Today's Detail - Volvo S60 2.4T - 56k Beware!
Looks good RP as usual. I could just imagine the shiney donut tire. For some reason I can see a glazed donut.
toolmaann, I usually put more time into my frame and wheel wells than the rest of the vehicle.
Around here mud is always on the road from coal trucks hauling coal and it can ruin the under side of a new vehicle in a few trips driving. I always start by pulling my wheels and tires off then spray the fender wells, frame & axle down with a cleaner/degreaser then spray it all down with a pressure washer. Wash the back side of the wheel and tire then put it back on and after you wash the rest of the vehicle just dress the fender wells like you would a tire.
Originally Posted by toolmaann
I'm ashamed to admit that I've always considered wheel wells a lost cause when detailing. I find them hard to reach, too grungy to worry about, and not sure I have the right tools to address...
Around here mud is always on the road from coal trucks hauling coal and it can ruin the under side of a new vehicle in a few trips driving. I always start by pulling my wheels and tires off then spray the fender wells, frame & axle down with a cleaner/degreaser then spray it all down with a pressure washer. Wash the back side of the wheel and tire then put it back on and after you wash the rest of the vehicle just dress the fender wells like you would a tire.
Originally Posted by toolmaann
I'm ashamed to admit that I've always considered wheel wells a lost cause when detailing. I find them hard to reach, too grungy to worry about, and not sure I have the right tools to address...
Can you give us a quick lesson?... Tips or tricks?
Thanks.
PS: I have a bottle of "Perfect-it" sitting on shelf, but have only used it as a spot fix for areas that need an aggressive polishing (small areas, by hand). Is this a new 3M product that you are using?... My bottle must be at least 5 years old.
BTW, great job on the Volvo... That blue is a very attractive shade.
Can you give us a quick lesson?... Tips or tricks?
Thanks.
PS: I have a bottle of "Perfect-it" sitting on shelf, but have only used it as a spot fix for areas that need an aggressive polishing (small areas, by hand). Is this a new 3M product that you are using?... My bottle must be at least 5 years old.
BTW, great job on the Volvo... That blue is a very attractive shade.
For that reason, I like to use a nice low-caustic cleaner like Citri-Gel on the tires along with a nylon bristled brush. I will keep the brush off of the wheels at all times as it *will* scratch the finish on the wheel if you're not careful. I'll then rinse the tire.
The wheels will be the VERY last thing that I address from a cleaning standpoint. I use an older sponge that I can work in and out of the spokes of the wheel. In fact, I wash as far inside of the wheel through the spokes as possible. THe more 'clean' you see as you look into a wheel, the better. Again, I'm just using the wash water and keeping the 'grunge' sponge as clean as possible while using it.
As for Perfect-It... no, it's an old product. Very old in fact I believe. The Perfect-It 3000 series is the 'new' stuff that is VOC compliant and such... at least I think it is the new stuff.
Thanks for the kudos.
Looks good RP ..
I like your wheel method .. I use the same method on the front side, but I use the Meg's Wheel brush on the back side since I am not worried about minor scratching, and it keeps me from trashing my wheel sponge..
having 20's on the truck is noce, because I can get in behind the wheels to clean them without having to pull them off ..
I like your wheel method .. I use the same method on the front side, but I use the Meg's Wheel brush on the back side since I am not worried about minor scratching, and it keeps me from trashing my wheel sponge..
having 20's on the truck is noce, because I can get in behind the wheels to clean them without having to pull them off ..
Thanks guys... this one was a rewarding detail to do honestly.
Also, I should retract an earlier statement said somewhere here on the boards that I hadn't found an instance where I felt like I needed the aggressive clay -- this car was the only exception. Maybe I would've marred the finish a bit with a more aggressive bar but, by the same token, it may have cut my clay time down...
I have since found out that the car has been in the body shop three times (all rear end collisions -- two of them were within 2 months). My hunch is that her shop was very poor on their painting techniques and that the vast majority of the problems that I removed was a combo of overspray and also of just general 'stuck on' crud (as a lot of it was brown -- ie: tar or rail dust probably).
Oh well... it's done. I had a good time with it.
Also, I should retract an earlier statement said somewhere here on the boards that I hadn't found an instance where I felt like I needed the aggressive clay -- this car was the only exception. Maybe I would've marred the finish a bit with a more aggressive bar but, by the same token, it may have cut my clay time down...
I have since found out that the car has been in the body shop three times (all rear end collisions -- two of them were within 2 months). My hunch is that her shop was very poor on their painting techniques and that the vast majority of the problems that I removed was a combo of overspray and also of just general 'stuck on' crud (as a lot of it was brown -- ie: tar or rail dust probably).
Oh well... it's done. I had a good time with it.


