Conditioned my leather yesterday, and the seats sucked the stuff up.