Follow up after using #4
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From: Mishawaka, IN.
Follow up after using #4
I did a test spot on the inside painted part of my tailgate today with the Megs #4 heavy cut cleaner. It gave a haze after I applied it, and I did so admittedly by hand. And I left it like that on purpose so I know what to use as a follow up. While the #4 states it is specifically for acid rain etch (which I have) I'm a little leary about using it on my hood after the tail gate haze incident. Right now I'm think the #83 is as about as heavy as I should go.
Comments?
And no, I haven't done anything with yet Mr. RockPick. Ha-ha.
I sure can't blame it on the weather now.
Comments?
And no, I haven't done anything with yet Mr. RockPick. Ha-ha.
I sure can't blame it on the weather now.
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Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 31,440
Likes: 4
From: The Bluegrass State
As I've previously stated, I don't have much experience with #4... I have never found the need for it -- heck, I don't think I own it.
On a dark truck, anything with a heavier cut will require you to follow with something with less cut to knock down the mar that the previous product will create. This *IS NOT* a one step polishing process -- especially to remove etch.
Think of it this way -- you're using 3500 grit sandpaper on the paint (albeit in liquid form). You have to use something else to knock off the sandpaper 'scuff'.
So... from #4, your next logical choice is somewhere in the realm of #80.
Also, I don't think that #4 is a PC product. It's designed for rotary use, to my recollection. I know similar products with similar cuts certainly aren't designed for the PC. The PC, as you probably know, can't generate the heat nor RPMs necessary to really break down the buffered abrasives (diminishing micro-abrasives) to do the job. FYI.
On a dark truck, anything with a heavier cut will require you to follow with something with less cut to knock down the mar that the previous product will create. This *IS NOT* a one step polishing process -- especially to remove etch.
Think of it this way -- you're using 3500 grit sandpaper on the paint (albeit in liquid form). You have to use something else to knock off the sandpaper 'scuff'.
So... from #4, your next logical choice is somewhere in the realm of #80.
Also, I don't think that #4 is a PC product. It's designed for rotary use, to my recollection. I know similar products with similar cuts certainly aren't designed for the PC. The PC, as you probably know, can't generate the heat nor RPMs necessary to really break down the buffered abrasives (diminishing micro-abrasives) to do the job. FYI.
