I've buffed and polished my truck before but I prefered to do it by hand (I didn't have a high quality porter cable or dewalt...go figure). I recently got a job @ the detail dept. and offered to do that since none of the other detailers are trained (I'm not either, but it's not rocket science and my results were pretty nice I must say). Anyways, I'd like to hear a simple recipe or formula to really bring out a car. Keep in mind it can't take me 6 hours a car, I will only be doing this to the bmw 745i's, jag's (maybe), range rovers, etc. They're going to see what I have tomorrow morning and I'd like something that doesn't look the same as a good wash. I wouldn't mind grabbing my own products and bringing them in if it means I can move up (only been there 3 days). I own the newer NXT, turtle's polishing, rubbing compound and carnauba wax, among others.

Please let me know of a 2 or 3 step process thats fairly simple and is not going to be a minute' change in appearance, an example of what I'm looking for would be; "clay bar, carnauba, then NXT". I need this help quick (by tomorrow morning), hopefully one of you detail wiz's will be able to help me out, I know you're out there. If one of the processes is not foolproof (can look worse instead of better if not done right), then please tell me the correct way.

Thanks so much and I'll let you know how it goes.

 

Well, for starters a GOOD claying is an absolute essential step. I do not know your dealership's policies or facilities, but I assume you have a "wash bay" with spot-free water. If you really want to save time and make it look and FEEL great...take the car in there, start with a VERY thorough TOP to bottom rinse. Follow with your good soap wash, and BEFORE rinsing (unless the heat/sun are causing spots) clay it while it is still soaped. This works great because the soapy water acts like a lubricant instead of having to re-spray detailing spray. Also, when you are done you can rinse it all off and proceed to dry, and immediately wax.

this way you won't have to leave the bay, clay it, take it back for a quick rinse, dry, and then wax.

After that, at a busy dealership you won't have time for more than a single coat of wax. I also suggest treating the crap out of the tires immediately after the wash bay. then it has some time to soak in and dry. Also, spray the wheel wells with tire dressing to get them a nice and shiney black.

Um, a razor with window cleaner and a towel followed by steel wool is great for the windows to get sticker glue off, and that's about it. Oh, and whenever you "take a vehicle up" bring a CLEAN towel with to wipe off any runn-off or water spots etc.

Good luck!

 

Awesome advice bro, I wasn't aware you had to spray anything to keep the clay bar moving in the first place. Any other tips on this method, I don't think we have a spot free rinse and it's upwards of 100 in direct sunlight where we rinse. We do have a wash bay on the other side of the dealership (might have spot free rinse).

 

Oh damn, they have to have spot free somewhere. Most dealers have a mobile truck with pressure washers that fills up with spot free water daily and runs around rinsing the lot. At the dealer I worked at they had 2 guys that specifically di that every single day...

and for sure you will need to work in the shade, even waxing in the sun doesn't work well because it's too hot for the wax to properly bond.

and lube is ESSENTIAL for clay barring. Heh, I can't imagine it without it! You can use normal window cleaner or instant detailer, or hot soapy water as a lube in a pinch and they will all work fine. Just get down real close and you can see if you need to keep working the area- or move on. Claybars often require some good elbow grease to REALLY clean the surface 100%.

good luck!

 

if you have never run a high speed buffer they can burn the paint on ridges and corners if not done corect. also you need to be very carefull when buffing that you do not put swirel marks in the paint due to the wrong compound or a dirty buffing wheel. you may want to get a old hood from teh body show and try to learn on it first and then go from there to learn.

 

the correct answer is that there is not a single method that will work in all instances, but I understand what you are trying to accomplish. If it was me, and I had to do it in an assembly line type environment, I would use variations of the following process.

Wash
Clay
Meg's ColorX (if the paint wasn't pristine)
NXT Paste, or Mother's Carnuba
dress wheels, wheel wells, and all outside rubber/plastic.
glass

I would also grab a good plastic polish, and use it when necessary on the headlights and taillights.

 

I'm on my moto q so, bear with me through the typos - mind you, I'm on vacation....

The advice that you have already recieved is very good - namely Gip's. No vehicle is exactly the same as the previous. It is mportant to remember that as thourghly assess the paint on each vehicle each vehicle before moving forward to do anything.

Now, is this something that you really want? It is a repeated motion of alot of the same stuff day in and day out. You'll deal with the sales guys frequently because they will be breathing down your neck to get their sale out the door for delivery and so on. Additionally, you run the risk of loosing interest in your own stuff because it is now a job...I've gone through this to a certain extent in that I don't enjoy detailing y own stuff as much as I do my client's vehicles... Just something else to think about.

Beyond that, remember that technique, above and beyond products, is what will make or break any detail job. There's no golden bullet - there's no paint condition that is exactly the same as the last... Simple things like the two bucket system, washing from top to bottom, using clean/dedicated mitts for certain zones on the vehicle, and yreating it like your own vehicle when detailing it will help you to excel.

That has to be the most I've EVER typed on qwerty keyboard...

-RP-

 

If I don't have time for clay is it really going to be noticeable? And gip, I'm glad you understand where I'm trying to get. I actually was sent home early today due to low business (I am being told this is very rare, they sent home many others as well). Good, because now I have another day to do this. I will use a good mix of high and low speeds and won't focus on anything specific, a burn is going to be harder to achieve this way. I've buffed before but not with a true hi-speed. What is the best way to apply the wax, by hand? Should I smear it on the vehicle first? I've seen the "Million dollar wax jobs" video and that man used his bare hands, I doubt we're capable of scratching the paint but dirt would be my main concern. Anyways, if there is a special applicator or way you choose to apply it, let me know. Especially if you look real professional doing so, lol. I can pull that off well, and I'm not short in the common sense dept so I'll pick up anything I didn't already know how to do, quick.

Lumadar, I think you're right. There is a small truck that has a bunch of crap in the back, a spray nozzle is one of them. I think that may be the mobile wash truck, I'm usually in the detail shop. There is also a washbay I told you about and that might be the spotfree rinse. If they don't have one, I'll figure a way to put in a polite request (probably too early to be requesting things but I don't mind). And the claying process is fairly simple being you just move it around the paint with lube, filling in, smoothing out, right. I will try the soap method if I can get away with soap in the garage, it dries extremely fast in the heat out here. After claying I'll wash it again.

I have thurs/fri off so on Saturday I'll do the deed, and in the meantime practice on my truck claying and what not. It's impossible to impress anyone with my paint so I won't have much to brag about, but who knows...I might be able to remove the swirls and light scratches if God likes me. Whats the best method to remove light scratches, it won't take a ton to impress these guys but the owner is a picky...we'll leave it at that. I'll definitely let you guys know how it goes, keep the information coming.

RP, you using a dvorak at home? Always wanted to learn on one of those, supposed to be far superior than qwerty. RP, I'm hoping they'll just realize I'm a bad mother f'er (cause I am) and am able to pick up on anything, then move up to sales, maybe I'm too ambitious . I don't like detailing, it's starting off at the bottom with a rewardless job. As soon as you're done they take the pretty thing away from you and give you a dirty one. I do think if I get too much better than the others they wont let me leave the damn detail dept either so who knows how the qwarky ford guys think. I say it's starting at the bottom because the sales guys come out of their air conditioned quarters to bust the lead detailers chops if he misses a spot, who do they think they are. The guys' a very good guy too, he's like a sweet old man you'd rather help than hurt, but they do it. I talk to him about it and he argues it doesn't bother him any, he just focuses on his job. I'm taking the man's job when he leaves to go take care of his mother.

 

One thing for sure I would be careful about waxing a hot surface. I squirted some liquid wax once onto my hot Scirroco hood and it permanetly stained the hood where the wax landed.

You would mostly use fine polishes and carnuba wax. The polish to remove very light surface oxidation ect when needed and then the wax to protect the finish.

Most Rubbing Compund is usually pretty abrasive and I would be damn careful about using it.

These people have high dollar vehicles and they are going to hire someone without extensive experience to detail them? The minimum they should do is start you as an apprentice under someone who knows what they are doing!

I'd make sure that you have no personal liability for damaging thier vehicles.

Someone burns the paint off the angles with a buffer, on a high dollar vehicle, and it ain't gonna be a cheap fix.

 

I understand your concerns Dr, but when the owners son is running over motorized pressurewashers with a 745i I think he has other things to worry about, over myself and a buffer. I'm not going to screw anything up but I'll be sure to let you know if I do. Thanks for the tip about the heat, I've applied it in heat with no adverse effects yet but I'll stop doing so just in case. You didn't leave it there for any good amount of time did you? I will not start with the beamers, they won't let me and nor would I choose to. As I said before it's not rocket science and as long as you use common sense it's doubtful you'll do any irrecoverable damage, but thats why I'm asking for your feedback. Is there any big do's and dont's with a hi-speed buffer (i.e. don't concentrate on one area, don't apply in direct heat, clay with lube, etc).

 

This may sound like I'm being an @ss, but I'm not & I don't mean it that way. Hell, maybe I shouldn't say this at all, but here goes.....

If you don't know how to clay (or that you needed to lube clay), are you sure you should take a job as a detailer?

 

Don't worry about it, you made it clear you meant no harm...none taken. That said, nobody their clays except for one guy that I know of. I don't see how there is a ton involved in claying and everyone has to learn to detail right? I've at least had experience on my truck, minus the claying process.

 

You can wax in the heat but you have to be careful. As for the buffer I have not used them much but I've seen the results of burned off paint. (I was a dealer for about 7 years and an Enthusiast for 30+ years)

If you want to sell cars I suggest you start by reading up on it on the web. Get an idea of the business. Then wear some decent clothes when you go for an interview. Not a suit but maybe a sport coat or a nice shirt, slacks, and a tie. Of course they will want to know about your previous experience but attitude also counts and if you do your homework you will have a general idea about the business before you go in.

Most bigger dealerships will have inhouse sales training anyway. I would say the top 20% of the sales people probably make 60-70% of the money. There is a high turn over rate for those that can't cut it. Which may be good for you as they will need to be replaced when they quit or get fired.

Try it out and see if you like it.

 

Im not so sure about claying a vehicle after a wash without rinsing the vehicle first. You will still have dirt on the vehicle in with the suds...This will still mar the paint. Rinse the vehicle first to remove all the dirt/suds. Then you can mix up a new bucket of water w/suds and use it for your lubricant or better yet take a spray bottle and put about a teaspoon or so of your car wash soap in it and mix with water..this will provide enough lube to clay a car....

Also, to do a thourough job on a detail it will take you 6 hours to do it right...That is the bad thing about dealerships...their attitude is get'm in and out...I will be willing to bet that most dealerships use the same ole water for multiple vehicles..They use the same mit...hopefully it is a mit and not a brush to wash with..that means that if they washed a truck that had mud and such then that will get imbedded in the mitt and be transferred to the next car therefore creating more swirls for you to get rid of......Dealerships don't care about the level of detail...they would rather you use a glaze that temporarily fills in the swirl marks long enough to get it sold. From what they pay they would still be getting a good deal even if it took all day to do one car..$10 an hour for 8 hour job...What I could do in 8 hours on a car would cost well over $80......All this is JMO of course..but we all know how dealerships operate...When I ordered my truck...I gave specific instructions not to wash it or I wouldn't take delivery of it....This was just washing and I didn't trust them...As RP said...you might not enjoy it when it becomes a job...I think you would enjoy it if it was appreciated, but a dealership doesn't appreciate these types of things...They create more swirls/holograms for someone else to correct...Attention to detail is not what goes on at a dealership...

 

You are very right about the dealerships, on their own cars they're picky but anyone elses and it's a crapshoot. I've washed 100k jags, bmw 745's/645's, our Ford GT, however this job is very unrewarding/thankless...hardly ever a thank you, ****ty pay ($8/hr), never get to rest...even the sorry jobs we do are worth more than 8 dollars an hour. I've done concrete construction and I was happy with the under the table pay, but it takes a toll on your body (hands, back). This job is rediculous, a guy just paid $1300 to get his truck a "Prestige" detail job, as soon as I heard that I thought what an idiot. We don't even buff these vehicles, we clean them (every little nook and cranny) and then this walmart Prestige bottles of protectant (leather, paint, etc)...If he knew this he'd be pissed, the other detailers try to say it's "better" than wax, they have no idea. I wish I was buffing the vehicles and bringing back that shine, but a lot of these are in a certain shape which would be impossible to bring that new shine back without wetsanding or buffing (I've never seen buffing take out a scratch in my short experience using one...maybe someone can prove me wrong). Anwyays, my point is a dealership is not the place to go for a professional job. Now if they'd allow me to take a paying customers car, I'd make it worth the 1300...well as best I could. I don't think any detail job is worth that. There is a very reputable detailer in a nearby city who does wonderful work, wetsands, buffs, clays, the whole 9 and would charge me only about $250 for the entire truck. I'm probably making no sense as I'm watching tv. Let me know what you think about this $1300 "prestige" detail job...I feel like an idiot just being part of this crime.

Good question, how do you get rid of waterspots on the paint...I can get a windshield cleaner than hell and have gotten pretty good at that but I've been unsuccessful with stubborn waterspots on the paint.