-------------------------------------------------------
>>>Sounds like you've got a great P/B&E shop there<<<
-------------------------------------------------------


To be sure. And they deffinetly love to sell stuff. $100.00 later they threw in a 4 pack of the Gold Class sponge applicators. And I bought up all of the Gold Medallion prods they had left. I love the GM paint cleaner. Why is all the good stuff being discontinued?

>>> if it doesn't work, Meguiar's will buy it back -- just call the 800 number...".<<<

Yes, this is what the paint shop fellas told me. If the #2 didn't work [that well] they would indeed, take it back. I think it will be fine however. At least it worked pretty well by hand with half as much rubbing compared to the Scratch-X. I must say though, I was really happy with the results of the Scratch-X too.

I'm not really sure how to handle the the Show Car Glaze. I'm assuming I would use the SCG after the #2 and the S-X?

(i.e.) Clay > paint cleaner > #2 > Scratch-X > Show Car Glaze > sealant > then wax, in that order?

 

If things look great to you after #2, then you can stop right there if you want and apply your sealant and or wax. If you do use the S-X, then use it before SCG or any sealant or wax.

You can apply the show car glaze right after polishing and it will make the sruface look nice and wet. You can leave that as your last step, but SCG doesn't offer much protection (its a beauty product). Ideally, you'll want to lock it down with a good wax. You've already got S100 on hand, so why not use that. SCG is tricky to work with when using it under a wax and it streaks a lot.

If you don't want to hassle with SCG (it can sometimes be a hassle), you can simply apply the S100 right after polishing and be done with it.

If you apply SCG after polishing, you'll want to apply it *thin* and wipe it down afterwards. You can apply it to the entire car if you wish, but then wipe it down real good. You may still see some streaking, but it will usually go away when applying your wax as long as SCG was applied thin enough. If too much SCG is left on the surface after wiping it down, it will be very hard to remove later on, so make sure to get it on there thin enough so it will wipe down more easily.

 

Like qadsan mentioned, #7 is a beautification product -- and it works quite well (especially on dark colors) but, it can be a mammoth of a beast to remove.

My suggestion -- try it on your hood and then assess to see if you want to take it out across the rest of the paint. It *will* deepen and darken the look but, here's the trick -- APPLY IN ULTRA THIN COATS!!!!!


Also, qadsan's assessment on streaking or a 'smeary' look is dead-on. But, like he mentioned, it tends to fade with the application of your LSP.

Ahh yes -- and you can thank California (US EPA Region 9) specifically for the removal of many products that high VOC content. While not all of the products that were snubbed from the Meguiar's line (including nearly all the old D-line products) were high VOC, many were and were snubbed because of the overly stringent air regulations -- hence, the reason I now have like 8 tins of #16. LOL!

 

Again I do appreciate all the help and guidance. I may sound like a broken recored, but just know there would have been no way on God's green earth I would have attempted this without all of your overwhelming support. I can't begin to thank you all enough. Also my kudos to F150online Forums for running a top of the line web-site.

That said, I didn't get to work the hood today like I intended to do. Now the weather has become way to cold for any such attempt, unless.

RockPick, I believe you mentioned the temps need to be in the 60-80* range for paint detailing?

Also I was wondering (for future reference) if I can use the above foam pads on a rotary/high speed buffer? Once I get used to using the PC, I may get brave and try using the high speed on my older truck. At least I view it as a good practice vehicle. Dodge trucks have a wide range of contours that could quite conceivably turn me into, "master buffer."

 

55+ is ideal. I've worked down around 45 a couple of times within a garage...

Dry times are typically what are affected the most.

Don't know about the pads -- never used that flavor.

 

Yep, they'll work very well on a rotary. They're already self centered, you can't mess up the balance by having the pad slightly off set. You'll also find these pads last longer on the rotary than with the d/a. I also use a rotary to spin dry my pads after I wash them. The only thing you'll need to make these pads work on a rotary is the rotary Adapter that Edge offers, which can be found through any Edge dealer and even on eBay. The adapter works on most rotarys (i.e. Makita, DeWalt, Hitachi, Porter Cable, etc). Edge also makes pads in 4" and 9.5" and you can quickly interchange any of these sizes, but I would not recommend using a pad larger than 6.5" on the PC. The rotary is a different story.

 

Thanks buddy.

So the PC quick release connector I have won't work on my high speed buffer? Dang! I thought I could just screw it on the same way as the PC.

I have a Sears Craftsman HS buffer--an old timer, don't make em like they used to, boat anchor. And it is super fast. For that reason, I'm a little scared of it, and not from the sense of burning the paint, but burning a hole clean through the sheet metal. That's why I was wondering about the foam pads. I thought this beast could quite conceivably rip the pad apart from centrifugal force alone.

I've been giving more thought to the 4" pads which really makes more sense from the indisposition to motion or, in my case, less exertion per correction. :o

Any recommends/deals out there for the 4" pads qadsan? Adams again?

 

If you want to stick with the Edge system, then get the Edge 4" pads. They'll fit either the PC or rotary as long as you have their adapter on it. CCS also makes nice 4" pads called spot buff pads. Excel detail offers nice thick 4" pads in their Erasure Turbo series. Cyclo also offers 4" pads. My favorite 4" pads that I've used so far have been the Erasure Turbo pads, but I haven't tried the CCS or the Edge in 4" yet. Take your pick cause they're all good. I'm going try a couple sets of the Edge 4" pads in not too long because I'm getting low on 4" Cyclo and Erasure pads, but those CCS pads are also quite appealing.

 

Okie dokie.....Thank you very much. Since it doesn't seem to make that much of difference, I think I'll just get the edge pads.

Honestly I've been looking all over for the Edge 4" pads. With all the help you've already given me I'm embarrassed to ask for a link. I dunno what else to do though. The only 4" ones I can come up with are the Cyclo pads.

If you are ever in Mishawaka, Indiana, dinner is on me. RockPick won't let me buy him dinner. He waits till he's back home, then tells me he was in town.

 

The company buys my dinner when I'm there... You know where I eat when I'm there -- we've had this discussion previously.

 

Those are the them. They work fine on a D/A, or a Rotary or on a Cyclo.

www.edgepads.com is the web site for the company who makes these pads. They also made the pads you got from Adams pads just as they now make pads for Cyclo. You won't find the 4" pads advertised on the Edge web site, but they're definitely the company who makes them. They also make these pads for other companies as well (i.e. Presta, etc). You can get these 4" pads directly from Cyclo, but make sure you're getting their Edge pads and not the traditional velco backed pad that Cyclo also sells unless that's what you want. You can get these 4" Edge pads from Autogeek or many other places. Use google or froogle to find your best price or your nearest dealer, etc.

I'll keep you in mind if I'm ever in that area. Thanks

 

qadsan,

My line of thinking is using the 4" pads with the PC. From what I've been reading the 4" pads, while smaller, do more. Now I understand the concept of the Cyclo DA much better. A very nice machine.

I think I can use the 6" for polish and wax. I was looking at the orange in the Cyclo. But I dunno for sure. I'll follow your lead.

Yellow Double-sided Cutting Pad
The yellow cutting pad is intended for more aggressive swirl and scratch removal. It is made of dense foam and will work well with compounds and advanced swirl removers. This pad is comparable to our Wolfgang™ yellow cutting pad.

Orange Double-sided Light Cutting Pad
The orange pad is the all-around swirl remover, polisher, and paint deoxidizer. Made of high density foam, this pad will correct most mild to moderate paint imperfections and polish metal and chrome.

Green Double-sided Polishing Pad
The green pad is more aggressive than the white pad. It has a mild cut for gentle polishing. Use your favorite polish or pre-wax cleaner to remove light oxidation and bring out a bright, glossy shine.


Green/White Double-sided Polishing Pad
Polish the paint to a glossy shine and then flip the pad to apply a wax or sealant. This pad combines the Green Polishing Foam and the White Finishing Foam into one time-saving pad.


White Double-sided Finishing Pad
The white pad is Cyclo’s softest pad. It is intended for final buffing and wax application. It will render a glossy shine without polishing. This pad has no cut.