Removing paint transfer
#1
#3
What I've used in the past is Turtle Wax rubbing compound, followed by S-X (to remove the swirls left behind) then a polish, then wax to taste.
If I was you, I'd get the stuff in the green can (I believe they call it a polishing compound). If that doesn't work, you can step up to the rubbing compound in the red tin. I've never seen a vehicle, though, that was helped much by the stuff in the red tin. It's overly abrasive, and leaves red stains if you're not careful.
Have fun.
If I was you, I'd get the stuff in the green can (I believe they call it a polishing compound). If that doesn't work, you can step up to the rubbing compound in the red tin. I've never seen a vehicle, though, that was helped much by the stuff in the red tin. It's overly abrasive, and leaves red stains if you're not careful.
Have fun.
#4
I'd try Meguiar's Cleaner Wax first. If that didn't work, I'd move up to the Scratch-X product. If neither of those work, you can move on to the more aggressive rubbing compounds.
My guess is that one of the first two products will probably work -- I've been surprised by the type of blemishes those products have removed from my vehicles.
My guess is that one of the first two products will probably work -- I've been surprised by the type of blemishes those products have removed from my vehicles.
#5
Here is what I've done to cars, both my own and customers. Spray some carb cleaner or laquer thinner onto a rag (do not spray onto the paint), and wipe the streak off. You don't want to keep the paint wet for long, but most paint/plastic marks come off in one or two quick wipes with no damage to the paint. Factory paint, along with quality refinish paints, are way more durable than most people realize. If you don't believe this, you could try it in a hidden area.