This is probably a ridiculous question for experts in their field, but I'm still curios to know.

Is it possible to achieve same results using terry cloth or microfiber bonnets VS. foam pads and a Porter Cable DA, (e.g.) using, say, Scratch-X? Or a cleaner/wax like #6 or even #83? What would the potential outcome be?

My line of thinking is, since the bonnet fabric itself is non-abrasive, this would allow more of a (no pun) buffer zone, allowing for a more aggressive application at the outset. Again, I'm probably in apples and oranges territory here.

 

I wouldn't use a machine with S-X. It tends to gum/gunk up under the power of a DA. As for the #83 or similar, you'd get more aggressive results with microfiber bonnets. Foam will be better for lighter work. (But I would think that it would fall apart quicker...I dunno, I only have a wool bonnet and 4 MF bonnets for mine.)

 

Indeed the question goes against the norm. Cloth VS. foam.

I guess maybe a better question would be. Can a terry cloth or MFB towel be used instead of a foam pad for certain situations? (e.g.) using the Megs "Deep Crystal" products.

Although I'm relatively new here I've never read if anybody else has tried that. I'm not sure how cost effective it would be either. I imagine foam would be cheaper to use in the long run, depending how many applications one would get out of foam VS. cloth. Just curios is all, really.

 

Yes, MF's can be used in place of foam, but not always vice versa. MF can apply waxes, polishes, remove light to medium swirls, and remove the compounding product. Foam is really only good for applying waxes and polishes. I think you're better off with Microfiber bonnets.

The Deep crystal system is a GREAT line for the availibility and $$$; however, I have never used the 1st step with the DA, so I can't tell you how it'll perform.What I can tell you is that you'll be needing at least 3 MF bonnets. I am not a fan of terry cloth, as it raises more potential for swirling. Also, after my bad experience when trying to find out ust how much can be done with a DA, I will never remove waxes or polishes with the DA again. The pads really gunk up quickly, so you're better off with a stack of (clean) MF towels for the removal process.

Mostly, it's a personal decision, but I think the industry is leaning towards optimizing MF products to do the same jobs as traditional products, only better. (ie; I'd go MF, as they offer many properties unmatched by terry cloth or foam.)

G'Luck. If this doesn't make sense, let me know...I'l decrypt it for you--it's early, and I don't make sense when it's early...

 

No, no, not any confusion at all f-150sport03. You did an admirable jod with your explanations, considering I was thinking on those same lines.

I believe I'm going to give the bonnets a try first. I mean I'm not out anything really, I need to use them anyway. I have a rotary buffer, but that thing and myself do not get along very well, especially on the sides (vertical) of the vehicle. It's way to heavy anymore, at least for this old fart.

My truck is still very new, so I presume I can use the Deep Crystal 5 step method without any problems. And it is available anywhere. I also understand DC works excellent on black paint and darker colors. I've also read Meg's Color-X and the #26 high tech yellow wax combo, works well on black paint. I would think if said works well on black? It would work well on any color.

Thanks.

 

I'm not a fan of bonnets, except for using suede bonnets on a Cyclo. I know some people like them, but I don't care for them. I either use foam or wool pads, depending on the task at hand. I know some people remove wax with the PC / bonnet combo, but I find it much faster to remove by hand. I've tried various bonnets throughout the years and I've seen a number of them scratch / swirl the finish, so make sure to fully test your bonnets on a small area first to make sure they aren't causing scratches before you use them on the rest of the paint.

Same things with MF towels. Some will scratch the finish more than others, so test them out on a small area before using them. Always use as little pressure as possible to minimize the chance of inducing scratches, marring, etc. And always wash your new MF's before their first use because they can contain abrasives from various sources (manufacturing, handling, packaging, transportation, etc).

I believe there's a new ScratchX that's supposed to be formulated for use with the PC, but I haven't tried that version yet. I have at least a half dozen tubes of the older version of ScratchX on hand and while you can successfully use it with a PC if you're careful, it's all too easy for it to get gummy. #83 can also be difficult to work with a PC, but it can be done if properly used. #80 is very friendly for use with the PC and its very versatile.

 

qadsan, you were just the expert I needed for this thread. I'm sure the foam pads are the right application. However, I wasn't sure if foam would always be a necessity. Reading how the bonnets would be non-abrasive, that threw me a curve. I'm also sure once I use this PC I'll have a better idea what to expect. Lousy weather here, I can't do anything in the cold.

The more I educate myself on this subject, the more I understand that the foam would be better. However, I can't base anything on experience. And I do appreciate the walk through.