orange peel... and 1 other thing...

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Old Aug 7, 2007 | 01:39 PM
  #16  
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From: The Bluegrass State
Originally Posted by WaxDaddyUk
... it depends on whether it is the clear coat or colour coat that has OP.

If its the clear then wet sanding will remove it. If it is the paint coat then you will have to wet sand off the whole of the clear coat which is not advisable as the clear is there for a reason and will lead to UV damage of the paint.

Wet sanding is really the last thing to do. I personally would not recommend it as it can lead to clearcoat failure. It certainly isnt something to do on a whole truck.
What he said. That's the bottom line in my opinion.
 
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Old Aug 7, 2007 | 08:42 PM
  #17  
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i got the pics of the spots on the tailgate. it may seem trivial to you guys, but it isnt to me. i would really like to get rid of them.



 
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Old Aug 7, 2007 | 09:51 PM
  #18  
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That looks like paint contaminant (sp?) not orange peel. .
 
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Old Aug 7, 2007 | 10:42 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by troberts6874
no guage needed...dont colorsand a factory paint for the entire car...only do cars from bodyshop you trust and with 4 coats of clear to work with. know that clear is thinner on sharp edges you will be fine. i have colorsanded several cars from 33/34 ford coupe, 37 ford sedan, 69 camaro, 53 f100, 32 ford hiboy....and so on
IMO No car should be wet sanded without using a gauge. Otherwise you have no idea how much clear you're working with, or how much you've gone through. And lets not forget the OP's car is an 05. Not some car from the 30's with "4 layers of clear."

ThumperMX113- dont believe he was taking a picture of the orange peel.
cdnance- have you tried a paint cleaner, or any polish? You can also try an alcohol wipe down for those spots.
 

Last edited by 03gtmustang; Aug 7, 2007 at 10:57 PM.
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Old Aug 7, 2007 | 11:32 PM
  #20  
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yeah sorry i didnt explain. that is what is on the tailgate. i didnt take a picture of the orange peel. i have tried everything i know how to do, including clay and i cant get it off. any ideas or suggestions?
 
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Old Aug 7, 2007 | 11:57 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by cdnance
yeah sorry i didnt explain. that is what is on the tailgate. i didnt take a picture of the orange peel. i have tried everything i know how to do, including clay and i cant get it off. any ideas or suggestions?

Can you feel the bumps/specs?
 
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Old Aug 8, 2007 | 02:10 AM
  #22  
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before i washed it yes, after i wash no. then when you clay, it looks like the clay is taking it off, as in it changes color a few times, then the clay keeps coming back clean. but the spot is still there.
 
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Old Aug 8, 2007 | 02:27 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by cdnance
before i washed it yes, after i wash no. then when you clay, it looks like the clay is taking it off, as in it changes color a few times, then the clay keeps coming back clean. but the spot is still there.
What clay kit are you using?

Blue Megs? White?
 
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Old Aug 8, 2007 | 08:43 AM
  #24  
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How about this then....Orange Peel on a Brand New '07 F150 Harley.......




I concur with the view that a paint gauge is use. I use a gauge on all machine or wet sanding work as a definate first step. You need to see how the level lies.Especially if there is a collision repair either you or the owner doesnt know about......
Then again, i guess I use mine as an insurance policy...if I can prove its too thin then I dont risk it or damage my rep. All jobs get a diagram showing paint thicknesses in 12 points before I discuss what needs doing with the client.
 

Last edited by WaxDaddyUk; Aug 8, 2007 at 08:46 AM.
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Old Aug 8, 2007 | 11:23 AM
  #25  
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my guage is, do not do a factory paint job...only with atleast 3 clear coats, but i like 4 for added insurance. on a custom paint job, you dont stop sanding till its dead flat. if you wet colorsanded before and dried the wet spots you will see when its flat.

in my opinion a guage meter is a gimick if you use it for colorsanding guide. it tells you how thick the "paint" is. that would included everything above the metal. primer,color and clear. so you would still be guessing how thick the clear is, it does not tell you how thick the primer coat is how thick the color coat is and how thick the clear coat is...it gives you the total of all coats....the meter would be good if you are looking for thickness of paint to see if a car was a respray, or stripped down to bare metal. or to see how thick the body filler might be...but to judge the thickness of clear alone it will not do that to my knowledge...
 

Last edited by troberts6874; Aug 8, 2007 at 11:31 AM.
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Old Aug 8, 2007 | 04:53 PM
  #26  
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I can understand your views.Most PTg's only measure from the metal to the top of the paint level. You have no way of knowing how many layers of clear/paint and primer have been used. you can use the standard theroy that there is 25% primer, 25% pigment coat then 50% clear but this again is only a guide.

Different car manufacturers can/will have different amounts and thicknesses of clear so again the PTG is only there for a guide.

If I was only doing my car, would I use a PTG?...no....but I do use it on clients vehicles as an insurance policy so that I know if there has been a repair somewhere.

There is a PTG that can measure three layers however...

http://www.dftinstruments.co.uk/p200/p200.php




But as you can guess this is expensive and possibly beyond what the home detailer would want to buy.

So, it depends on what you are doing. At the end of the day, detailers get all caught up with removing microns of clear/paint and I have trouble understanding how a simple PTG can be that accurate everytime. A friend who is an engineer told me once that a smoke particle is 10microns, so the average detailer removing one micron allover a vehicle is debateable and possibly not a subject to hijack this thread with. Sorry...

Kev
 
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