First time detailing
First time detailing
Before I came here, I considered my Expedition "well washed" with just some basic water and Zip Turtle wash. I'd only use one bucket, and would use a terry towel to "scrub." After I'd finish, I'd dry it with a drying cloth (the purple ones they have at Walmart), then wax it with Nanowax. For the tires, I'd just use what ever tire shine I had (NXT Insane, Armor All, etc.)
This time, I'm trying to improve my ways
Went out today and bought the following items at WalMart:
-Microfiber mitt
-Microfiber Drying towel
-Pack Assorted Microfiber towels (little ones)
-Meguiar's Scratch X
-Meguiar's Hot Shine Tire Shine
Total Cost: 27 dollars
Also ordered some 303 Aerospace Protectant and Optimum Opti-shine.
Total Cost: Around 42 dollars
Already have the following items:
-Zip Turtle Wash
-Tire Brush
-Rubbing Compound (don't know what I would use this for, just mentioning it)
-Nanowax
Total Cost: Around 20 dollars
Been reading, so this is what I plan on doing:
1. Wet the Expy thoroughly, and procede to wash it with Zip wash using the mitt. Use two bucket method. Scrub tires with brush.
2. Dry using the microfiber drying towel.
3. Work on spider scratches with Scratch X. (Might need help here) Use one or two of the microfiber towels.
4. Wax with Nanowax. After this, if tires are dry, apply tire shine.
5. Apply 303 protectant.
6. Apply Opti-shine everywhere.
Am I misusing any of the above products? I know this is bad, but I haven't washed my car in a while (a month or more.) I also plan on using the above procedure with my friend's Mustang, and my other friend's Durnago. I might get a clay bar later.
Here's some pictures of my car. Yes, those are dried love bugs in front.


Thanks in advance
This time, I'm trying to improve my ways

Went out today and bought the following items at WalMart:
-Microfiber mitt
-Microfiber Drying towel
-Pack Assorted Microfiber towels (little ones)
-Meguiar's Scratch X
-Meguiar's Hot Shine Tire Shine
Total Cost: 27 dollars
Also ordered some 303 Aerospace Protectant and Optimum Opti-shine.
Total Cost: Around 42 dollars
Already have the following items:
-Zip Turtle Wash
-Tire Brush
-Rubbing Compound (don't know what I would use this for, just mentioning it)
-Nanowax
Total Cost: Around 20 dollars
Been reading, so this is what I plan on doing:
1. Wet the Expy thoroughly, and procede to wash it with Zip wash using the mitt. Use two bucket method. Scrub tires with brush.
2. Dry using the microfiber drying towel.
3. Work on spider scratches with Scratch X. (Might need help here) Use one or two of the microfiber towels.
4. Wax with Nanowax. After this, if tires are dry, apply tire shine.
5. Apply 303 protectant.
6. Apply Opti-shine everywhere.
Am I misusing any of the above products? I know this is bad, but I haven't washed my car in a while (a month or more.) I also plan on using the above procedure with my friend's Mustang, and my other friend's Durnago. I might get a clay bar later.
Here's some pictures of my car. Yes, those are dried love bugs in front.


Thanks in advance
Last edited by ELVATO; May 21, 2007 at 10:33 PM.
Originally Posted by ELVATO
Am I misusing any of the above products? I know this is bad, but I haven't washed my car in a while (a month or more.) I also plan on using the above procedure with my friend's Mustang, and my other friend's Durnago. I might get a clay bar later.
Thanks in advance
Thanks in advance

It looks like you're willing to fork out a few dollars for some good products so, I may suggest upgrading your wash... although, it's not a super big deal if you're using it before you wax and such... the Zip Wax stuff just really isn't that good of a product. Consider spending $6 on a bottle of Meguiar's Gold Class or Meguiar's NXT wash -- get the Gold Class if you have the pick between the two.
Secondly, don't skimp on the clay bar. You probably want to do this step. For $10, you're in there. It's SUPER simple. It is VERY effective. Don't be scared of this step... it's a very important one in proper preparation of the paint -- which any detailer will tell you is the ABSOLUTE MOST IMPORTANT part of any detail.
So, for $20 more, you're stepping it up another notch.
-RP-
Its hard to actually see the finish on your car, I would say your missing a few steps but that really all depends on what you expect/want your finish to finally look like.
Meguiars has a nice little quick info on a show car finish.
http://www.meguiars.com
Prep work in 90% of everything.
Wash your vehicle with Dawn dishwashing liquid, this will take off all the old wax and leave your paint unprotected.
Meguiars quick lube and a clay bar is next. this will remove any contaminates from the painted surface.
Now your ready to inspect your finish. figure out what needs to be done at that point before you apply the protection.
I have seen on some vehicles the minor scratching is in the old protectant wax and no amount of wax on top of that is going to remove it.
Its best to start fresh so you know where your at.
Towels are a VERY important part. the "microfiber" ones from wally world maybe i would use on glass but not on my paint. google for micro fiber and you will read that they are not all created equal.
a suggestion is to go to some place like Bed Bath Beyond and get some good 100% cotton towels ( white ), I have better towels for my car then for me.
One can go on and on about whats the "correct" way to detail. It depends on how much time you really want/have to spend and what your expecting as the end result.
***
On Edit:
NEVER use dishwashing liquid unless you want to completely remove the wax, so when you wash it again , use a quality car wash product.
on that note: dont bring your car to a car wash for like the local schools/sports teams/etc to help them raise money, you may be doing more harm then good , just give them a donation and say thanks.
***
I need to do detail my truck before Carlisle, I'm expecting its going to take me a weekend to fully do.
Meguiars has a nice little quick info on a show car finish.
http://www.meguiars.com
Prep work in 90% of everything.
Wash your vehicle with Dawn dishwashing liquid, this will take off all the old wax and leave your paint unprotected.
Meguiars quick lube and a clay bar is next. this will remove any contaminates from the painted surface.
Now your ready to inspect your finish. figure out what needs to be done at that point before you apply the protection.
I have seen on some vehicles the minor scratching is in the old protectant wax and no amount of wax on top of that is going to remove it.
Its best to start fresh so you know where your at.
Towels are a VERY important part. the "microfiber" ones from wally world maybe i would use on glass but not on my paint. google for micro fiber and you will read that they are not all created equal.
a suggestion is to go to some place like Bed Bath Beyond and get some good 100% cotton towels ( white ), I have better towels for my car then for me.
One can go on and on about whats the "correct" way to detail. It depends on how much time you really want/have to spend and what your expecting as the end result.
***
On Edit:
NEVER use dishwashing liquid unless you want to completely remove the wax, so when you wash it again , use a quality car wash product.
on that note: dont bring your car to a car wash for like the local schools/sports teams/etc to help them raise money, you may be doing more harm then good , just give them a donation and say thanks.
***
I need to do detail my truck before Carlisle, I'm expecting its going to take me a weekend to fully do.
Last edited by Roush8702; May 22, 2007 at 10:49 AM.
Ok, thanks guys. I'll go see if I can get a clay bar and maybe some new wash
The sun is out now, so I'll take one more "before" picture of the car.
EDIT: Well, I went out and got a Smooth Surface Clay kit from Meguiar's from Advanced Auto Parts and some NXT car wash from Walmart.
Total Cost: 24 dollars
I have a question, though. The Clay kit comes w/ two bars, a quick detailer, a microfiber towel, and some cleaner wax. What is the cleaner wax for? Do I use it instead of my Nanowax?
Ok, here is the list, revised:
1. Wet the Expy thoroughly, and procede to wash it with Dawn soap using one of the microfiber towels. Dry it.
2. Go around car with the clay bar and lubricant.
3. Re-wash again using the NXT car wash, and using the mitt and two bucket system.
4. Dry using the microfiber drying towel.
5. Work on spider scratches with Scratch X. (Might need help here) Use one or two of the microfiber towels.
6. Wax with Nanowax (or cleaner wax from kit?). After this, if tires are dry, apply tire shine.
7. Apply 303 protectant.
8. Apply Opti-shine everywhere.
Here's a shot of my hood. It was kinnda cloudy so the side shots didn't really come out.

Also, what is this? Mold? Can I take it off with some bleach? I've scrubbed before when washing my car and it won't come off.

Thanks for all the help.
The sun is out now, so I'll take one more "before" picture of the car.EDIT: Well, I went out and got a Smooth Surface Clay kit from Meguiar's from Advanced Auto Parts and some NXT car wash from Walmart.
Total Cost: 24 dollars
I have a question, though. The Clay kit comes w/ two bars, a quick detailer, a microfiber towel, and some cleaner wax. What is the cleaner wax for? Do I use it instead of my Nanowax?
Ok, here is the list, revised:
1. Wet the Expy thoroughly, and procede to wash it with Dawn soap using one of the microfiber towels. Dry it.
2. Go around car with the clay bar and lubricant.
3. Re-wash again using the NXT car wash, and using the mitt and two bucket system.
4. Dry using the microfiber drying towel.
5. Work on spider scratches with Scratch X. (Might need help here) Use one or two of the microfiber towels.
6. Wax with Nanowax (or cleaner wax from kit?). After this, if tires are dry, apply tire shine.
7. Apply 303 protectant.
8. Apply Opti-shine everywhere.
Here's a shot of my hood. It was kinnda cloudy so the side shots didn't really come out.

Also, what is this? Mold? Can I take it off with some bleach? I've scrubbed before when washing my car and it won't come off.

Thanks for all the help.
Last edited by ELVATO; May 22, 2007 at 03:17 PM.
I kinnda made my roomate's Durango my testing car with the projects. As you can see, I didn't really get the love bugs off because this was done at a car wash, and the water timer kept running out. I didn't clay it (I want it to last for my car) nor did I wash it with dish soap. Then again, I don't think that car had any wax to strip off.
From what I could see, the Scratch X took care of some of the spider scratches, but it seemed to have "brought out" some other ones. Maybe I'm not doing it right.
Well, here are some before and after shots.
Before:


After:


On a final note, don't know if it was the Opti-shine or the Scratch X, but the hood kind of shimmers when seeing reflections of street lights.
From what I could see, the Scratch X took care of some of the spider scratches, but it seemed to have "brought out" some other ones. Maybe I'm not doing it right.
Well, here are some before and after shots.
Before:


After:


On a final note, don't know if it was the Opti-shine or the Scratch X, but the hood kind of shimmers when seeing reflections of street lights.
Any thing you need
Look over this site http://www.autogeek.net/ if you need something or you can not find it other places. Meguiars and Liquid Glass have all their products here, try Meguiars #34 Final Inspection after your truck is dry or even the next day. It will remove all spots and other items.
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DO NOT USE BLEACH!!!!!
Mold would wash off -- if it's mold. Hard call on this one, sight unseen.
Dealing with rubber/plastic molding is always a crap shoot on the types of chemicals that you choose to attack a problem. Rubber isn't incredibly resiliant and can definitely show signs of problems with little to no effort and, as such, you should be VERY careful as to what you use to clean or abrade such areas.
My suggestion is simple car wash shampoo in a Dixie cup, mixed with water, and a soft bristled tooth brush. Do not 'scrub' hard.
-RP-
Mold would wash off -- if it's mold. Hard call on this one, sight unseen.
Dealing with rubber/plastic molding is always a crap shoot on the types of chemicals that you choose to attack a problem. Rubber isn't incredibly resiliant and can definitely show signs of problems with little to no effort and, as such, you should be VERY careful as to what you use to clean or abrade such areas.
My suggestion is simple car wash shampoo in a Dixie cup, mixed with water, and a soft bristled tooth brush. Do not 'scrub' hard.
-RP-
Originally Posted by FALCON50EX
Look over this site http://www.autogeek.net/ if you need something or you can not find it other places. Meguiars and Liquid Glass have all their products here, try Meguiars #34 Final Inspection after your truck is dry or even the next day. It will remove all spots and other items.

Ok, thanks for the tip/reminder on the bleach. I'll try to lightly scrub it out. I'll do my car this weekend, and maybe my parent's F250
Will post pix.
Update:
Well, I was busy all this Memorial weekend. One car each day, early in the morning.
Here's some pictures of the "results," and of the products I used.




Saturday, did my parent's F250. I used all the above products, except the Color X, which I bough on Sunday. The clay bar was picking up lots of white paint specks off the hood. Must have been when we painted outside. Also, for this one, I used the cleaner wax that came with the clay kit, instead of using the nanowax.
Sunday, did my sister's Mustang. I like how it came out (maybe it was the Color X.) The tire shine didn't really show up on here much.
Monday, I did my car, the Expedition. Taking off those dried love bugs was a PITA. Was able to get most of them off.
Didn't have time for my dad's 97' F150 work truck, which was also covered with love bugs. Poor thing is so dull in color. I think I might do it next time I go down.
Basically, they all followed the same procedure:
Dawn wash, dry, clay, NXT wash, dry, Scratch X, Color X(not the F250), Wax, Opti-seal, tire shine, Windows, interior. Since the 303 isn't here yet, I did the outside mirrors with The Black Magic protectant and finished it with the Opti-seal.
All of this by hand, so yea, I'm a little tired. (3-4 hours each.)
Overall, I was very pleased with the results, more so with the red cars. All the cars came out smooth to the touch and a bit more reflective and deeper in color than just washing and waxing alone. Still, I have some questions for future treatments.
1) The Scratch X and Color X were able to take out some of the scratches, and give the cars a "deeper" color. Still, there were plenty of circular scratches left, only seen when the sun reflects off the surface, kinnda like the ones on the Durango. What would I need?
2) On the F250, there are these water mark looking things that you can't see till you're up close. It doesn't feel like they are on top of the paint, so from what I've read they're "in" the paint. Are they there for good?
3) What exactly does Opti-seal do? Does it protect the paint, or is it just "for show?" I do like how it gives the tailights a nice reflective touch, though I still don't know if it was worth the 32 bucks. Also, when it's done drying, it sometimes leaves behind some sort of build-up. Maybe this is the streaking they refer to when using too much?
4) Do I need to get a "polish" or are all the products enough? If I do need one, which would you recommend?
5) I did each step practically one right after the other. Do I have to wait between steps?
Sorry if these are too many questions, just trying to learn. Thanks for your time.
Well, I was busy all this Memorial weekend. One car each day, early in the morning.
Here's some pictures of the "results," and of the products I used.




Saturday, did my parent's F250. I used all the above products, except the Color X, which I bough on Sunday. The clay bar was picking up lots of white paint specks off the hood. Must have been when we painted outside. Also, for this one, I used the cleaner wax that came with the clay kit, instead of using the nanowax.
Sunday, did my sister's Mustang. I like how it came out (maybe it was the Color X.) The tire shine didn't really show up on here much.
Monday, I did my car, the Expedition. Taking off those dried love bugs was a PITA. Was able to get most of them off.
Didn't have time for my dad's 97' F150 work truck, which was also covered with love bugs. Poor thing is so dull in color. I think I might do it next time I go down.
Basically, they all followed the same procedure:
Dawn wash, dry, clay, NXT wash, dry, Scratch X, Color X(not the F250), Wax, Opti-seal, tire shine, Windows, interior. Since the 303 isn't here yet, I did the outside mirrors with The Black Magic protectant and finished it with the Opti-seal.
All of this by hand, so yea, I'm a little tired. (3-4 hours each.)
Overall, I was very pleased with the results, more so with the red cars. All the cars came out smooth to the touch and a bit more reflective and deeper in color than just washing and waxing alone. Still, I have some questions for future treatments.
1) The Scratch X and Color X were able to take out some of the scratches, and give the cars a "deeper" color. Still, there were plenty of circular scratches left, only seen when the sun reflects off the surface, kinnda like the ones on the Durango. What would I need?
2) On the F250, there are these water mark looking things that you can't see till you're up close. It doesn't feel like they are on top of the paint, so from what I've read they're "in" the paint. Are they there for good?
3) What exactly does Opti-seal do? Does it protect the paint, or is it just "for show?" I do like how it gives the tailights a nice reflective touch, though I still don't know if it was worth the 32 bucks. Also, when it's done drying, it sometimes leaves behind some sort of build-up. Maybe this is the streaking they refer to when using too much?
4) Do I need to get a "polish" or are all the products enough? If I do need one, which would you recommend?
5) I did each step practically one right after the other. Do I have to wait between steps?
Sorry if these are too many questions, just trying to learn. Thanks for your time.
Last edited by ELVATO; May 29, 2007 at 02:28 PM.
--No such thing as too many questions (as long as they're not retarted--but yours weren't...They were all very valid)
Color-X is usually good at removing about 30% of swirls with each application, so if you're not interested in spending any more $$$, this may be a good route (same with S-X, only it works faster) alternately, you could get some #80 from ADS. A D/A would greatly benefit you for swirl removal.
For the water spots, try your Scratch-X first to see if you can get anywhere (don't be afraid to use it 2-3 times). If that doesn't work, you may need to invest in #83 or you might get by with multiple applications of #80. a D/A will be practically essential here. BUT-- if you don't want to do that, get a POLISHING compound (not a rubbing compound) (see this). Now remember, this WILL induce severe swirling. That's why it's not my favorite method, but I have used it with great success. If you use it, don't use a lot of downforce, and know that you'll have to use either (or both) Color-x or Scratch-X on all the places you used this stuff on.
The Opti-Seal is a protectant, much like a wax. whether or not it's legitamate is still questionable IMO, but I'm supposed to borrow some from a local user of it soon. It does sound like you're using too much, but it may be inadequate removal of the excess. Are you using good quality MF towels???
To put it into the words of RP:
You'll only need to wait if you are using synthetic waxes (12 hours before any other products are applied. This allows curing time. Otherwise, you're good to go.)
Good luck! BTW-- all the vehicles look GREAT. (in best Borat voice:"Very nice, How much?")
Color-X is usually good at removing about 30% of swirls with each application, so if you're not interested in spending any more $$$, this may be a good route (same with S-X, only it works faster) alternately, you could get some #80 from ADS. A D/A would greatly benefit you for swirl removal.
For the water spots, try your Scratch-X first to see if you can get anywhere (don't be afraid to use it 2-3 times). If that doesn't work, you may need to invest in #83 or you might get by with multiple applications of #80. a D/A will be practically essential here. BUT-- if you don't want to do that, get a POLISHING compound (not a rubbing compound) (see this). Now remember, this WILL induce severe swirling. That's why it's not my favorite method, but I have used it with great success. If you use it, don't use a lot of downforce, and know that you'll have to use either (or both) Color-x or Scratch-X on all the places you used this stuff on.
The Opti-Seal is a protectant, much like a wax. whether or not it's legitamate is still questionable IMO, but I'm supposed to borrow some from a local user of it soon. It does sound like you're using too much, but it may be inadequate removal of the excess. Are you using good quality MF towels???
To put it into the words of RP:
Kind of a loaded question...
Most of us here will tell you absolutely ... me included. But, beauty is the eyes of the beholder. If you're satisfied with what you have accomplished and can live with slight swirling (if it's there) or slight oxidation (which is likely not there) and other slight paint blemishes (which may or may not be there)...
Then forgo the polishing step.
Most everyone here will concur that you'll note a difference but, it's not a huge one... everyone here would be lying to you if they told that it was... it's simply not one.
What it will do for most is deal with those slight paint problems that I mentioned and raise the entire look up to another level if done properly.
-RP-
Most of us here will tell you absolutely ... me included. But, beauty is the eyes of the beholder. If you're satisfied with what you have accomplished and can live with slight swirling (if it's there) or slight oxidation (which is likely not there) and other slight paint blemishes (which may or may not be there)...
Then forgo the polishing step.
Most everyone here will concur that you'll note a difference but, it's not a huge one... everyone here would be lying to you if they told that it was... it's simply not one.
What it will do for most is deal with those slight paint problems that I mentioned and raise the entire look up to another level if done properly.
-RP-
Good luck! BTW-- all the vehicles look GREAT. (in best Borat voice:"Very nice, How much?")
Thanks 
Right now, I'm applying Scratch X and Color X all over the car. Maybe I'll need do two coats of Color X next time.
As for the Opti-seal, it says to just spray on, spread with applicator, and leave it like that. I've been having to remove what seems to be an excess with the MF towels. Yes, they are the cheap Walmart type. I'll be ordering some Cobra ones from Autogeek.net, along with some other goodies.
To kind of answer my own question, I guess I'll go ahead and order a polish, to apply after the Color X. Any recommendations? The Poorboy and Klasse both look good. Hmm, so many choices.
Again, thanks for the help.

Right now, I'm applying Scratch X and Color X all over the car. Maybe I'll need do two coats of Color X next time.
As for the Opti-seal, it says to just spray on, spread with applicator, and leave it like that. I've been having to remove what seems to be an excess with the MF towels. Yes, they are the cheap Walmart type. I'll be ordering some Cobra ones from Autogeek.net, along with some other goodies.

To kind of answer my own question, I guess I'll go ahead and order a polish, to apply after the Color X. Any recommendations? The Poorboy and Klasse both look good. Hmm, so many choices.
Again, thanks for the help.
By using the cheapo wallyworld MF towels, You're essentially making your efforts in vain. Some of them may be OK, but most of them will induce swirling due to the cheap manufacturing and materials.
-The polishes I use are: #9 if I need to hide a few swirls, #7 if there's no swirls
I'm pretty amazed that you're using S-X all over the car...It's sometimes a booger when using over a large surface area. It is, though, a really good product for removing the vast majority of the swirling.
So do you have a machine??? (ie
/A or rotary)
-The polishes I use are: #9 if I need to hide a few swirls, #7 if there's no swirls
I'm pretty amazed that you're using S-X all over the car...It's sometimes a booger when using over a large surface area. It is, though, a really good product for removing the vast majority of the swirling.
So do you have a machine??? (ie
/A or rotary)


