So this weekend I decided to go the whole 9 and I washed, clayed, and started to scratch-x.... started on the roof and my experience with the scratch x wasn't fun.... I know according to the label it is supposed to be applied and removed by hand. Well I had a helluva time getting it off. Did I apply too thick? in the wrong manner? I used a microfiber applicator to apply and a microfiber towel to remove. Any advice is appreciated... Rock or anyone else. It rained today otherwise I would have posted some pics. Wax was just one coat of NXT, I was running out of daylight.

 

I've never really had a problem with it. How long did you leave it on.

I don't leave it on long, just let it dry and take it off.

I'm sure RP or someone else can chime in.

 

I let it dry to a haze but had to rub the crap out of it to get it off

 

I only had a slight problem when it was hot in the sun but I make sure its in the shade before I use it.

 

That could be it.... there really is no break from the sun or heat here in west tx.....

 

Sounds like your problem was two-fold to me...

1. Heat. A bad item to have when you're utilizing just about any car care product. Heat will bake the product on and cause the oils and such that are in the product (which actually help in removing it) to 'flash' off. In a nutshell, you're applying a layer of clay all the way across your paint -- hence, the reason it's a booger to remove.

2. Too thick. No way to know here without having watched you apply but, I bet it was too thick. You only need a VERY VERY VERY thin coat. Further, Scratch-X isn't an 'apply it and let it dry to the paint' type of product like a wax typically is... It's more along the lines of "apply to a small area, work the product as recommended, then remove -- then move to the next area".

I hope that helps a little bit. Let us know...

RP

 

Don't let it dry .. when Meg's first released the product, the directions said to let it dry .. that was a misprint/mistake, and they have since changed/corrected the directions .. there is no benefit to letting it dry, as it's not its purpose to form any type of protective barrier.

if it does dry on you .. use a clean MF and squirt a little bit of Quik Detailer on it .. it will come right off ..

and listen to RP on how to apply it ..

 

I've never found it to be all that effective to be honest. I think my expectations are too high for it.

 

Me2

 

I have found it to be very effective, if used correctly, and with the right expectations ..


I posted a couple of after photos in a different thread with some results using ScratchX


https://www.f150online.com/forums/sh...light=scratchx

 

Well I expect ScratchX to do more than remove swirl marks. Heck my cleaner products do that. Again my expectations are just too high.

I have some more abrassive stuff that I ordered that I am going to use when I get back from my offroading trip.

 

what are you going to try ?

 

Not sure I understand the question?

 

what product(s) are you going to use ?

 

From autodetailingsolution.com


Medium-Cut Cleaner is a moderately abrasive cleaner that removes medium defects, including swirls, water spots and water sanding marks. Diminishing Abrasives™ cut quickly, then reduce to a polishing rouge, while Buffered Abrasive™ action lubricates the finish to prevent scratching.



For machine removal of stubborn paint defects Professional detail shops rely on Mirror Glaze Fine-Cut Cleaner as the best answer for removing light oxidation, swirls, scratches and hard water spots. Its special formula of Buffered Abrasives™ turns into a gentle buffing rouge, giving you a professional finish that's ready for polishing and protecting. For use by hand, orbital, DA polisher or rotary buffer.