OK, so Friday I took the afternoon and did some scrubbing on my truck. It really needed it as it hadnt been given the full treatment in longer than I care to mention. I used the Megs 3-step products except instead of the 1st step I clay-barred the whole truck. Used the Megs clay bar with the QD spray that comes with it.

Here's what I did:

1) washed with Dawn dish-soap to strip all the old stuff off. Dryed with shammys.

2) Used the clay bar over the entire truck. One section at a time, on the shady side of the truck (was late afternnon so not too warm out) spending some extra time on a few scuff marks from doors and some a** that brushed my truck with his mirror over my wheel well.

3) Used the step #2 polish over the whole truck making sure I didnt let it dry as per the directions. Again on the shady side of the truck.

4) Used the step #3 carnuba wax, applied by hand applicator (scared to use the buffer, plus we were a tad tipsy by then). Allowed to dry, then removed by hand.


It looks pretty good, but not as deep a shine as I've seen in the past. Just looks really clean rather than that deep look. Is that due to stripping all the old stuff off first and then claying it (never done that before) or from the heat and the polish? Does it just need another coat or two? We had to stop after one coat just due to the time.
Also, since its been a few days, can I just use a soap that doesnt take wax off, dry it and then wax it again or should I do all three steps (#1 this time, not the clay bar) over again?
Lastly, I purchased the Megs NXT and wanted to try that out. Can I apply that over the step #3 carnuba wax? Or should I strip it and put the NXT on first (more than one coat?), then use the carnuba step #3 over that instead?


TIA for any input, I've never been able to do a whole 3-step process before and never clay-barred before. Dont think I screwed anything up but the lack of depth to the shine has me concerned. Again, thanks all.




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Layering Carnuba wax really won't give you any better results. The only purpose of doing that would be to cover any spots that you missed. The NXT would work fine under the Step 3 since it is a synthetic. I don't know why you would not be getting "deep, wet" results with the Step 2 and Step 3 products. Next time try the polish, followed with NXT, and top it off with the Carnuba wax. After you have used up your 3 Step products you can experiment with different products like #26, P21S, Pinnacle, etc.

 

Oh, one more thing. Did you re-wash after the clay bar. I don't know that this matters, but it could possible be a factor. I guess it depends on what you used as lubrication for the clay bar.

 

No, I didnt. Was I supposed to? For the lubricant I used the Megs QD spray that came withthe clay bars, so I think thats okay, but I didnt wash it after clay barring it. Now you have me kinda worried....

 

Sorry...no reason to be worried. If you use the QD spray then you don't have to rewash. I always use Tropi-Care car wash soap and distilled water so, obviously, I have to rewash the vehicle. I tried the QD spray once and I was not a real big fan. Obviously it's more work, but I like to use the car wash solution. I'm not real sure why...probably because that's just the method I used first.

 

You need better prep before applying the wax. Possibly better products too.

 

On my last rig I used a professional liquid that was sold only in Auto Body repair paint stores. After several years I switched to Mothers Carnuba Paste. No problem. Shiny as a baby's butt.

When I wax with Mothers Carnuba Paste I always apply the paste. Buff out to a no swirl shine, than add a second coat of Carnuba and buff. I do notice the difference in a better shine. I have a feeling, and I have not tested this with a Wax Micrometer (joke and drum roll), but I have the feeling the second coat of Carnuba adheres the the original coat of Carnuba, making two coats better than one.

Guys - I have read these testimonials on liquids, clay, waxes, buffing tools and how-to's. I agree with all of them because it is a matter of owner's satisfaction. But my method is best. Ha! I own both a Sears and Porter Cable orbiter and use both when doing my waxing.
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I would concur. The results from any detail will come in the prep steps. The Deep Crystal system is an okay consumer end type of product that yields pretty good results for most end users but, there are several discernable differences between professional products and consumer products.

Keep in mind, results are judged by an individual and every individual has an opinion. What some consider to be fantastic may only be average to the next guy. What is average to one Joe might be stellar to the next.

... all in the eyes of the beholder!

 

Carnauba wax wont get rid of swirls, it only hides minor ones for the time being, which is only a couple months depending on which one you're using, paint color, and the climate.

 

Your possibly correct. After 35+ years of waxing I must be blind.

 

OK, better prep. What should I change and whats the best way to get back to square one to do this right from the beginning?

Also, it sounds like the NXT is ok to keep, but I need to get better stuff for the rest. Without breaking the bank whats the best bet for a polish and a wax then? Best place to find them?
I hear about Gold Class and a bunch of numbered waxes, but not much on the polishes.
Any large difference in clay bars or can I use the extra Megs one I have with the QD?

Thanks for the input all, I thought I was doing things right before but I guess thats what I get for thinking

 

I have heard great things about Meguiars #80 for the polish and #26 for the carnuba wax. I have never used them myself, but guys on here swear by them. Personally, I love Tropi-Care products, but they are not the cheapest and you have to order them.

 

After being a NXT user (and Liquid Glass before that) I tried #26 and now like the smoother more natural shine of #26 over the saran wrap artificial look of NXT. To me NXT is better if you plan on just washing and waxing but #26 is better if you do a polish step before waxing.

My combo I'm going to be sticking with for a while is Autoglym Super Resin Polish with #26 over-top. All done by hand: (Someone did a swirl remover test with a bunch of polishes only by hand complete with pics of each and Autoglym Super Resin Polish was the clear winner, it is absolutely fantastic for only hand work, the pic below is only one pass with it)



The guy that did the test did up to five passes with each polish, lol, next time I do mine I'm gonna step it up a notch and go for at least three passes and maybe two coats of #26 instead of one.

 

Oh here's the link to the polishes done by hand shootout http://autopia.org/forum/hall-fame/7...tml#post786235

I can vouch for the results of the Super Resin Polish, and I only did one pass with it, not five, lol.

 

Wow, great link! Exactly what I was looking for, love to see a wax shootout now too!
Has anyone ever made a list of all the numbered waxes and polishes and their applications and results?

So from the subtle hints I'm getting, it seems like polishing is the key in getting the best result from waxing. I'll order a bottle or two of that Autoglym Super Resin Polish. Guess I'll just stick with the NXT wax for now since I already have it and it doesnt seem to be too horrible. Just the NXT or use the carnuba also? If both, which first?